Eagle

???? Pulling the wipers away from the windshield has no effect on those tabs.

There was an article in today's newspaper about texting while driving becoming a near epidemic. I had never even considered that. It's bad enough when people yak while driving (aside from it being illegal in this state), but ... TEXTING? Gimme a break, people! Just drive the damned car.

Do as you must, but I believe you will come to regret the decision. You would be much better off with less lift and quality parts than trying to get a mega-lift by cheaping out across the board. My '88 MJ had a 4" Trailmaster lift in it when I bought it. Back when it was installed, the Trailmaster was one of the only lift kits available for the MJ and it as considered a "quality" lift. I HATED it. It rode hard (rear AAL). The height was completely wrong. The axle was off center -- I had to buy an adjustable track bar to correct that. And at 4" of lift with 31" tires I wasn't really getting much of anywhere I couldn't go with my stock XJ on 30s. After a couple or three years of self-punishment, I put it back to stock height and I've been VERY happy with that decision. Are you aware that you can run 31x10.50s on a stock MJ with NO lift? Going up 4-1/2" to "clear" 31s is a waste of time and resources. Go with the budget boost (coil spacers and rear shackles) for about 2" to make the tires look right for the truck and just drive it.

New HEAVY DUTY perches are available through the Mopar Performance Catalog for about $12/pair. If BLHTAZ can't find the part number, I still have a printed copy of the catalog somewhere and I can look it up. They are MUCH better than anything Rusty's will be selling. At 4-1/2" you'll need control arms. Preferably both upper and lower, and adjustable would be better than fixed. You will need an adjustable track bar. You will also need bump stop extenders. And, of course, you're going to need new shocks on all four corners.

It probably will not decrease the start time. It usually makes the difference between starting or ... not. You aren't listening. You can NOT decrease the start time with a Renix. Don't waste time and energy trying to "fix" something that's an inherent part of the system.

10-4 It was exactly that kind of issue that led the factory to issue the TSB about "indexing" the distributor.

"In the Archives" and "Not Currently on display"... more than certainly means NO WAY IN HELL are we going to get any pictures of it... SW2 No, no ... "Not currently on display" means the ordinary mortals who pay their money at the gate and walk in the door don't see it. The deal is to make a formal contact with the museum as a "journalist," representing the world-famous Comanche Club forum (and, of course, by extension the International MJ Preservation Society -- of which they won't have heard, but it sounds impressive as aitch-eee-double hockey sticks) and specifically ask to be allowed to come see that vehicle in the "archives" in order to do a web-based feature story on it. Do some advance work, and you might be able to get JP Magazine to express an interest in running the story, in which case you could then tell the museum that it's a feature for JP Magazine.

Well, I know the kit exists. I can dredge up the part number, but Brent (BLHTAZ) can probably find it faster. The deal is that (supposedly) the original wiring harness was long enough and the wire small enough that as the circuit degraded with age & time, the CPS signal to the ECU got weaker. So the factory came out with a retrofit harness that's basically two wires, direct from the CPS connector under the hood directly through the firewall and straight into the ECU. Mine are all 87s or 88s that have the C101 connector, so this retrofit kit is highly recommended for them (and has been installed in the two I drive regularly). I don't know if the factory recommends it for the mid-89 and newer Renix models that don't have the C101 connector. Brent?

Does anyone here live near the Chrysler museum? If so, I wonder if they would be willing to allow a representative of The Comanche Club to photograph the thing ... for OUR archives, if not for theirs.

i started questioning it when it took that long and my dad was curious of why it did as well. i've driven cars older than that truck and they started up like a brand new car. so i thought it was odd. It is a peculiarity of the Renix system. I don't understand the specifics, but the Renix system doesn't "learn" any settings from driving. Every start is a "clean boot" for the system, and it needs a number of engine revolutions to check and be sure that everything is synchronized before it'll actually fire up. There is no way you will EVER get a Renix system to fire the instant you turn the key. Just accept it -- it ain't gonna happen.

You "fix" the light by unplugging the timer box. But as Pete wrote, the timer is not a tester. The only way to test your oxygen sensor is to hook the truck up to a sniffer and see if it's running rich. The O2 sensor is supposed to be replaced every 75,000 miles. The conservative approach when buying a used truck is to assume it's due and replace it. If it improves your fuel economy by a couple of MPG, at today's gas prices the new one will pay for itself quickly.

It's a '91 -- does it have a front axle disconnect? The last year for the disconnect in the XJ was 1990, and I always thought the Comanche was the same. So if it has a disconnect, there is a possibility that the front axle isn't original to the truck. Nonetheless, you could put all four wheels up on jackstands so no tires are touching the ground. Start engine, shift transfer case into 4WD and the front disconnect will engage. Turn off engine and the disconnect should remain connected. There's no spring in there -- it'll stay connected until the vacuum sitch sees you're back in 2WD and pulls the shift fork the other way.

No, you cannot tell by looking. The accelerator pedal cable leads to a "bellcrank" linkage that's down low on the left (driver's) side of the engine. There's a vertical rod that comes up from that bellcrank to the upper end that operates the arm on the throttle body. That lower bellcrank can get rusted and nasty, which results in the throttle sometimes not returning to the idle position. It has happened to me twice. You can't see it -- it doesn't look like there's anything wrong. But after spraying liberally with PB Blaster and working the linkage some, my idle went back to normal. That's not the only cause of a high idle, of course. The other ... and more likely ... cause is the idle air controller (IAC), which has already been mentioned to you.

I can't think of a good reason for a previous owner to have a 4WD truck with no front drive shaft -- unless he swapped one of the axles and wanted to be certain he wouldn't accidently put it into 4WD and break something. If the front axle is original and un-tampered with, there should be a tag with the gear ratio. The rear axle probably will not have a ratio tag, so you'll need to resort to other methods to determine that ratio. Let us know.

It would be more useful to add more weight, until you get the frame to sit on the bump stops. Then check to be sure there is still SOME clearance (don't need much, but enough to be sure the yoke isn't slammed into the tailshaft housing).

The fact there was no front driveshaft is what we call a "clue." Have you verified that the front and rear axles have the same gear ratio? If not (which is what I suspect will be the case), they will be fighting each other in 4WD.

Errr ... no. I confess. I'm Photoshop challenged.

The Schraeder valve can be used to bleed off fuel pressure. Keep in mind, I wrote "fuel" pressure. If the line has been pressurized, you're not letting out air, you're squirting gasoline. You can put an absorbant rag there to catch it, or try to direct it into a container. Yes, it's probably more controllable than disconnecting a pressurized hose at the fuel filter underneath. The post with which I took issue earlier today referred to using the Scraeder valve to bleed off 'air" -- after having been trying to start a truck that isn't cooperating. That's a good way to spray gasoline around, and gasoline squirting unexpectedly has a way of seeking out anything hot or glowing and starting fires. I wasn't suggesting that the Scraeder valve should not be used as intended. I just wanted to cauthion that it should be used as intended, and not carelessly by people who don't understand what's supposed to come out of it.

Before you take it apart, check it more carefully. The two hoses attach to metal tubes that penetrate the mounting flange. Many of us have found that the weld (or braze) where the tubes go through the flange cracks, and that's where the leak is. I found out the hard way -- I replaced my tank with a new one, used a new locking ring and O-ring, went to the gas station ... and dropped several dollars worth of gasloline onto the pavement before I realized there was anything wrong.

That method has failed me. I've rounded off a couple of Torx bits that way, and snapped one. Sears only provides a lifetime warranty on their Craftsman brand tools. I bought my bit set at Sears, but it's a Lisle brand. "So sorry, Charlie."

By all means, one must appease the gods of fire ...

No, you may NOT be good. You NEED some gap because the driveshaft is at an angle. When the suspension compresses, the angle flattens out and the distance between the tailshaft and the rear axle is reduced. You need enough clearance for the slip yoke to ... slip ... into the tailshaft to take up that change in distance. If you don't have enough gap to allow the axle to compress to the bump stops, you risk breaking things.

If you can get to the U.S.S. Constitution, it's worthwhile. But it ain't near your hotel. While in Boston, at least once you should dine at "Legal Seafood," the Boston area's best seafood restaurant. There are a few around, and the clam chowder is to die for. Who is "we"? If you'll have kids along, or if "we" is you and your significant other and you like a bit of fun, look into the Boston Duck Tour. They run out of the lobby of the Prudential Center, which shouldn't be far from your hotel. It's a fairly conventional bus tour around the historic center of Boston -- except that the buses are old WW2 amphibious landing craft, and at one point in the tour they drive into the Charles River and show you a view that none of the other tours can match. The historic center of the city is Boston Common. It's a big park, basically, but the historic New England cities and towns all grew up around a village "green," so it's more than just a park. And the actual Cheers is right near the Common. Fanueil Hall marketplace is the old Customs House complex, converted into trendy shops and nosh joints. It doesn't do much for me but my wife enjoyed it when we visited Boston last year. And if you're into baseball, don't forget Fenwick Park, one of the last of the old baseball stadiums, steeped in baseball history. [Oops - never mind -- just re-read your post] On a Friday or Saturday evening, duck across the Charles River to Cambridge and hang out around Harvard Square. In the summer it's a great street scene, with musicians on many of the corners (and from various corners of the world). If you look closely, while walking around Harvard Square you can see the windows of the infamous "Dewey Cheat'em & Howe" law firm made famous by the Car Talk guys (the Tappet Brothers). Click & Clack hail from Cambridge and that's where their show is produced.

I've never used the petcock. It's in an awkward to access place and I'm paranoid it'll snap off. Pull the lower hose.