Eagle

Those are vacuum reservoir tanks. The ones in your picture are the type with two chambers, typically for vehicles with cruise control. That type we sometimes refer to as the "blimp." The ones for XJs and MJs without cruise are round, about the size of a softball, and have only one chamber. The purpose is to maintain vacuum for the HVAC control flappers when engine vacuum drops -- like when going up long upgrades and/or pulling a heavy load. They are normally mounted behind the front bumper on the right-hand side.

It has to be one or the other -- the hose or the slave cylinder. I've experienced both. PITA but nothing fatal.

The horn relay should be inside the cab, I believe up over the driver's left foot, or in the kick panel beside the driver's left foot.

The hazard blinkers SHOULD work with the ignition off. The turn signals should not.

So that's center of hub to lower edge of flare, right? I assume this is for 4x4's? So, a full 3" of rake up front in stock position. No, he asked for the measurement on a 2WD. THe 4WD MJ is 21-1/2 in the rear.

'88 Cherokee and '88 Comanche. The fan does NOT run with the ignition off.

Nope. The factory t'stat only has the hole at 12:00

I believe Clayton's Offroad has (or used to have) a kit for that swap. Is the diff on hte corrct (left) side on the '77 axles? Earlier big Cherokees were on the right, and I don't remember what year they changed.

Correct

Correction: 1-5-3-6-2-4 it IS

17-1/2 front 20-1/2 rear

Reporting as ordered, Sir! American: We use two series of threads, "coarse" and "fine". From a shank diameter of 1/4" and larger, the first number is the shank diameter and the second number is the number of threads per inch. As in: 1/4-24 is a 1/4" bolt with 24 threads per inch. That's a coarse thread. 1/4-32 is a 1/4" bolt with 32 threads per inch (closer together). That's a fine thread. Below 1/4" they go by numbered sizes, but they still also go by thread pitch. As in: 12-24 (Coarse) 12-32 (Fine) Metric threads are also listed by shank diameter, but the second part of their listing is NOT the number of threads per (ahem) millimeter, but rather the "pitch -- the distance between two threads. So a nut I was just looking for, as an example, was an M6x1.0. That means the shank diameter is 6 mm and the distance between threads is 1.0 mm. ----------------------------------- Then we have grades. In American (SAE - Society of Automotive Engineers) parlance, we normally encounter Grade 2 bolts, which have no marking on the hex head; Grade 5, which have three hash marks on the head; and Grade 8, which have six hash marks on the head. Grade 5 is stronger than Grade 2, and Grade 8 is stronger than Grade 5. In metric, there are also grades: 8.8, 10.9, and 12.9. Metric bolts will usually have the grade written on the head as a number. I strongly suggest that y'all bookmark the following link. The Nutty Company has a lot of good technical data on fasteners on their web site, and they also sell to individuals in small quantities (unlike some industrial supply places, that can get that odd-ball bolt you need three of -- but only if you buy a case of 5,000.) http://www.nutty.com/index.shtml

I agree, you're probably seeing the size designation. Typically, in American/SAE terminology the smallest diameter bolts or screws specific by shank diameter are 1/4". Anything small is a number, with #12 being pretty close to 1/4", #10 being a little smaller, and progressing down in size as the numbers get smaller. Be sure you're looking for the correct thing, though. Many of the bolts and screws on the MJ are metric. Those are also designated by a number, but preceded by an 'M'. The number is the shank diameter in millimeters. For example, the studs on the backing plates for the fender flares need an M5 nut. (Try to find them!)

Oh, no ... he actually shot himself through the foot. It has been well documented. He was subsequently disciplined by the DEA and transferred out of undercover work (since he blew his cover sky high), and then he sued the agency for intentionally trying to embarrass him. I haven't heard how (or if) the lawsuit was settled. CW perhaps knows more about Glock "fowtays" than I do, but it would appear that Agent "I am the only one in this room professional enough ..." messed up the clearing sequence. To clear a semi-automatic handgun, you have to drop the magazine out of the pistol, then you pull the slide back to eject the cartridge (the "round") that's in the chamber. Some people go into a mental reversal. They pull the slide back, eject the round, look inside and see an empty chamber, and then let the slide close. And THEN they drop the magazine. Oops. There was a much more serious case about the same time in which a veteran, highly experienced police firearms instructor did the same thing before teaching a class. Except that instead of shooting himself in the foot, he pointed the gun at a student (after all, it was empty) and pulled the trigger. The student was killed. Guns are lethal, and you cannot lose sight of that for a second. There are rules for firearms safety. If ALL the rules are followed, there is sufficient overlap that probably a momentary lapse with one won't have fatal consequences. But it's best to not have the lapse.

Brakes are good. +1 on "under"

30 bucks is a lot less than 80 bucks.

That's been around for awhile. Aside from the obvious breakdowns of normal firearm safety on many levels, that guy was a total jerk beyond that. Problems: 1. Loaded gun in a school -- after saying it was unloaded. He didn't know how to check the chamber 2. Poor trigger discipline. Finger should not have been on the trigger 3. He was supposed to be an undercover DEA agent. I can't think of many ways more effective at blowing your cover than giving a lecture at a public school wearing a tee shirt that identifies you as a DEA agent. Total maroon.

My '88 leaks on the driver's side -- but only when it rains. I adjusted the door, tweaked the weatherstripping, and it still leaks. It's coming in through the firewall, near the fuse panel. But I haven't been able to pinpoint the location, so I can't get it stopped. Your problem *MAY* not be the door at all.

Yes, you got it right. Take a look at the radiator cap. On the inside, is there a metal disc under the gasket that's slightly loose? There should be, and that's what allows coolant to flow back from your overflow bottle if you use one. But the overflow bottle has to be set up so the hose either goes into the bottom of the bottle, or extends down to below the fluid level if it goes in through the cap. What happens is this: With the new metal tank filled completely, when the system heats up the coolant expands a little, and any air trapped in the system expands a lot. This forces some of the coolant in the system out through the radiator cap and into the overflow bottle. ALL modern vehicles with "open" systems work that way today. I haven't seen a factory non-recovery system since the 60s or early 70s. If the recovery bottle has the end of the tube below the fluid level, and if the radiator cap has the little flapper disc, once you shut the engine off and it starts to cool down, the coolant (and any air) starts to contract again. That creates a slight vacuum. At this point, the vacuum pulls that little disc open and sucks coolant back from the overflow bottle like a siphon. That's the way they are designed to work. Once the system is fully "burped" it's a constant cycle -- the level of coolant in the overflow rises when hot and drops when cold, but stays in the same range. When you have air trapped, such as after first refilling the radiator, it may take a few cycles. Each cycle will push out more of the entrapped air, and each time that happens the air will be replaced by pulling coolant out of the recovery bottle when it cools down. Keep an eye on the level in the recovery bottle to be sure it is always about 1/3 full when cold, and that the end of the tube from the pressure tank is covered by the fluid level. Here: http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... +burp+fill Read post #4, but keep in mind that the reference to half-full was because that describes how to burp the OEM plastic bottle. For the new type (either the Moroso or this nifty, custom-made job) you eventually want the tank to be filled right to the neck, and then have additional coolant in the overflow bottle. Do NOT run that tank with the overflow hose just dripping on the floor. You will lose coolant every time you run the engine.

Can't compare to a yard in upstate NY. A few years ago, my buddy Erich called up all excited because he found a yard with two (count 'em, TWO) XJ Dana 44 rear axles. He needed one, and for the price I was ready to buy the other one. So he called back, confirmed and re-confirmed that they were really dana 44 axles, told them to go ahead and pull them, and we hitched up my trailer and headed off. I don't remember just how many miles or hours it was to get there. It was NOT "next door." Got there, and they wouldn't let us inspect the goods. Had to pay first. "Are you absolutely CERTAIN these are Jeep Cherokee Dana 44 axles?" "Oh, yes, no question about it." So we paid, they gave us the magic piece of paper that would allow us to drive through the gate and back up to the loading dock ... where we found (naturally) two Dana 35 axles. It took us about 45 minutes of arguing before they would acknowledge that they had no clue what the difference was and didn't even know there had ever been an optional axle in a Cherokee. Then it took another half hour to get our money back. Yeah, I just LOVE junkyards.

I stole this photo from the coolant recovery bottle thread. We're talking (I think) about the little cylinder thingie sticking up out of the back of the valve cover. It performs the function of a PCV but I don't know if that's the right name for this one.

We have a 4 banger '88 MJ and a 4 banger '89 XJ sitting here and both have that coolant bottle... I know you based that statement on the photo above, but just stating that they were used in several years/models. Hmmm ... maybe they used that air box through 1990, then, and standardized when they switched over to the Chysler ignition/injection in '91. My bad. Nonetheless, that hood prop pegs the vehicle in the photo as an 86 or 87.

Also, as I hope you are aware, the spring perches on an XJ rear axle don't match up to the MJ chassis. The MJ is spring-under-axle, the XJ is spring over. Even if you plan to lift by doing a spring-over conversion, the spacing on the XJ percehes isn't right and will have to be adjusted.

That one is fuel injected, so it's probably an '86 or maybe an '87. Can't be an '88 with that hood prop.

I don't know about recently, but in the past Rusty's was also famous for providing tracking numbers without shipping the product.