Eagle

No, you cannot. There are two ways to build a stroker out of the 4.0L engine. One is to use the 258/4.2L crank with the matching 258/4.2L rods. That gets the piston-to-deck height close to correct, but because of minor differences, it actually puts a stock (or stock oversize replacement) piston slightly too close to the head, resulting in high compression and ping. The usual "cure" for that is a cam with more overlap to bleed off some of the excess compression pressure. The other approach is to use the stroker crank with the 4.0L connecting rods. If you think about it, you'll quickly realize that the longer stroke with the same rods will put the piston above the top of the block at TDC. The stroker engines that use the 4.0L rods (which are stronger than the 258 rods) all use custom pistons with the wrist pin set higher in the piston so as to drop it lower in the bore at TDC. Neither approach will be easy for you if you're trying for a quick cure on the oil pressure. I'd suggest just dropping the pan and replacing the main bearings and rear main seal, then closing it up and keep on driving while you collect the parts and the $$$ to build a real stroker.

Yes, I'm asking about an "OBD-I" scanner for the 91 thru 95 Jeep. I know the Renix doesn't store codes and you need a $3,000+ Snap-On scanner to read those. I thought you were saying that you know Auto Zone carries an affordable OBD scanner for Jeep, but now it sounds like you're saying they don't. A few posts above, you wrote:

Has anyone ever tried using rattle can clear over the OLD paint? The Colorado Red on my '88 is all burned out, with lots of white around the edges and flat in the middle of large panels like the hood and roof. That's because the clearcoat has burned off. But I notice that the red looks nice and shiny red when it rains. I've been thinking about just giving it a light sanding and shooting it with clear. What are my chances it might come out better than it now rather than worse?

There are no points. It's an electronic ignition. When was the oxygen sensor last replaced?

How long did you let it sit with plain water in it? If only a day or two, you only have surface rust. If a week or mmore, you really should close everything up (use the old water pump), run it with some fast flush in it, then flush everything out ... again. Then do NOT let it sit. Antifreeze is also anti-rust. You can't leave an engine with plain water in it. It will rust, very quickly. Yes, there are freeze plugs on both sides of the engine, as well as on the back. Chances of punching them out and replacing them with the engine in the truck? Small. Some are easy to access. Others are impossible.

That still sounds like you're describing OBD-II scanners. I bought mine at Auto Zone, for $79. It's OBD-II only. OBD (or "OBD-I") was a "non-standard standard," meaning each manufacturer had their own codes and their own connector. I'd love to find an affordanble "OBD-I" scanner that'll fir the Jeep connector but I don't think it exists.

The 242 does not have a viscous coupling, it mas a mechanical differential. JT, "CommandTrac" is the 231, "SelecTrac" is the 242.

That truck has been repainted. Or otherwise fiddled with. Look at the dashboard in the interior picture. The instrument cluster is an idiot light cluster. That only came on the base models, but that truck has painted flares and a matching lower panel. I don't think there was any model that came with accent-colored flares that had idiot lights. It also has a 3-spoke Sport steering wheel and "hockey stick" armrests, which doesn't match up with idiot lights. If you're seriously interested in that truck, I'd take a VERY hard look at it, up close and personal, before committing to buy it.

Really? WHERE? I have only seen OBD-II scanners in an affordable price range. The older ODD scanners I've seen were all obscenely expensive.

The '93s had OBD didn't they? If you put in the entire '93 wiring harness you must have an OBD connector. Do you know anyone who has an OBD-I scanner you can hook up and see if it's throwing any codes?

Those are vacuum reservoir tanks. The ones in your picture are the type with two chambers, typically for vehicles with cruise control. That type we sometimes refer to as the "blimp." The ones for XJs and MJs without cruise are round, about the size of a softball, and have only one chamber. The purpose is to maintain vacuum for the HVAC control flappers when engine vacuum drops -- like when going up long upgrades and/or pulling a heavy load. They are normally mounted behind the front bumper on the right-hand side.

It has to be one or the other -- the hose or the slave cylinder. I've experienced both. PITA but nothing fatal.

The horn relay should be inside the cab, I believe up over the driver's left foot, or in the kick panel beside the driver's left foot.

The hazard blinkers SHOULD work with the ignition off. The turn signals should not.

So that's center of hub to lower edge of flare, right? I assume this is for 4x4's? So, a full 3" of rake up front in stock position. No, he asked for the measurement on a 2WD. THe 4WD MJ is 21-1/2 in the rear.

'88 Cherokee and '88 Comanche. The fan does NOT run with the ignition off.

Nope. The factory t'stat only has the hole at 12:00

I believe Clayton's Offroad has (or used to have) a kit for that swap. Is the diff on hte corrct (left) side on the '77 axles? Earlier big Cherokees were on the right, and I don't remember what year they changed.

Correct

Correction: 1-5-3-6-2-4 it IS

17-1/2 front 20-1/2 rear

Reporting as ordered, Sir! American: We use two series of threads, "coarse" and "fine". From a shank diameter of 1/4" and larger, the first number is the shank diameter and the second number is the number of threads per inch. As in: 1/4-24 is a 1/4" bolt with 24 threads per inch. That's a coarse thread. 1/4-32 is a 1/4" bolt with 32 threads per inch (closer together). That's a fine thread. Below 1/4" they go by numbered sizes, but they still also go by thread pitch. As in: 12-24 (Coarse) 12-32 (Fine) Metric threads are also listed by shank diameter, but the second part of their listing is NOT the number of threads per (ahem) millimeter, but rather the "pitch -- the distance between two threads. So a nut I was just looking for, as an example, was an M6x1.0. That means the shank diameter is 6 mm and the distance between threads is 1.0 mm. ----------------------------------- Then we have grades. In American (SAE - Society of Automotive Engineers) parlance, we normally encounter Grade 2 bolts, which have no marking on the hex head; Grade 5, which have three hash marks on the head; and Grade 8, which have six hash marks on the head. Grade 5 is stronger than Grade 2, and Grade 8 is stronger than Grade 5. In metric, there are also grades: 8.8, 10.9, and 12.9. Metric bolts will usually have the grade written on the head as a number. I strongly suggest that y'all bookmark the following link. The Nutty Company has a lot of good technical data on fasteners on their web site, and they also sell to individuals in small quantities (unlike some industrial supply places, that can get that odd-ball bolt you need three of -- but only if you buy a case of 5,000.) http://www.nutty.com/index.shtml

I agree, you're probably seeing the size designation. Typically, in American/SAE terminology the smallest diameter bolts or screws specific by shank diameter are 1/4". Anything small is a number, with #12 being pretty close to 1/4", #10 being a little smaller, and progressing down in size as the numbers get smaller. Be sure you're looking for the correct thing, though. Many of the bolts and screws on the MJ are metric. Those are also designated by a number, but preceded by an 'M'. The number is the shank diameter in millimeters. For example, the studs on the backing plates for the fender flares need an M5 nut. (Try to find them!)

Oh, no ... he actually shot himself through the foot. It has been well documented. He was subsequently disciplined by the DEA and transferred out of undercover work (since he blew his cover sky high), and then he sued the agency for intentionally trying to embarrass him. I haven't heard how (or if) the lawsuit was settled. CW perhaps knows more about Glock "fowtays" than I do, but it would appear that Agent "I am the only one in this room professional enough ..." messed up the clearing sequence. To clear a semi-automatic handgun, you have to drop the magazine out of the pistol, then you pull the slide back to eject the cartridge (the "round") that's in the chamber. Some people go into a mental reversal. They pull the slide back, eject the round, look inside and see an empty chamber, and then let the slide close. And THEN they drop the magazine. Oops. There was a much more serious case about the same time in which a veteran, highly experienced police firearms instructor did the same thing before teaching a class. Except that instead of shooting himself in the foot, he pointed the gun at a student (after all, it was empty) and pulled the trigger. The student was killed. Guns are lethal, and you cannot lose sight of that for a second. There are rules for firearms safety. If ALL the rules are followed, there is sufficient overlap that probably a momentary lapse with one won't have fatal consequences. But it's best to not have the lapse.

Brakes are good. +1 on "under"