Eagle

I'd leave it alone and drive it. Worry about which end might settle AFTER the springs have settled, not before.

First, check your state laws. Most states (and I think the Feds) require that fog lights MUST turn off when you switch to high beams. "Driving" lights MUST switch off when you switch to low beams. Trying to do it without a feed from the headlights is probably illegal.

Yes, that's the pot. According to a friend who did the swap, all the way one way is 4-cyl, all the way the other direction is 6-cyl. Just see which way it wants to turn, and turn it as far as it goes. Check result with a hand-held idle tach if you have one.

The 4.0L does not have a PCV valve. It has a CCV system, and that skinny little line (the one that always either breaks or gets clogged) is supposed to run directly from the valve cover to the intake manifold.

And this was rattle can clear, right? DupliColor?

That was yesterday. Tomorrow ... Order the hose while you're there. It's relatively cheap, and when you see the condition of the rubber section of the old one you'll know it was on borrowed time.

The Amigos are also a 6-bolt lug pattern. And I believe the width is different, but I don't recall if it's narrower or wider.

Is this the infernal slave? If so, I've never heard of one fail by leaking internally -- they seem to just expode and dump fluid out the bottom of the bellhousing. Check your fuse panel. Any evidence of brake fluid migrating through the firewall on the rod and dripping on the circuit board?

And the original, Trail Master, also cannot use braces on the MJ. However, for all of them, the MJ LCA frame pockets are already reinforced, so you don't really need the optional brackets. And if you ever saw those frame gussets by themselves (I bought a set when I thought I was going to build a dedicated XJ trail beast), they are BEEFY. Just remove the control arms, bolt in the drop brackets, and reinstall the control arms. Done. Have a(nother) beer.

If anyone going to this event needs any SMALL parts I might have or be able to remove from two junker XJs, send me a PM with what you're looking for and I'll see what I have. No large body parts. I'll be in the XJ, most likely, so I'd prefer not to try to haul anything that won't fit inside.

Lift does not (CANnot) affect camber. But lift does change the toe-in, which can make it look like the camber has changed.

Also, a True Trac IS a carrier, so you don't need an open carrier if you're going that route. Last I knew, a True Trac was in the $350 to $370 range. For about $100 less you can get a Dana Trac-Lok, which is the same clutch-type limited slip the factory used. Not as aggressive as a True Trac and requires friction modifier in the gear oil, but still better than an open axle. The Trac-Lok is also a complete carrier, so again you would not need an open carrier if you buy it.

I stumbled onto a better solution (for me, anyway). I was surfing to buy a couple more of the memory card reader I have, to use with a couple of notebook computers, and the place that had the best price on the reader also had a micro SD card with adapter for $5.99 -- that's a LOT cheaper than Wal-Mart. For that price I ordered one. Thanks for all the suggestions

Thanks, Chico, but this phone uses a Micro SD. The ones at Wal-Mart come with two adapters, one for Mini SD and one for "standard SD, so if I get it at least I'll be able to stick in my card reader.

Clogged catalytic converter will rob power

That cupholder is an add-on. My dealer sells them for $12 but I don't think it's a Jeep part. TAZ, does your shop sell them? I think Quadratec does -- or did.

Hmmm ... http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/N ... Suspension Looks like an adapter to convert a standard upper ball joint into an adjustable ball joint.

Your idea of correct is different from mine. The other possible way to make the adjustment is with the Napa camber adjusting kit. Like CWLONGSHOT, I have never heard of a NAPA camber adjusting kit for the XJ/MJ. What is it, how does it work, and can you provide a part number? I'd be interested in checking it out.

Charger plugs into the bottom, just like the photo in LW's post. Is that both ends of the USB cable? I just figured that was the power cable because that's where my charger plugs in. I had no idea it was a dual purpose port. Doesn't even mention that in the instructions.

The cable is of no use if there isn't a port into which to plug it. I've examined the phone yet again, as well as finding an instruction book for an LG 8100 camera phone on the Internet (very similar model), and I cannot find any evidence that there's a port. I may be forced to buy the micro SD card.

Which of the two trucks in your signature is this for? If you already have gauges, you won't have to change any sensors. But the speedo connection is different on the 84 thru 87 XJs and MJs than on the 88 thru 90. And starting in 91 the speedo is electric, so you can't use anything newer than 90. Best to find one with the same type speedo connection as your truck has now. Of course, you could swap your speedo into the "new" cluster to keep the mileage accurate. I don't remember if the two types of speedo will interchange into the "other" style of cluster.

Pins where? Where the CPS plugs into the chassis harness? Remember, I just installed a new CPS and the bypass harness directly to the ECU. I still have the standard connector between the CPS itself and the bypass harness, but the signal now does not go through the chassis harness. And the connector is brand new on both sides.

Yeah man thats the thing, the nut is turning the ball joint inside the track bar.. I'll work it out, I just hope that makes her drive better instead of something else.... Put a jack directly under the tie rod end and that "should" push the taper into the bracket hard enough to hold it from spinning while you remove the nut. Remember that there's suppoesed to be a cotter pin through the stud and castle nut. I assume you either removed that already or it may have been AWOL. If the latter, that may explain the problem.

Brent, I'm sorry but I have to disagree with you. Depending on the front suspension, caster angle and pinion angle may be related, but they are not the same. IF the front axle is a solid axle, like on an XJ or MJ, changing the caster angle will also change the pinion angle -- which is why vehicles with big lifts run into death wobble problems because they can't get enough caster without killing the front driveshaft u-joints -- but they aren't the same thing at all. Moreover, the camber on an XJ or MJ is supposed to be zero (plus or minus 1/2 degree). With the specified caster angle 7 to 8 degrees, even if the camber is at plus or minus 1/2 degree rather than the ideal zero, that one degree of range in the caster isn't going to affect the camber by enough to even measure it. The camber is not considered adjustable, and trying to adjust it by mucking around with the caster is an incorrect approach. The only "adjustment" possible or correct is the use of offset ball joints. What actually changes more than camber when you change the caster is the toe-in, and that's more likely what caused the tire problems you mentioned.

It's an LG model UX8300. Yes, I agree, it is counterintuitive that there doesn't seem to be a way to transfer pictures. That's why I think I'm overlooking something that should be obvious. Where does that USB cable plug into yours?