Eagle

Might I suggest that some people stop insulting other people. If the children can't behave, the adults get irritated. In other words -- NO NAME CALLING!

I believe that, by law, they MUST cut you a check for the work time within 24 hours of being notified of the error. If that means the president of the company has to write you a personal check and get reimbursed from the payroll department in Illinoos, so be it. The fact they do payroll remotely doesn't negate the law. Not sure if that applies to your expenses, but they should find it easier to cut one special check rather than two.

One thing to keep in mind is, you need to verify if the meter scale is linear or logarithmic. I don't know, but I have always believed that the fuel gauge, temperature gauge, and oil pressure gauge are the same instrument with different markings. Yet, if you look at the temperature gauge, the left side goes from 100 to 210 (delta = 110), while the right side goes from 210 to 280 (?) (delta = 90), in the same angular sweep. The voltage meter is also asymmetrical. Since the other three gauges are, essentially, volt meters, this leads me to believe that the sender out put is not linear so you may have some experimenting to do before you get your conversion box calibrated.

Or stub axle.

A failing O2 sensor often results in a very rich operating condition, which in turn kills catalytic converters rather quickly.

That's the computer, but you need to change it for one from a 4.0L. Don't remember for sure, but I believe the 4.0L has more wires and more pins, so you probably will need to change the entire harness between the engine and the computer. After all, the 4.0L has to fire six injectors, the 2.5L only has one.

I did the opposite of Pete. I started with an 88 Cherokee 4.0L. Around 175,000 miles or so I began to notice that the oil pressure on the highway was lower than it was when new. I had always used Pennzoil 10W40 conventional oil, and I always changed the oil at 2500 mile intervals. At the time, my brother was service manager at a BMW dealership. He mentioned one day that BMWs come through with synthetic oil, and that the factory recommends a 15,000 mile (that's not a typo) change interval. We discussed my isue, and I decided I could switch to full synthetic, and by doubling the change interval it wouldn't cost much more overall than changing the dino oil at 2500 mil intervals. I switched to Mobil-1 15W50 and my highway pil pressure came most of the way back up to where it should be. But we get some cold nights here in winter. Then a friend who is a shop forman at a VW dealer happened to mention that VW uses (or did then) Castrol synthetic as the factory oil. And Castrol offers a 5W50 formulation. So I changed to that, and that's what I run in the Cherokee -- which is now at 282,000 miles. In the 88 Comanche, which only has about 130,000 miles on it and has no oil pressure issues, I also run Castrol full synthetic, but in 10W40. Don't waste your money on synthetic blend. It's a ripoff. Like the new thing with anti-freeze: You can buy a gallon of anti-freeze for $6, or you can buy a gallon of pre-mixed 50/50 coolant for $6. A gallon of distilled water at Wal-Mart is 75 cents. You do the math.

^^^ Page 17. The 4.0L uses an idler pulley to replace the a/c compressor.

Get a set of Cherokee leaves and cut the eyes off the main leaves. Use those for your AALs. The Cherokee springs have less arch, so using the XJ main leaf will add capacity without adding a lot of lift.

See if this link works. Once we knew the date, I found the thread the hard way, so the URL doesn't include all the search parameters. The diagram (such as it is) is on the second page of the thread, toward the end. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14777&start=15

It used to be that choices in 16" were more limited than for 15" rims, and whatever tires were available for both seemed to be more expensive in the 16" flavor. With the trend toward ever-larger rimes, though, it may be that the pendulum is swinging. There is truth to the theory that smaller rims and taller tires (higher profile) protect the rims better. My brother used to be a service manager at a BWM dealership. With the extremely low profile on their more up-scale models, he said it was very common for someone to hit a pothole and wipe out a rim. Their rims ran anywhere from $400 to over $1000 -- EACH!. I don't think that's a major concern once you get up to a 70 or 75 aspect ratio. My wife's Cherokee Classic has 70-series 16" tires/wheels, and there's enough sidewall height that I don't think I could hit a pothole hard enough to bend or break the rim without bending or breaking the entire vehicle.

I'm glad you found it. I went searching for it last night and search wasn't giving me anything at all.

IIRC, the 97 XJ values are 20 (full) and 170 (empty) there is a big swing between the newer XJs and the MJs. [Mr. Spock]Fascinating, Jim.[/Mr. Spock] According to the 2000 XJ FSM, it's 20 ohms full, 270 ohms empty. So that means there are THREE permutations and combinations we have to be aware of. I hadn't gotten beyond the change on resistance and polarity between 1990 and 1991. Thanks (I think).

If this is for your '90, you have a pair of yellow diagnostic connector ports under the hood, near the relay bank on the passenger side. One of those is a feed for the tachometer. I posted a pin-out for both connectors awhile back.

Not just resistance -- that just makes the gauge slightly inaccurate, which they are anyway. The early ones go from zero to 88 ohms. The later ones have a range of 4 to 104 ohms (IIRC). Not so terrible. The real issue is that the polarity is reversed. What makes the early one read "Empty" makes the late model one read "Full." The only fix I can think of for that is to find the two wires on the gauge cluster connector that lead to the fuel gauge, and reverse them. But, since one terminal on the gauge is ground (or is it?), it is likely shared with other gauges and therefore can't be reversed. So the Plan B (which is, in reality, Plan A since I can't think of any alternatives) is to modify the cluster panel so the gauge mounts physically in the usual pace but is isolated from the printed circuit. Then hard wire the two terminals. Hornbrod -- possible?

I vaguely remember having something like that happen when I reassembled the '88 Cherokee I refurbished for my ex-GF. Starter had come out because I had to move the tranny back to replace the flex plate. When I reinstalled the starter, I managed to set them so the little skinny wire (technical term) was making contact with the big fat wire (another technical term). As soon as I hooked up the battery, it cranked -- and cranked ... and cranked. Is it possible that the wrench fused one of the wires sufficiently to melt through the insulation somewhere, allowing wires to touch that aren't supposed to? Any chance of back-feed maybe melting the ignition switch on the steering column?

The 2000 and 2001 Cherokee Classic had 16" rims, the fancier first generation Liberty used the same wheels in different colors, and some of the last of the ZJ Grand Cherokees had 16" rims. Any of those would provide the correct backspacing for you.

The injector may be gummed up and not closing when "off." The fuel system is under pressure. When you shut off the engine, the pressure may be forcing raw gas into the intake manifold. On a later 2.5L with MPFI this gas would drip directly into the cylinders, but with yours it may be getting sucked in during those few revolutions afte you shut off the ignition while the engine is shutting down. You're sure it's gasoline and not coolant?

The easy way is to undo the torx bolts that hold the door onto the hinges. Pay attention to how many shims are in each hinge, because that's the way you should start out with the new door. You may need to shift them around, though, to get an optimum fit. Remove the inner trim panel first, so you can unplug any wires that run into the door. (Probably just speaker wires, unless you have electric windows.) Have at least one large helper. Especially if you're working with a complete door that has the glass and riser mechanism installed, it will be HEAVY.

It should be easy to test the fuel pump -- run a 10-gauge wire directly from the battery to the heavy wire back at the fuel pump. There's a 3-wire connector about a foot from where the wires go into the tank. Be sure you have a decent ground on the black wire. The other skinny wire is for the fuel gauge, and the heavy wire is the fuel pump. If it pumps when hot wired, you can figure the security system had a kill circuit.

If the outer (balance) ring doesn't move forward into the fan, it moves back and wears away the front cover. Once you see the rubber coming out, it's better to replace ASAP because the potential consequences are expensive, and it's a matter of "when" will it happen, not "if" it will happen.

It's more than "thinking of a run." NAC Fest is the big annual trail event put on by the North Atlantic Chapter of NAXJA since either 2001 or 2002. We used to hold it at Paragon until Paragon was closed. It will happen, and it's a great time if you can make it. Rausch Creek isn't really all that far from southern New England. From the New Haven area it's about 4 hours (for most of you -- a bit more for Mr. Speed Limit here). Take I-84 to Scranton, then south on I-81.

Possibly. That info was taken from the original 1986 MJ factory service manual. Doesn't even have a code for the 4.0L engine or the short wheelbase models, because they weren't introduced until the following year. Hmmm ... http://www.comanchemj.1hwy.com/custom3.html "1991-1992 Coming Soon" (big help)

Anything from 86 through 94. In 95 they switched to a Chrysler column with an air bag.

That would have to be either a bad hub/bearing unit or bad ball joint(s).