Eagle

Why not? $180 isn't coffee money. I don't know Canadian law, but under U.S. law he is guilty of fraud and you could send the cops after him. If I know someone is ripping me off, I won't hesitate to ruin their life. The world doesn't need people like that.

The 2.5L has the same bell housing bolt pattern s the 2.8L so you can use the same transmission. The motor mounts are also the same. The 4.0L uses different motor mounts (but in the same location), and a different (larger) bell housing, so you would beed a complete engine/transmission/transfer case setup from the 4.0L. Also, the early firewall wasn't designed for the 4.0L, and the 2.5L/2.8L radiator isn't large enough to cool a 4.0L. Some 4.0L conversions have been done that didn't require much modification to the firewall, others report that fairly major surgery was necessary. The entire front sub-assembly that supports the radiator has to come out, and be replaced with the corresponding parts for a 4.0L radiator. In general, a much easier upgrade for a 2.8L is a GM 3.4L V8 out of a rear-wheel drive car like a Camaro. It's the same basic block as the 2.8L so it's largely a bolt-in conversion.

Wheel shimmy doesn't wear tires evenly, it results in severe "cupping" -- the tire will look like someone took a knife to it and sliced of bits of tread in a scalloped fashion around the the tire. I think your bent drag link has resulted in excessive toe-in, which typically causes wear on the outside shoulders of the tires.

In your search, since you mentioned brakes, you will need to keep in mind that there are different permutations and combinations of steering knuckles, hubs, rotors and calipers. They do NOT all interchange -- you cannot mix and match parts from different years on the same axle. I have posted the specific a few times. If you can't find it using search, I can post it again in this thread. What's the project? Are you converting something, or replacing a busted axle?

First off, is this really "death wobble," or is it just tire wear, or is it tire wear with some shimmy? With real death wobble, you CANNOT drive the vehicle because the shaking is so bad, and you have to slow down to under 5 MPH before the shaking stops. Anything less than "Oh, God, I'm gonna die RIGHT NOW!" is not "death wobble." It is named that for a reason. Wear on the outside shoulders of one or both front tires indicates too much toe-in, and a bent drag link can cause excess toe-in. Get an alignment.

Since Motion Offroad seems to get excellent customer satisfaction ratings and has pretty decent prices, AND they are active on this forum ... just what do you think some other company could be doing "better"?

I believe the YJ Wranglers had high pinion D30s, but they were leaf spring so hardly a bolt-in replacement. And they had the vacuum disconnect, with a housing that was different from that on the XJ/MJ disconnect, so I don't think it would be easy to fabricate control arm mounts. Not a good choice.

Easy. I lost a set of new tires and wheels that way when I was at college. They take off the lug nuts, yank the tires out as fast as they can, and just let the car drop into the brake drums/rotors. They may have two guys hold up the fender while a third pulls the wheel out -- it actually doesn't take all that much to keep one corner up when the weight is on the other three corners.

I can understand a Jiffy Lube joint not resetting the light. People take their vehicles to dealers and pay the extra money because the dealers are supposed to know how to work on the cars they sell. I can read an instruction manual -- if it makes sense. Which the manual for the light in my 1999 WJ did not. I took it to the dealership for the first few oil changes to ensure there would be NO questions about warranty (and I am SOOOOOO glad I did that), and I fully expected the dealership to reset the light when they changed the oil. nd they did. I only had to bytch about it once out of the several oil changes I had them do.

WHAT tailhousing? The tailhousing is on the OUTPUT end of the transfer case. We're dealing with the INPUT end. There is no tailshaft or tailshaft housing between the transmission and the transfer case. Please, everyone, let's all get on the same page here, and use the correct terminology.

Might I suggest that some people stop insulting other people. If the children can't behave, the adults get irritated. In other words -- NO NAME CALLING!

I believe that, by law, they MUST cut you a check for the work time within 24 hours of being notified of the error. If that means the president of the company has to write you a personal check and get reimbursed from the payroll department in Illinoos, so be it. The fact they do payroll remotely doesn't negate the law. Not sure if that applies to your expenses, but they should find it easier to cut one special check rather than two.

One thing to keep in mind is, you need to verify if the meter scale is linear or logarithmic. I don't know, but I have always believed that the fuel gauge, temperature gauge, and oil pressure gauge are the same instrument with different markings. Yet, if you look at the temperature gauge, the left side goes from 100 to 210 (delta = 110), while the right side goes from 210 to 280 (?) (delta = 90), in the same angular sweep. The voltage meter is also asymmetrical. Since the other three gauges are, essentially, volt meters, this leads me to believe that the sender out put is not linear so you may have some experimenting to do before you get your conversion box calibrated.

Or stub axle.

A failing O2 sensor often results in a very rich operating condition, which in turn kills catalytic converters rather quickly.

That's the computer, but you need to change it for one from a 4.0L. Don't remember for sure, but I believe the 4.0L has more wires and more pins, so you probably will need to change the entire harness between the engine and the computer. After all, the 4.0L has to fire six injectors, the 2.5L only has one.

I did the opposite of Pete. I started with an 88 Cherokee 4.0L. Around 175,000 miles or so I began to notice that the oil pressure on the highway was lower than it was when new. I had always used Pennzoil 10W40 conventional oil, and I always changed the oil at 2500 mile intervals. At the time, my brother was service manager at a BMW dealership. He mentioned one day that BMWs come through with synthetic oil, and that the factory recommends a 15,000 mile (that's not a typo) change interval. We discussed my isue, and I decided I could switch to full synthetic, and by doubling the change interval it wouldn't cost much more overall than changing the dino oil at 2500 mil intervals. I switched to Mobil-1 15W50 and my highway pil pressure came most of the way back up to where it should be. But we get some cold nights here in winter. Then a friend who is a shop forman at a VW dealer happened to mention that VW uses (or did then) Castrol synthetic as the factory oil. And Castrol offers a 5W50 formulation. So I changed to that, and that's what I run in the Cherokee -- which is now at 282,000 miles. In the 88 Comanche, which only has about 130,000 miles on it and has no oil pressure issues, I also run Castrol full synthetic, but in 10W40. Don't waste your money on synthetic blend. It's a ripoff. Like the new thing with anti-freeze: You can buy a gallon of anti-freeze for $6, or you can buy a gallon of pre-mixed 50/50 coolant for $6. A gallon of distilled water at Wal-Mart is 75 cents. You do the math.

^^^ Page 17. The 4.0L uses an idler pulley to replace the a/c compressor.

Get a set of Cherokee leaves and cut the eyes off the main leaves. Use those for your AALs. The Cherokee springs have less arch, so using the XJ main leaf will add capacity without adding a lot of lift.

See if this link works. Once we knew the date, I found the thread the hard way, so the URL doesn't include all the search parameters. The diagram (such as it is) is on the second page of the thread, toward the end. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14777&start=15

It used to be that choices in 16" were more limited than for 15" rims, and whatever tires were available for both seemed to be more expensive in the 16" flavor. With the trend toward ever-larger rimes, though, it may be that the pendulum is swinging. There is truth to the theory that smaller rims and taller tires (higher profile) protect the rims better. My brother used to be a service manager at a BWM dealership. With the extremely low profile on their more up-scale models, he said it was very common for someone to hit a pothole and wipe out a rim. Their rims ran anywhere from $400 to over $1000 -- EACH!. I don't think that's a major concern once you get up to a 70 or 75 aspect ratio. My wife's Cherokee Classic has 70-series 16" tires/wheels, and there's enough sidewall height that I don't think I could hit a pothole hard enough to bend or break the rim without bending or breaking the entire vehicle.

I'm glad you found it. I went searching for it last night and search wasn't giving me anything at all.

IIRC, the 97 XJ values are 20 (full) and 170 (empty) there is a big swing between the newer XJs and the MJs. [Mr. Spock]Fascinating, Jim.[/Mr. Spock] According to the 2000 XJ FSM, it's 20 ohms full, 270 ohms empty. So that means there are THREE permutations and combinations we have to be aware of. I hadn't gotten beyond the change on resistance and polarity between 1990 and 1991. Thanks (I think).

If this is for your '90, you have a pair of yellow diagnostic connector ports under the hood, near the relay bank on the passenger side. One of those is a feed for the tachometer. I posted a pin-out for both connectors awhile back.

Not just resistance -- that just makes the gauge slightly inaccurate, which they are anyway. The early ones go from zero to 88 ohms. The later ones have a range of 4 to 104 ohms (IIRC). Not so terrible. The real issue is that the polarity is reversed. What makes the early one read "Empty" makes the late model one read "Full." The only fix I can think of for that is to find the two wires on the gauge cluster connector that lead to the fuel gauge, and reverse them. But, since one terminal on the gauge is ground (or is it?), it is likely shared with other gauges and therefore can't be reversed. So the Plan B (which is, in reality, Plan A since I can't think of any alternatives) is to modify the cluster panel so the gauge mounts physically in the usual pace but is isolated from the printed circuit. Then hard wire the two terminals. Hornbrod -- possible?