Eagle

Possibly condesation? On a hot, muggy day, does your air conditioner leave puddles on the pavement when you park? It should. If it doesn't, the drain line is clogged and the condesate is backing up in the pelnum ... until it overflows.

Give my regards to Murphy. He and I are old friends ...

The 'T' is on the axle and is the lower end of the flex hose. You run a single line from the front distribution block to the frame in the rear, where the height sensing valve is currently located, and connect that to a new flex hose. (Yes, you can use the existing flex hose -- but it's 20 years old.) The hard line to each wheel cylinder splits off the block where the flex hose bolts onto the axle tube.

You remove the XJ bucket seats from the XJ base pedestals and bolt them to the MJ base pedestals. Just don't get early XJ buckets with the "rocking chair" tilt adjuster, or they'll be too high for use in an MJ unless you are VERY short.

No. One of those lines is a bypass line. It is normally not used; it comes into service only if/when the front brakes fail. Do NOT interconnect those two lines by removing the height sensing valve. The better approach, if you wish to remove the height sensing valve, is to remove the bypass line entirely. It's the line that comes off the front/bottom outlet on the metering block below the master cylinder. The line that normally provides your braking (through the height sensing valve) is the line that comes out the "nose" of the front metering block. Keep that one, plug the other outlet, run a new, single line from the nose directly to the flex hose at the rear axle, and you're done. BTW -- your terminology is mixed up. In the MJ, the rear, height sensing valve is the proportioning valve. The "thingie" in the front is a distribution block with an emergency bypass circuit. It is NOT a proportioning valve and provides NO proportioning function whatsoever.

Incorrect. I beg to differ. A few years ago at the NAXJA NACFest in PA, one of the guys had the plastic line in his 94 XJ melt due to the heat generated by towing another disabled Jeep out of the woods on a warm day. We went into town and bought an old, original style clutch hose with metal ends. I don't recall if he also bought an old-style master cylinder. In any event, we also bought a few miscellaneous adapter fittings, went back to the campground, and made up a conversion in the parking lot. (The parts store was about to close, so we bought more than was needed just to be reasonably sure we'd have what we might need.) The adaptation itself was easy, but getting it bled was a bear.

My '88 leaks on the driver's side and I am about 98.73% certain it has to be the fuse panel connector. I have plugged, sealed, or otherwise isolated just about every other possible source of entry and it still leaks heavily when it rains.

I don't think there is a notch for the full-time position.

How's your oxygen sensor and catalytic converter?

NoOx is not a replacement for the gasket. NoOx is one of several brands for a mineral oil-based grease or goo that's used on electocal contacts to prevent (TADA!) ... oxidation.

Fascinating ... But you have to have been partaking of hallucinogenic mushrooms to label that an SUV. The 'U' stands for "Utility," after all.

Has your hand recovered yet?

Personally, I go to Auto Zone and buy an OEM replacement from Walker. The muffler has a lifetime warranty so the one I bought six years ago is the last one I'll ever buy.

The 4-cylinder uses a 1-piece rear main seal, and requires pulling the tranny and flywheel. The 4.0L (6-cylinder) does not.

If you saw it in a Cherokee (not a GRAND Cherokee), it was swapped in. The 5.2L (nor any V8) was ever offered in the Cherokee or Comanche.

I cannot recommend driving any Jeep, even at stock height, without a sway bar. Taking a lifted XJ or MJ (or YJ or TJ) on the road without a sway bar is exercising a death wish. There are documented cases of skilled off-road drivers rolling their Jeeps on pavement at 30 MPH in an evasive maneuver because they "didn't need" a sway bar. Face it -- those bars cost the factory money. They would NOT put them there if they could possible justify leaving them off.

5-1/4" rounds for the doors, 4" round on 4x6 plates (available from Crutchfield) for the rear posts.

What do you mean by "running lights"? Are you referring to parking and taillights, or do you have a Canadian truck with daytime running lights?

What about tapping (actually, is it called "dieing"?) the remaining stud for a smaller thread size?

Well, with all respect to your father, I am probably older than he is and I KNOW that works. That's how I got a new rear main seal in my '88 Cherokee 4.0L. If he thinks it won't work, I'd like to know why he thinks it won't work.

But there's nothing deeper than 4.88 available for a Dana 30 front axle. Due to the smaller diff, any more gear would result in a pinion about the size of a Papermate pen refill. Even 4.88 isn't supported by Jeep or by Dana Spicer. To get 4.88s you have to go aftermarket.

Yes you can use the transmission and transfer case. You will have to use the flex plate and CPS that came in your vehicle, because the teeth are different between the Renix and HO flex plates, and the CPS is a different type.

My personal preferences (with a 4.0L engine -- move up to more gear with a 2.5L): Stock tires ==> 3.54 30" tires ==> 3.73 31" tires ==> 4.10 32" tires ==> 4.56 33" and larger ==> 4.88 You should not be running 34" tires with a Dana 35 axle. You won't be doing so for long.

Especially with a Renix MJ (or XJ), turn on the key and then wait until the fuel pump stops running before engaging the starter. That way, you know the fuel rail is fully pressurized.

Don - The problem showed up last summer. I let it sit all winter so I don't know what would have happened in cold weather. Pete - Nope