Eagle

"Selec-Trac" was nothing but Jeep's name for the optional 4WD system with full-time 4WD capability. For the 84-86 Cherokee, the 228/229 transfer case was "Selec-Trac." For the 87-01 Cherokee, the NP/NVG 242 was "Selec-Trac."

This is for a '91 2.5L MJ? Don't you already have 4.10 gears?

One what? Comanche gas tank? They are readily available. Auto Zone and Advance should have listings. I got a new one, with new straps, for my '87 shortbed from a local radiator shop. I bought it two years ago and IIRC I think I paid $150.

The one I was looking at had fixed yokes, not a slip yoke. It listed comanche as one of the vehicles but I had never heard of it. thats why i started this post It did have a fixed output yoke, not a slip yoke. It was available for the MJ only in 1986. In 1987 it was replaced by the 242 t-case. But it was not the Borg-Warner Quadratrac case, and was not called Quadratrac.

The 228/229 was offered in the 84-86 XJ and 86 MJ as Selec-Trac. Both of those boxes were 2WD transfer cases with the option for full-time 4WD. They are not the same thing as the old Borg-Warner Quadratrac.

Camshaft

No. A 242 is what Jeep calls Selec-Trac. It offers a 2WD position. Quadratrac is full-time 4WD, and the old ones (as I noted) did not always include a low range. There is no 2WD position for a Quadratrac transfer case.

Doors from 4-door Cherokees fit the Comanche. Preferably earlier Cherokees. Somewhere along the line they changed the height of the latch/striker. I know it's different from '97 and newer, but I don't know about 95 and 96. It sounds like you may have aftermarket variable rate springs in the front. Take a measurement from the center of a wheel hub straight up to the bottom edge of the flare. Stock height should measure 17-1/2 inches.

You must be looking at a transfer case out of an old full-size Cherokee or pickup. Quadratrac is Jeep's name for a full-time 4WD transfer case. The old ones with the passenger side drop were made by Borg-Warner. Big, very heavy, some had a low range and some did not. My old Cherokee had the low range. It was shifted by a little lever that half hid under the driver's seat. The lock function was controlled by a vacuum switch inside the glove box. The new Grand Cherokees also have an option for Quadratrac, but the current (and recent) versions are New Process/New Venture Gear units that are driver's side drop. They do not have a slip yoke eliminator.

You really should spend some time reading the many threads on this site that discuss lifting the Comanche but, to get you started, your sources are very badly in error. Cherokees have the springs over the axle, so the rear springs have a lot less native arch than a Comanche rear spring. Plus, they are 5" shorter. Using Cherokee leaves is unlikely to produce any serious lift. In fact, I think that using a Cherokee main leaf in my Comanche springs (with the eyes cut of the XJ leaves, of course) will get me extra capacity without generating any lift. Converting the MJ rear axle to put the springs over the axle is an (comparatively) easy way to lift the rear. But ... you will be lifting by the diameter of the axle tube, plus the offset of the spring perches x 2, plus the thickness of the spring pack. In general, the MINIMUM lift you'll get that way is between 5 and 5-1/2 inches. That sounds like more than you want. If you just want to level it out and get a bit of extra capacity, get a Rancho full-length add-a-leaf kit for $50 and call it good.

I think a 231 with a true neutral IS fairly common ... but not in an MJ. It is my understanding that some time in the mid-90s Chrysler changed the 231 (and the 242) to make the neutral into a true neutral that disengaged the driveline completely. The earlier ones worked as you describe ... they disengage the transfer case from the engine and transmission, but they lock the front and rear drive shafts together so they both spin while being towed.

The Grand Cherokee was introduced in 1993 (actually late 1992, as a 1993 model). The last Renix models were the 1990 model year. Unless someone did a major swap, there ain't no such critter as a Renix Grand Cherokee.

The previous owner may have grabbed the right-hand switch panel out of a Cherokee. I haven't seen an MJ yet that had any switches to the right side of the wheel. I used an XJ panel to get a couple more switches in my '88. I don't remember what they were for in the XJ, because whatever they were for I don't have. I rigged one for a broighter interior light, and the other is (at this point) a spare.

It sounds like it would be really tasty ... but it looks absolutely, grossly disgusting.

Yes, I've thought about it. For all of about 10 seconds. The fact is, Jeep (whoever "Jeep" is these days) does not currently make a single vehicle I might want to own, and in fact they don't really make a single vehicle worthy of wearing the name Jeep. It only takes 10 seconds to figure that out. End of discussion.

Block? Or head?

I believe you mean track bar instead of sway bar. Willy Right you are. Sorry, I was tired when I wrote that. I will edit my post but, of course, the quotes of the original will remain unchanged, as a permanent testimonial to my frailty.

Great. That tells us what diameter YOUR sway bar is. It doesn't provide any insight into what size HIS sway bar is. The guy asked a question because he was ready to buy parts. Your advice could cause him to buy the WRONG parts. I'm sure your intent was to be helpful but sometimes offering unfounded extrapolations is NOT helpful.

It can't be done. Your truck has a mechanical speedometer. The '94 XJ has an electronic speedometer. In addition, the polarity of the fuel gauge is reversed, so the '94 fuel gauge in your truck would show empty when the tank is full, and full when the tank is empty. You need a gauge cluster from an 87-1/2 to 90 Cherokee.

I agree with Hornbrod. The drag link and the sway bar should be parallel. The ZJ pitman arm drops the outer end of the bar 1", making it NOT parallel to the track bar. This introduces bump steer, which you don't want in a street-driven vehicle.

That photo is MUCH too small to see anythng

There is no way to KNOW definitively what diameter bar is on any XJ or MJ without measuring it. There were three or four different diameters. Buying bushings based on someone else's guess as to the diameterr bar on your vehicle is almost guaranteed to get you the wrong size bushings. Measure your bar.

I am not familiar with Z-Max. Lucas is basically a viscosity index improver (same thing as the original STP). All it does is make your oil thicker. If that's what you want -- save your money and just buy a heavier grade of oil. Since the demise of the old Pyroil oil and gasoline additive many years ago, IMHO the only additive worth considering is Marvel Mystery Oil. Whatever you do, stay away from anything that puts Teflon into your engine.

Sometimes there is no choice. When I bought my '88 MJ it had a 4" Trailmaster lift and a stock track bar. The axle end had been reloxated to a new hole that was uncomfortably close to the edge of the bracket. The stock bar was shot anyway, so I bought an adjustable and mounted it in the stock location. But ... the hole at the stock location had been badly worn into an oval shape, and there was no way the track bar was going to stay in one place. Auto tech buddies to the rescue. One of my friends from NAXJA is a VW shop foreman. Apparently around that time VW had some kind of recall or tech bulletin operation that came with a parts kit including some high-grade metric bolts and VERY thick, hardened washers of the same diameter as the track bar bolt (10mm?). And not all the parts got used in every operation, so my friend had a box full of these bolts and heavy washers. So I took the truck to his place one day and he welded one of the washers into the axle bracket over the original hole. Better than new. But it should have have been necessary. The previous owner was a teenager who must have pounded it through the woods with the track bar bolt loose.