Eagle

I hope you didn't get Cherokee springs. They aren't anywhere near the same length as Comanche leaf springs. And the Cherokee starts off as spring-over-axle and the Comanche is spring-under-axle, so there's not a lot of correlation regarding the rear springs anyway.

Blasting and painting would not be "restoring" them. The outer rim and the faces of the spokes should be polished bright. The sides of the spokes and the rough areas between the spokes should be painted a matte, medium gray. I plan to try doing one when the weather warms up a bit, using Aircraft Stripper from Auto Zone to remove the existing clear coat. This will also remove the gray between the spokes, so I'll have to repaint that, then polish the flats, then clearcoat the whole enchilada.

Yeah, with a busted frame. You're a helluva guy, FJ93, and don't ever let anyone tell you different. :chillin: Standard warranty (5 miles, 5 minutes, or out the driveway -- whichever comes first)?

An internal (or "infernal") combustion engine requires three things to operate: air, fuel, and spark. If you didn't take off the head or change out the timing chain, it is probably safe to assume that you're still getting air, so that means you're lacking either fuel or spark. Have you checked to see which? You dropped the tank to build a flatbad. Where did you ground the fuel pump? Have you confirmed that the fuel pump is running?

Now aren't you glad you didn't swap out that engine? Of course, if the replacement engine was a used long block with injectors, it probably would have "fixed" the problem. But how much less work is it to just swap injectors?

Considering the purpose, I have to wonder if it's worth spending money to replace. It isn't a "structural" part, in any way. The only purpose is to dampen vibration, and the only time that would even be a factor is when the engine is idling in neutral. Under load when driving, any vibration will be transmitted into the drive train. In fact, I have been considering removing it from one of my 4-cylinder trucks so that I can configure the front of the engine like a 6-cylinder and not have the a/c compressor obstruct the #1 spark plug.

More changing things that didn't need to be changed. What does a "distributor" do? It "distributes" the spark among the cylinders. If the distributor is sending spark to 5 out of 6, why would you think it isn't sending spark to #6 out of 6? Easy to check. Remove the spark plug wire from the #6 turret of the distributor, put in a new, known-good wire, crank the engine and see if the new wire sparks to the block. If it sparks to the block, then see if it'll make the plug spark. You may have a bad wire, or a bad plug. There really isn't anything else it can possibly be.

No, the HO started in 1991. The Chrysler steering column (with airbag) started in 1995.

It could be CPS. It could also be coil, or ignition module, overheating. Next time it happens, see if you have spark. If it's a throttle body (did you mention the year?), you should be able to see if it's squirting gas.

That "thing" is a triumph of engineering, proving conclusively that some people have more time and money than common sense. My biggest problem with it is the grille suggests that it was once a flat-fender Jeep..

Google is your friend. A search for "oxygen sensor simulator" yielded the following (plus a lot more): http://www.o2sensorsimulator.com/ http://www.bobblick.com/techref/project ... ensor.html http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/oxygen ... simulator/

I've seen those things for sale, but I can't remember where. It's been years since I saw them.

Consider a TrueTrac for the rear. It's a gear-driven limited slip. Costs just a bit more than a Trac-Lok, but doesn't require any special friction modifier additive and works much better.

The newer ones don't have an EGR valve, so that's a problem. Also, the HO heads have the ports higher than the Renix, and the ports are shaped differently. People have been able to use the later manifold, but it's a kludge at best.

Why should he have to let it be "totalled" and then have to buy it back and deal with a reinspection and a salvage title when the accident wasn't his fault? The other insurance company has no right to take his truck away from him. If the max they can pay is blue book, let 'em pay blue book and he keeps the truck. Remember, it was a rear ender. I got rear ended some years ago when plowing in my old full-size Cherokee. The other insurance company initially said they would pay to repair it. Then, when the body shop found that some additional parts were needed because Jeep had changed the design of the fuel filler when the Cherokee became the Grand Wagoneer, they balked. I reminded them that I had not asked to have my vehicle hit by their insured; that I was struck in the rear; and that I had not as yet been examined by a doctor for possible neck injuries. They paid rather promptly.

I thought those were gone in 97? Even if it does have it, wouldn't it start up for a few seconds, then die? That's what my first XJ(88) did when the resistor went out. Ya know, I have two 2000 XJs (one for me, one for my wife) and I never even looked at/for the ballast resistor. I just assumed they would have it.

I think the '01 still uses a ballast resistor, too, and that probably got broken in the crash.

Check the ground.

They are coming out of a YJ. I don't believe the YJ was ever offered with a 4-speed.

Got a photo of your engine? Can you read the build code off the passenger side? It shouldn't have a vertical oil filter, but it may be a replacement engine, or it may be a replacement oil filter adapter.

Actually, what my in-state neighbor means is DON'T lock the steering wheel. Get the truck so the road wheels are as straight ahead as possible. Turn off the engine but DO NOT engage the steering wheel lock. This way, as you make the adjustment at the drag link the steering wheel will move. If you have the steering wheel locked, adjusting the drag link will turn the road wheels and you won't really know if you've gone far enough, too far, or in the wrong direction until you drive it again.

Unless you NEED a major lift for running VERY large tires in extreme off-road conditions, I would strongly advise against doing the spring-over conversion in the rear. As noted, that has to generate at least 5 inches of lift, and usually more. Adding that much lift to the front creates all sorts of suspension issues, which translate into mega $$$ and chronic driveability issues on pavement. Considering that you can run 31x10.50 tires with NO lift, a simple 2" budget boost (coil spacers) in the front and a Rancho add-a-leaf in the rear should be all you need to keep you happy while not breaking the bank.

Right you are. The '88 oil filter is a metric thread, and the filter mounts upside down (threaded opening toward the ground). Chrysler changed to an SAE thread on the filter in 1991, and at the same time changed the filter adapter so the filter sits horizontal (threaded opening facing forward). The filters are NOT interchangeable. If you have the horizontal mount, you probably need a filter for a 1991 thru 2001 Cherokee.

Cute. If you had some way of shielding it with inert gas it would last longer. When I was too young to know better, I used to cut open dead D-cell batteries (the standard ones, not alkalines -- which hadn't been invented back then anyway) and hook two of the center electrodes (which were nothing but carbon rods) to the two leads of a lamp cord. Plug it in, ALMOST touch the ends of the two rods together, and it made a carbon arc lamp. It's a miracle I didn't burn the house down and/or electrocute myself.

There is no pump. The vacuum reservoir is either a round ball (about softball size) if you don't have cruise control, or an elongated shape like a very fat sausage if you do have cruise, that should be mounted inside the front bumper on the passenger side. The vacuum lines to it are routed under the battery tray area. Then they go back to the firewall, where there's a sort of junction block, and then there's a line that goes to the transfer case to a vacuum switch that controls the axle disconnect.