Eagle

http://www.quadratec.com/advisor/jeep_o ... _brake.php See parts # 16 thru 20. For 1984 to 1989 only.

^^^ What he said. The '87 2.5L has ONE injector, in the throttle body. The fuel is injected into the airstream as it enters the intake maniforld. Unless you had something very strange affecting the intake valve, there is no way that one cylinder on a TBI engine can get leaned out.

Not hardly! You can probably remember what you had for breakfast this morning.

The early hub units for the 4WD vehicles WERE serviceable. Last I knew, Quadratec still sold the individual parts. But by the time you bought the inner and out bearings, the two seals required, and I think there was one other part needed ... you were within a couple of bucks of buying a complete hub/bearing unit. And rebuilding the hubs requires a 12-ton hydraulic shop press. But, technically, the guy at O'Reilly's was correct. The later hubs (1990 and newer) are not rebuildable.

I thought TJ coils generated 2 inches LESS lift in an XJ or MJ as opposed to in a TJ.

Pete - When was the last time you looked for Cherokees in a junkyard in Germany? For that mater, when is the last time you looked for an automotive junkyard in Germany?

Apologies. I missed the fact he was asking about the late-model XJ. Mea culpa.

The 97+ door will fit but that will require relocating the striker on the door post. The '96 and older should be a direct bolt-on.

Yep. Several years ago one of the original members of NAXJA said the same thing. He then rolled his Cherokee in a city street, two blocks from home, at under 30 MPH when he had to make a sudden swerve. I think he was dodging a kid who ran out into the street, but the actual cause isn't important. What's important is that the factories don't throw metal on vehicles for no reason. It costs money, and it adds weight. If they didn't think it was absolutely necessary, you can bet it would not be there. And that's for a stock height vehicle.

What are your alignment specs?

Because the platinum tip breaks off and grenades the piston. And they don't produce any better fuel mileage than standard NGKs, so why spend the extra money?

Why would you want to do that, and what makes you classify those plugs as an "upgrade"?

The heater control are operated by vacuum, and the default position when there's a vacuum leak is defrost. The usual place for the leak is the tube or tubes leading under the battery box to the vacuum canister mounted behind the front bumper on the passenger side (variously referred to as the "softball" if you have the round one or the "blimp" if you have the oblong one).

I'm sure you could take all the latch parts out and weld up the door, but I think it would be a lot easier to get a replacement door from a junkyard. A door from any 4-door Cherokee up to 1996 should fit. You might want to look at WHY to door cracked, though. I have never heard of that happening, and the only reason I can think of is that the hinges must be sagging so the latch is supporting the weight of the door as well as holding it closed.

Okay, that at least proves that the needle on your gauge is free to move, so the consistent low pressure isn't because of a stuck needle. That's useful to know, but it means the problem is more than likely worn bearings.

Why should he swap in a new axle, and why is a non-disco "the way to go for sure? He's doing a 2" budget boost, and the truck is riding on stock tires. Sure, the non-disconnect axle (if he gets one from a late model XJ) will have bigger u-joints, but the shafts themselves will be exactly the same ... not bigger, not "better" in any way. My '88 XJ has 287,000 miles on the original front axle, with disconnect. I've run 30" and 31" tires on it, and wheeled it all over the northeast fro Maine to Rhode Island to the Mohawk Trail (Old Florida Road) in MA when that was still open, and Arizona/New Mexico. No axle problems at all. The only thing I would suggest is to do the disconnect modification to lock it permanently in the connected position. My only 4x4 failure was on city streets in a heavy snow storm, when I couldn't get up a hill because the vacuum fittings on the disconnect had deteriorated and it wouldn't slide over into the connected position.

Yes, but before you start dropping the pan, be sure that's the problem. The oil pressure SHOULD be higher at road speed than at idle, by at least 10 psi or more. It should also read quite a bit higher immediately after a cold start than after it warms up. If yours is reading a constant 20 psi, there may be another explanation. Step one is to verify that the needle on the gauge goes through the full range. Quick, crude test: * Turn key to ON (don't start the engine). Not Accessory - ON. * Remove wire from oil pressure sensor and place it somewhere so it is NOT touching any metal. You now have an open circuit. The needle should go all the way to the right (80 psi) * Ground the sender wire directly to the block. The needle should now swing all the way to the left (zero psi)

'88 Comanches didn't have PCMs. Are you referring to the ECU (Engine Control Unit, a.k.a. computer)? How's the timing?

Little door? The doors, or flappers, control air flow. If the hoses feeding the heater core are not hot, there's no coolant flowing through the heater core and that has nothing to do with doors. The flow valve is vacuum controlled, if you have a vacuum leak perhaps that's not working. Have you checked it?

Why do you think this is a lie? There are some aftermarket rear sliders available that will (sort of) fit a Comanche if you replace the entire window, but the glass for the actual factory slider hasn't been available for years.

At what engine speed are you seeing 20 psi? The factory spec is 13 psi minimum at 650 RPM idle, and 37 to 75 psi above 1300 RPM. Most XJ and MJ engines seem to idle in the 20 to 30 psi range and run about 50 psi at highway speed. If you are seeing 20 psi at idle, you're good to go. If you're seeing 20 psi while moving, when the RPMs are above 1000, that's not normal.

It doesn't matter if he has a lift or not. Centering the steering wheel is done by turning the adjusting sleeve on the drag link. It is NOT done by disconnecting anything.

No, that's not correct. The XJ and MJ used exactly the same engines, and within any range of years and engine options an XJ will be exactly the same as an XJ. I think what you're saying is that you think the 4.0L engine uses a different setup than the 2.5L engine. That may be correct, but I'd be surprised. However, I have not parked a 2.5L next to a 4.0L to compare them that carefully.

You could also be 180 degrees out of time. Remember, the crankshaft goes around twice for every one revolution of the distributor, with each cylinder coming up twice -- once for compression (which is when it fires) and again for exhaust. Let's just say that I know how easy it is to forget that, and set the distributor so it's firing on the exhaust stroke.

That small tube IS the CCV. There is no physical valve, like with a conventional PCV on many other vehicles.