Eagle

The engine has nothing to do with it. The only difference in the transfer case shifters is the length of the connecting rod between the shift handle and the bellcrank lever on the t-case. That's a function of the transmission length.

That's why the 242 also offers the Part-Time position. And the 242 mated to a limited slip diff in the rear is a terrific combination.

Several years ago I was dating a woman who lived in NJ (I'm in CT), about 3 hours drive each way. That year was a snowy winter, and it seemed like every weekend I went to visit her I had to drive down or back (or both) through a blizzard. It was Interstate highway almost all the way, but in heavy, blowing snow the plows usually can't keep up during the storm. So there would be patches of heavy or drifted snow, separated by patches of bare pavement (due to either plowing or wind). It just gets a bit old, shifting in and out of 4WD every mile or three. My vote goes to the 242, and in fact I was just talking to a friend today about using a 242 if/when I get around to converting one of the 2WD MJs to 4WD.

Pete: Drive shaft twice??? Thought it was ONE turn of the drive shaft and 3.5 wheel turns equals a 3.55 final drive? Not 2 drive shaft turns and 3.5 wheel turns equals 3.55? 3.55 to 1? Right??? Twice if you DON'T have a limited slip, 1:1 if you do have limited slip. If you DON'T have limited slip and you jack up both wheels, they'll just turn in opposite directions when you try to rotate one and you can't count anything because the driveshaft won't move. For open rears, do as Pete said: jack up ONE wheel and rotate that exactly two revolutions, counting revolutions of the driveshaft. If you have limited slip, when both rear wheels are up they both rotate in the same direction when you turn one by hand. In that case, rotate the tire one turn and count driveshaft revolutions. And you have it reversed. It's 3.xx revolutions of the driveshaft for one revolution (or two) of the tire(s).

I think most people just replace the stock sender with the tube for the mechanical gauge. If you want to retain the factory gauge too, add a short piece of brass pipe and a tee fitting.

It's VERY rare to find a ratio tag on a rear axle. It's more usual to find it on the front, but with the newest MJ now being 19 years old, most of those that once had tags probably don't have 'em today. Unless there's reason to think your truck has been changed, with the 4.0L engine the 5-speeds were 3.07 and the automatics were 3.55. 4-cylinders had more variations.

Yeah, if it's giving you problems, just lock it. As you said, if you keep vacuum to the switch, the 4x4 light will still operate.

Bel Air? Brings back memories. I was stationed at Edgeweed Arsenal a long time ago. Found a 1947 (or '46?) Hudson pickup truck at a gas station right outside of the post, on U.S. 40, bought it, and towed it home to Connecticut. Then I swapped it to a buddy (in Bel Air) for a 1954 Hudson coupe, so it went back to Bel Air. A few years later, we did another swap and the pickup came back to Connecticut.

It was not an "option." It was used in vehicles that were destined for sale at dealerships in high-altitude locations, such as Denver.

On a more serious note, this points out a fundamental difference between the male and female brain wiring. I drive either a Comanche or the old Cherokee. My wife drives the new Cherokee (which I owned before we met). Prior to the marriage, ALL my (running and registered) Jeeps had in them: [*:2ajryega]First aid kit [*:2ajryega]Surplus fiber blanket [*:2ajryega]Space blanket [*:2ajryega]Jumper cables [*:2ajryega]Two pairs of leather-palm work gloves (one pair insulated) [*:2ajryega]Spanner for the lug nuts [*:2ajryega]Spare oil [*:2ajryega]Spare coolant [*:2ajryega]Fire extinguisher [*:2ajryega]Winter jacket, in a big zip-lock bag [*:2ajryega]Roll of paper towels [*:2ajryega]Bottle of (generic) Windex [*:2ajryega]Mag-Lite [*:2ajryega]Waste basket There's probably a few things I don't recall. For the Cherokees, the emergency gear fills two plastic milk crates. The first thing my wife did when she took over the new Cherokee was remove ALL that stuff from the vehicle and stash it in the corner of the garage. Even the waste basket. Then she unwraps snacks and stuff and tosses the wrappings all over the floor -- and then wonders why the "car" looks so messy. :doh:

And anodized. What's the big deal? It's only your life you're risking. :wall:

Funny you should ask. http://www.olypen.com/craigh/heater.htm

Good point. This relates to the oxygen sensor, too. A leak at the exhaust manifold can result in the manifold sucking IN air, which makes the mixture seem lean as the exhaust stream passes the O2 sensor -- so the sensor tells the ECU to send MORE gas through the injectors. Several years ago, a guy in a Cherokee on a NAXJA-NAC trail ride managed to crack his exhaust manifold out on the trail. It was late, and getting dark, so he tried to drive it back to the trail head. Not only was he getting serial backfiring, after a short distance we popped the hood and the exhaust manifold was glowing red. So, yes ... a leaking exhaust manifold can result in backfires.

Start by telling her this. Then ask her if she is willing to go to marriage counseling with you. If she agrees, that's a good sign. Be aware, however, that marriage counseling is not a guarantee. Counseling helps both people look at the marriage objectively. Sometimes the result is that one or the other person (or both) sees more clearly that the marriage really doesn't have much of a basis. One other thing to keep in mind: Depending on what's wrong in the marriage, sometimes it's necessary to sacrifice the marriage to save the friendship. It ain't easy. And I'm probably not the best person to ask for advice. I'm currently in marriage #3. This one seems to be working but, at the beginning, I thought the first two would, also.

Yep.

I don't have the Draw-Tite, but what I DO have is a pair of MJ mounting plates for a universal aftermarket step bumper. Shoot me a PM with your smail mail address and I can trace one out for you on heavy paper and you can use it as a template. In fact, those bumper mounts are available from many of the on-line body parts places, cheap. It might work better/be easier just to buy a pair of those and whack off the ends that support the bumper.

Harbor Freight Tools sells a usable multimeter for a mere $3.99. At that price, I grabbed a couple. I keep one in the shop and one in my mobile toolbox. http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function ... 90899.html At that price, nobody has an excuse not to own a multimeter. Doesn't really matter if it's accurate to 1% over the full range -- 90 percent of automotive work doesn't need that level of accuracy. Most of what we do is "Yes, there's continuity" or "No there isn't."

Jeep.

I would start by checking that the vacuum operated flappers are all flapping on command. If they aren't in synch, they can be allowing outdoor air to bypass the heater core. Another possibility (which is somewhat contrary to having some heat in "Defrost" but no heat in other positions) is that the heater core may be clogged.

Then you need the local PLUMBING parts store, not the local auto parts store. Although 3/8" NPT isn't that unusual -- Sears will probably have it.

Here ya go. Please note this is from a book manuscript I started awhile back. It is copyrighted and in putting it here for you to view I am NOT giving you permission to reproduce or distribute it anywhere else.

Bad oxygen sensor. If it's slow to respond to changes in engine load (i.e. unburned fuel in the exhaust), when you let off the gas the mix gets rich. The O2 sensor is supposed to see that and shut down the injectors, but if it's slow responding, it allows enough unburned fuel into the exhaust to cause backfiring.

There's a fuse -- did you check that?

Are you sure the engine isn't seized? Pull the spark plugs and see if you can turn the engine by hand with a breaker bar on the nut at the front of the crankshaft.

Factory spec for oil pressure (with a warm engine) is 13 psi minimum at idle, and 37 to 75 psi above 1600 RPM. In general, most decent Jeep engines seem to idle between 20 and 30 psi and run 45 to 55 psi at high way speed (around 2000 RPM). Yours sounds a bit on the low side, but not fatal. With the front axle disconnect, it's not unusual for there to be some delay unlocking, but several blocks is a bit extreme. I have found that, if traffic permits, unlocking is more reliable if I can stop and back up for a few feet, then go forward again.