Eagle

It's a common problem -- common enough that the factory had a reinforcement kit to fix it. There probably aren't any left in the dealer parts system by now, so we're on our own. You're right -- it's a tough weld. The factory kit added straps to increase the length of weld available to hold the hinges.

I would venture to say that calling it a common problem with Comanches is a large load of bovine excrement. The Jeep engine has cast iron heads. It is extremely unlikely that the threads are stripped. Just tighten the plug and drive. IIRC the torque is 25 foot pounds, but after 50+ years of working on AMC and Jeep engines I just tighten to "right about there" and it's done.

Scratch the first one, too. You do NOT want a Grand Cherokee "Dana 44." The center housing is aluminum, not cast iron. The housing warps if you look at it cross-eyed. And the internals are not standard Dana 44, so your upgrade and traction device options are severely limited. You're better off with a Dana 35. If you can't find a Dana 44, get a 97+ Chrysler 8-1/4 out of an XJ.

Sure it does. A TJ axle ... shaft.

Leak? You mean, like oily fumes creeping out from under the flange? The problem isn't the oil filler cap, the problem is excessive blow-by pressurizing the crankcase more than the PCV system can suck out.

Ya know -- if the tires needed weights on the outside to balance them, they can't be balanced if you put all the weight on the inside. It simply isn't possible. Who performed this (alleged) balance job for you? I hope you didn't PAY for it.

I don't remember if mine had three seat belts or not, but it would be easy enough to score a rear belt out of an XJ and add it.

A Comanche is a compact pickup. The bench seat is barely wide enough for two full-size adults, and MAYBE a small child. If you're carpooling, you are NOT going to carry three adults, and the third seatbelt is the least of the issues.

:agree:

That's why we tell people NOT to buy rebuilts. I'll gladly pay the factory price for a new one if I don't have to change it every three or four months.

There are no 87-89-1/2 AX-15s. The BA 10/5 was the 5-speed tranny behind the 4.0L from 1987 through the first half of 1989. The AX-15 was a mid-year production change in the 1989 model run.

The VIN will tell you if it's a base model, Pioneer, Chief, etc. And that will tell you if the gauges were stock. The base model had idiot lights, the Pioneer and Chief had gauges (although the tachomoeter was an available option, not standard). The base model also had the black "station wagon" steering wheel, and the Pioneer and Chief had the 3-spoke sport wheel.

The same.

About as bad as any small pickup -- which means pretty bad. Some weight in the bed (forward of or directly over the rear axle) helps. A limited slip differential helps a lot.

The problem is that most sensors available are either variable-resistance senders rather than switches, or don't switch on and off at the correct temperature. Of course, if you're willing to settle for controlling the aux fan manually, with a switch on the dashboard, then there's no problem.

Either your MJ is not a base model, as you described it, or a previous owner did some upgrades. That's a Pioneer of Chief steering wheel and gauge cluster with optional tach, and the mirrors at the front corners of the vent windows were not standard on the base model.

You will need motor mounts for a 4.0L from an XJ or MJ.

Is it possible to buy a new radiator with a spot to mount the existing aux fan sensor? or to add one to an XJ radiator at a local radiator shop ? ? Somebody reported finding one with the bung. The ones I've seen (including the new style that the radiator shop got by accident when I ordered an old style radiator) did NOT have the bung. So I guess they exist, but I don't know where.

The hard part is finding a way to control the auxiliary fan, since the early system uses a sensor in the driver's side radiator tank to activate it.

Easy conversion. Put the front axle, transmission and transfer case from the donor XJ into your MJ. I'm not sure about drive shaft length -- the XJ drive shaft won't be long enough, and the MJ drive shaft might be too long so you may need to have it shortened. But the 2WD tranny has a long tailshaft, so there's a possibility the driveshaft might be okay. Save the XJ rear axle as a spare in case your D35 blow up. If nothing else, you'll have spare shafts and brake drums. BTW, the XJ Pioneer will have gauges instead of idiot lights, so you can swap the gauge cluster into your MJ, too. And the 3-spoke sport steering wheel. And the fancier "hockey stick" armrests. What does your MJ have for side-view mirrors?

The Metric Tonne package was available only on the longbed. Not sure, but I think a tow package was available on the shortbed. And I think the Eliminator was available only as a SWB.

It;s difficult to find a used pickup that even runs for under $5,000. How much do you have in your MJ,a nd how much will a junkyard 4.0L cost? Then factor in that insurance is possibly cheaper on a 20-year old truck, and taxes are certainly less than on a new truck. I'd fix it. Good excuse to go for the whole drive train from a donor and convert to 4WD.

Are you asking about a front skid plate, a transfer case skid plate, or a gas tank skid plate? And what "rod" are you referring to?

I have two or three heater blowers riding in the back of the XJ that died with their boots on. The one that's in the XJ now is nearing the last round-up, too -- lots of squeal when it first starts spiining on cold mornings. Apparently it's possible to buy just a replacement motor for these things, but ... how do you get the blower impeller off the motor shaft without breaking it into ten zillion little pieces? Has anyone done this -- successfully?

??? What different fans? You asked about the OEM auxiliary fan. We've reported that it WILL work, but your truck doesn't have the wiring harness for it so you will have to install or create a wiring harness for it. If you want to use an aftermarket fan, you'll have to do the same thing.