Eagle

I've managed to collect a set of five from various sources, and in various states of deterioration. I think they'll clean up okay, but ... Does anyone have a couple of the center caps for the turbine wheels?

Also, all XJs with Selec-Trac (the full-time 4WD system) did not have a CAD.

Looking at my '88 XJ 4-door, it appears from the outside that they'll swap from side to side, too. (Does anyone know if the left and right sides are different internally?)

... I'm looking for suggestions on how best to clean up and somewhat polish the back sides of a set of factory alloy rims. I've collected from various sources a set of five of the OEM "Turbine" rims that were factory options in the 1980s. For the fronts, I plan to use aircraft stripper to remove what's left of the clear coat, polish up the faces of the spokes and the outer rim, then spray with new clear coat. The problem is the backs. One must have been used as a spare only, because it's perfectly clean, polished, shiny, and doesn't have a spot of grease or dirt on it. The others are ... rough. Dirty, greasy, and showing signs of oxidation. I tried cleaning one with carb cleaner and a toothbrush. It took off the grease fairly well, but it didn't do anything for the discoloration and pitting. Would a flap sander be too aggressive? (Keeping in mind that the only place I could find one was Lowe's, and it's either a medium or coarse grit -- no fine or super fine available.) A steel wire brush would just chew up the aluminum, so that's not an option. Has anybody ever tried a brass or bronze brush on aluminum alloy? What else is out there that'll bring the wheels back without destroying them?

Y'all might want to bookmark this discussion: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f15/all- ... s-1151525/ I'm running a set of Grizzlies on the '88 XJ, and at one time they were the factory alloy on some XJs. They'll work fine on an MJ.

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=11693 That's the one. Thanks.

That's what sidelined my '88 MJ. I have about decided it has to be the coil and/or the ignition module ... so I'm a bit disappointed to see that those didn't help you.

There's a measurement in the MJ FSM fron the top of the axle tube to the frame rail that serves as the "standard" measurement, but I don't remember what it is. For a rough measurement, if you have the factory flares, from the center of the wheel/hub/cap/axle straight up to the bottom lip of the flare should be approximately 20-1/2 inches.

I picked up a 2.5L with auto tranny (but no transfer case) in my MJ and didn't even know it was there. Also hauled a 4.0L with 5-speed & transfer case with no problems. You're looking at maybe half the rated capacity of your MJ.

Bleeder screws? Dana 44? :huh???:

I don't believe the Metric Ton suspension is supposed to sit any higher than a standard suspension. There's no mention of a higher ride height for the MT in the FSM where they show how (and where) to measure for checking ride height. It's just supposed to add load carrying capacity.

After having one explode in a panic stop, I do NOT trust the height sensing valve. Replacements aren't available, so deleting it from the truck that suffered the failure was a no-brainer. However, I like having rear brakes, and I plan to eliminate the rear height sensing valve on each MJ as I progressively get them roadworthy.

:thumbsup: Do they make one with a dual outlet? I like the look better than just the one pipe. Yep: http://www.gibsonexhaust.com/sftmufflers.html

IMHO, the ONLY muffler that sounds better behind a Jeep 4.0L than a stock muffler is from Gibson. All the others are just obnoxiously loud.

I think Hornbrod recently posted that he runs that setup. Sorry, I don't recall what brand of muffler.

WOW! 5/16x18 -- an SAE size. I would never have expected that -- I was expecting 10mm. Thanks.

Does anyone know the bolt size and thread pitch for the upper, rear shock mount bolts in a late model XJ? Fuzzy memory isn't reliable. The one I just bought looks bad enough that I expect I will have to drill out the bolts, and I'd like to have replacements on hand.

Correct. And the transmission is an AX-4, not a BA-10/5.

4-door XJ will work. Obviously, you'll have to cut it off behind the door and splice it to the MJ cab corner.

The ground is for the pump.

It should, but I'm not 100 percent certain.

Harmonic. This is the crux of the issue. One wheel doing something screwy is either "shimmy" or "tramp," depending on what the wheel is doing. It doesn't pose a real problem (other than tire wear and beating up the tie rod end on that side) unless/until the shaking gets transferred to the opposite wheel and the two start shaking in unison, in a self-escalating harmonic. In fact, Chrysler/Jeep had to change the spring rates and the hardness of the rubber bushings in the front suspension of the export models of the 1999 Grand Cherokee because the particular combination they originally chose resulted in death wobble. And this was with brand new vehicles. All of which is to point out that there really isn't any one, single thing we can point to and say definitively "THIS IS IT!" It would be great if we could do that ... but we can't.

Your question is unclear. The '88 is a Renix -- the '91 is a Chrysler. That refers to both the ignition and the injection. Mechanically, the engines are basically the same, but the heads are different, the throttle bodies are different, and (most importantly) the entire injection and ignition setups are different and not compatible. It's not as easy as swapping ECUs -- the entire engine room wiring harness is different, and the under-dash harness is different. The Renix ECU is under the dashboard, above the driver's right foot. The Chrysler ECU is in the engine compartment, at the left front between the airbox and the inner fender. Also, the CPSs are different (to work with the different ECUs, so you also have to use the CPS and flywheel that matches the year of the ECU.

And my experience has been that the most common cause of death wobble is tire balance, followed in a distant second place by insufficient caster angle in the front suspension. I'm not sure I would say that those are the cause of DW. They are more like instigators of DW. There has to be other parts bad for these items to get DW started. Though these issues being good could make it so it never happens to begin with. No, there don't have to be other bad parts. I have experienced genuine death wobble in two vehicles. One was my then-new 1999 Grand Cherokee WJ, with (at the time) probably just over 5,000 miles on it. Everything was stock, I never took it off-road, so everything in the front end was new and tight. The death wobble kicked in when I touched the brakes lightly to control my speed going down a long down grade at about 50 to 55 MPH. The front rotors were warped (very common on the '99 WJ), and the resulting wobble in the rotors was all it took. The other was in my '88 Comanche -- after I had removed the lift and returned it to stock. Track bar was almost new, front hubs had been replaced, tie rod ends were tight. The DW kicked in at 50 MPH as I entered a long, sweeping right hand curve on a state highway. I turned around, limped home, rotated the front tires to the rear and the DW never happened again. It's tire imbalance that is the fundamental cause of death wobble. Loose parts may (or may not) play a role in allowing it to escalate. On the other hand, when the original track bar on my '88 Cherokee wore out and got loose, it was winter and I had no garage to work in, so I drove it like that for about five months. I had at least a quarter turn of free play at the steering wheel, probably closer to a third of a turn ... but not a hint of death wobble. Not ever. So a loose track bar by itself CANNOT cause death wobble. I have five months of rolling evidence to support that statement.

Keep in mind that there have been multiple different hubs used on the XJ, MJ and ZJ. They are all 5 bolt x 4-1/2" circle, but they take different rotors and fit different calipers. They are NOT all directly interchangeable.