Eagle

You have to mount the XJ seats on the MJ pedestals, because the floor pan configuration of the XJ is different from the XJ. If the XJ seats have the "rocking chair" feature, they will be too high in an MJ unless you remove the rocking chair part of the mechanism.

The toe-in (not "tow" in) angle should zero, not 1/8". That's far too much toe-in and will destroy your tires quickly. Correct. More specifically, the pinion should be parallel to the driveshaft. Since the double cardan uses up some space, the pinion should actually point slightly above the transfer case output, but pointing at it is pretty close. However, the pinion angle is changed any time you adjust caster, and the caster angle changes any time you muck with the pinion angle, so dialing in a lifted truck is always a compromise.

Or put a box-end wrench on the nut and use a pipe wrench on the shock dust cover to unsrew the stud from the nut. When replacing, put some anti-sieze on the threads and you can turn the shock tight enough by hand to compress the bushings properly.

??? Four forward plus overdrive = five speed. The early XJ/MJ AX4 4-speed did not have overdive.

Clunks are "usually" (dangerous generalization) control arm related. For the death wobble -- have the tires balanced (again). Or try just rotating front to rear, rear to front and see if anything changes. If so, then you know it's a tire balance issue.

90 is exactly the same as 87. There is no lock between driveshaft except with the lever in one of the 4wd modes. I don't feel like typing out the whole procedure from the owner's manual, but it is not necessary to keep the engine OFF. Yes, it is necessary. The Neutral position in the early 231 transfer cases disconnects the transfer case from the input shaft (the transmission, in other words) but it leaves the front and rear driveshafts locked together. If the engine is running when you shift, the front axle disconnect will engage and you will then be trying to tow a vehicle locked in part-time 4WD -- which is not conducive to directional control. We went through this same argument a year or two ago. I remember going out and jacking up my '88 to verify it.

I don't know why you think the OEM track bar is a "problem." The original on my '88 Cherokee lasted about 180,000 miles, and that included off-roading at Paragon, the New Jersey Pine Barrens, the Mohawk Trail region of western Massachusetts (Old Florida Road), and hitting some fire roads in New Mexico. On the MJ, I went with an adjustable to be able to center the axle with a 4-inch lift, but the quality of the bar wasn't any better than OEM. (In fact, it was significantly worse.) For a 2WD Mj that's going to be street driven, I don't think any track bar out there can really be considered an "upgrade."

No.l What factory hitch do you have? The only hitch I know of that came from the factory on MJs was the hitch bumper, and that's not nearly strong enough to be towing a 3500 pound car on a trailer that's going to add another 1500 to 2000 pounds.

They are both Renix throttle body systems, so even if there are some differences, overall the swap should work.

Factory spec for the BA10/5 is SAE 75W90, GL-5.

If they were the same, Jeep would have changed the recommendation for the BA 10/5 when they changed the recommendation for the AX-15. But ... they didn't. And it's also highly likely that my BA 10/5 would not have gone 287,000 miles if the gear lube was dining on the synchros. I have a call in to the parts guys at my dealership. If they can dredge up a current recommendation, they'll call me back and I'll post it.

You are correct -- for the AX-15. The question is about the BA 10/5

I've run what the factory calls for in my '88 XJ since it was new. 287,000 miles and still going strong ...

The track bar did change. The original track bar that was in my '88 XJ (which I purchased new) didn't have a grease fitting in the TRE at the frame end. ALL replacements I've seen, factory and after-market, have a grease fitting.

For what? Yes, wheel spacers will move the tires out to alleviate the tires rubbing the lower control arms. BUT ... move the tires out and then they'll be hitting the flares, both when turning and when the suspension compresses. To me that's just not a good "solution," since it creates two problems while fixing one problem. Run stock Jeep rims, don't lift (since a lift doesn't help the LCA problem anyway) and spend your money on a pair of WJ lower control arms. As already covered above.

Everybody tries to be a comedian. Don't give up your day job ...

How about posting some good photos so other folks can see what they look like and try to figure out how to replicate them?

No, I DON'T know. That why I'm kinda throwing it out there and asking. I went to a couple of sites which say that the ignition cylinders they sell don't interchange. But, of course, it's possible that they're going strictly by model years. Well, if they need different key blanks to work ... they don't interchange. That doesn't mean they won't fit the same steering column. When a locksmith replaces an ignition cylinder, he uses the existing key and grinds the tumblers to work with that key.

No, but if you get the ignition cylinder and the two door cylinders from any one-key XJ, even a half-blind locksmith can easily make up a pair of new keys to fit those cylinders. But are the earlier GM ignition cylinders the same size as the 91+ cylinders? I'm not sure if the later cylinder will fit into the earlier steering column. I can't answer with certainty because I haven't worked on any early to mid-90s XJs or MJs, but consider ... it's still a GM Saginaw steering column that Jeep bought from GM. Compared to how many vehicles GM put those columns in, how many XJs and MJs were there in each year between 1991 and 1994? Do you REALLY think GM re-engineered their steering column production to accommodate an odd size cylinder from Chrysler?

Since some of us have updated to '97+ dioors in their MJs, perhaps I'll be forgiven for posting this here. Another problem with the 2001 XJ from Hell is that all the power windows work from the driver's seat, but they can't be operated from the switches in the other doors. I've tried multiple times, and pressing the lockout button on my door doesn't make any difference. Eventually I suppose I should chase down a replacement switch but, for now, with Summer here and my wife not able to control her window it's a nuisance (more for her than for me). No kids at home, so we don't really need the lockout. It's never been used in the other two XJs. Does anyone know how it's wired? For all door switches to function, is the switch normally open or normally closed? (In other words, should I jumper the terminals, or disconnect the switch?)

No, but if you get the ignition cylinder and the two door cylinders from any one-key XJ, even a half-blind locksmith can easily make up a pair of new keys to fit those cylinders. However, I wasn't aware of this:

Must have been Goodyear tires. Possibly Wranglers GSA's? They make them square. Yeah, now that you mention it I believe the WJ did have GSAs. Don't remember what the ones were on the MJ.

Aside from the cost, how did they fit?

Nope. Just change the lock cylinder. Here's the catch-22: I've gone over this with two professional locksmiths. The ones that use two keys don't use the same blank for both keys. There's more of a difference than just one having a rectangular head and the other is oval. Look at the key itself and they appear similar, but they actually aren't. It's been years since I played with this, but either the ignition key won't fit the door keyways, or the door key won't fit the ignition keyway. That's issue number 1. Issue number 2 (according to the pros) is that the door keys are 5-bit keys and the ignition uses 6-bit keys. What that means is the door key cylinder has five tumblers and the ignition has six. The key length is the same, so the spacing of the tumblers is different. I asked if there was any way to re-key either the ignition or the doors to use the same key in both. One locksmith just flat out said it's impossible. The other said he "might" be able to get it to work, but because of the different spacing the keys or the cylinders would wear out very quickly. Which means if you want a one-key vehicle, you have to bite the bullet and buy all new 91+ cylinders and keys -- or raid them from a junkyard. Don't forget the glove box, if you ever might wish to lock it. If it's for an XJ, don't forget the rear hatch.

Just the early ones. Changed to one key in -- I think -- '91.