Eagle

Okay, then. As I wrote above, "If your engine starts but then dies, it sounds like the start bypass circuit is working but the normal RUN circuit has been compromised." That would explain why the previous owner hot-wired the fuel pump, but to fix it you need to trace that circuit to find out where the break is.

You need a wiring diagram to trace it back. By "bipassed" the ballast resistor, I assume you mean you just hot-wired/jumpered it. That will work if the problem is the ballast resistor itself, but your problem is the circuit. The normal path for power to the fuel pump is a circuit that runs through the ballast resistor. There is a true bypass circuit during starting, that skips the entire ballast resistor circuit and sends a full 12 volts to the fuel pump. If your engine starts but then dies, it sounds like the start bypass circuit is working but the normal RUN circuit has been compromised. When the key is in the RUN position, do you have power at the ballast resistor?

Back in the days when all cars had idiot lights and I routinely installed mechanical oil pressure gauges, the gauges usually came with plastic tubing. I scrapped that and used copper.

The actual bolt diameter is also a consideration, above and beyond the throat opening. The factory u-bolts are metric -- 12mm for the XJ and 14mm for the MJ. Just about any replacement you can find will be an SAE size, so you want to get a decent match. A lot of the u-bolts I've seen in the parts chain stores are 7/16", which is even smaller than a 12mm. For the MJ, 14mm is .5512 inches in diameter. 9/16" is .5625 inches, so it's larger than stock. It's a good choice if you can find them, but 1/2" is much more widely available. Personally, I would not hesitate to use new, good quality 1/2" u-bolts under an MJ, even knowing they are slightly smaller than what the factory used. (But slightly over-sized for an XJ -- since I have both, I just standardized.)

No, they won't work. The Dana 35 has a tube diameter of 2-5/8". The Dana 44 has a tube diameter of 2-3/4". The Chrysler 8.25 used 3" tubes. You need u-bolts with a throat dimension of not more than 2-3/4".

Yes, for the '87 thru '90 Renix 4.0 that used 19 pound-per-hour injectors.

You probably know this, but be sure to check the end gap on the piston rings when you assemble the engine. Especially with a very tight fit, this could be important.

If your truck isn't overheating, the auxiliary fan would not turn on. That coolant pressure bottle is like an extension of your radiator. Just as you should not remove the radiator cap when the system is hot, you also do NOT remove that cap when the system is hot. When the system is cold, the coolant level in the plastic bottle should be halfway -- NOT completely full. It's a sealed system, and the coolant needs some space to expand. Aim your thermometer at the left rear corner of the head. Temperature should be between 200 and 215 degrees F.

4.88s

Correct Why not use an aftermarket PRNDL indicator, as Hornbrod suggested?

Last time I bought a replacement for that vacuum harness it cost me $17. Today, we don't replace it -- we lock the front axle in the engaged position and don't worry about it. That little "issue" isn't a $1000 deduct, it's a half hour fix before you sell. I wouldn't sell that truck. You'll never be able to replace it for near what you'll get for it.

If you have an '88 Comanche you have a front axle with a vacuum actuated disconnect. It is possible for the transfer case to be in 4WD and the indicator light to be lit (yes, the "Part Time" light is the 4WD indicator) but if the vacuum disconnect isn't working, you don't really have functional 3WD.

Then he has to find a seal that will fit the right side of his differential housing -- which may or may not be set up to even accept a seal at that location.

Link?

But the Cherokee with the CAD never (to my knowledge) came with CV joints, so I don't think you can find a replacement that's set up for CV joints on the passenger side.

Nope. The problem is that the Renix ECU doesn't ever "learn" to optimize itself. Every time you start the engine, the computer has to run through a checklist and verify signals from several sensors. It's worse if you just turn the key directly to START, because if the fuel system lost pressure overnight the engine cranks while the fuel pump is still bringing the system up to pressure. I always listen to the fuel pump, and I don't start cranking the starter until the fuel pump has run and shut off. But with a remote starter you don't get that option.

That's the one. If that had been available when I needed it, I would have bought it rather than the Moroso.

The ones I have are from Moroso Speed Equipment. Summit racing carries them. Somebody else has come out with one that's the same shape as the plastic bottle and fits right on the same bracket. Don't remember who makes it but it has been discussed here previously. That one is a neater solution than the Moroso bottle, but it wasn't available when I bought mine. Here's the one I used, but Summit now offers several other types, as well Go to their site and search on "Moroso surge tank" http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-63650/overview/

Cherokee leaf springs are flatter than Comanche leaf springs. Typically, a Cherokee AAL produces about 1-1/2" to 2" LESS lift in a Comanche than the same AAL would produce in a Cherokee. So an AAL that lifts a Cherokee 3 inches might lift a Comanche 1 inch to 1-1/2 inches.

The two questions are unrelated. With a 4-1/2" lift you NEED a longer rubber hose from the frame to the axle. Two options that many people have used are 94/95 YJ, or mid-90s Dakota. As to the rear height sensing valve, there is no need or reason to fabricate a drop bracket. All you need is a longer rod between the arm on the valve and the ball stud on the differential housing. With no load in the bed, the arm should ride horizontal.

How are you planning to bore it yourself? Do you have a machine shop? You don't bore engine blocks with a Dremel ...

I don't think the mechanical speedometers register in reverse. There's a pin at zero, the needle can't go lower than that.

I found 17 threads on NAXJA that mention resetting it, but I couldn't find a link to the article with photos that I know I saw many years ago. It can be done.

Please describe how you reset a disposable timer. We're all ears. The procedure is in videos on Youtube, and has been posted several times at NAXJA over the years.

???? Really? Got a source for this information? I have never heard this.