Eagle

I was leaning in that direction, too. I can't think of anything else that would do it.

I currently own three: a 1987 Pioneer, a 1988 SporTruck, and a 1988 Chief. IIRC I've had four more pass through here since the addiction took hold.

Interesting, but hardly a Jeep. Translation (very rough) of the description: "It based on the French vehicle Overland A-3, was designed for Eike cambric (better known in Brazil as the husband of the model Luma de Oliveira) to replace to the old jeep Ford CJ5. Due to the good fulfillments of the French Overland, its designer decided not innovate too much but to trust in the reliability from the A-3 and to utilize the same platform. Its greater characteristic is that of utilizing common components with many other vehicles of the Brazilian market, facilitating the logistics. They were manufactured 500 in their military version since 1994 to the closing of the factory, in 2001." Outside of the U.S., as I learned when I first visited Chile in 2003 by invitation from a Chilean member of NAXJA, anything and everything that is remotely a 4x4 SUV is thought of and referred to as a "Jeep." While I was there I went on an expedition to the sand dunes with my friend's 4x4 club. We were out in the middle of a sea of sand, waiting for other members of his club to show up. We heard an engine in the distance and Mike (Miguel) said, "Ah, here comes Ivan in my old Jeep." And a minute later what popped over the top of a dune but a Daihatsu Rocky! To them, it was a "Jeep."

Looks good to go. I was going to point out that I believe the length of the rod is different, but this kit solves that by using a shift arm with multiple holes. Plus it's just threaded rod, so if necessary you can go to any Lowe's or Home Depot and buy a length of all thread.

Well, it's try to build up pressure. But ... as dainternetguy wrote, liquids don't compress. So if the bottle is full and the pressure increases, there's only one thing that can happen -- the cap fails and the pressure vents through it. The owner's manual and the FSM say to fill it halfway. That's why there's a post inside -- it's marked to show you how far to fill it.

I wasn't aware that this product exists, but it looks like a good product, and it certainly looks like the solution to your problem.

I believe it's a proprietary (factory) hose with one end expanded larger than the hose body. Don't remember for certain. Check NAPA. BTW, on your Jeep that is not an overflow tank. It's a pressurized part of the cooling system. When you get the new tank, do NOT fill it all the way up. It should be filled to the halfway mark when cold. No higher.

In general, the synthetics like Royal Purple are safe for the synchronizers. The Pennzoil Syncromesh was formulated specifically for transmissions, so it's also a pretty safe bet.

Much will depend on whether any water gets into the car. If so, you'll need to strip out the nterior and dry it out.

I believe NAPA has the tank. Possibly Quadratec, too, but I'm not at all sure about that.

I seriously doubt that 50 psi is the right tire pressure for anything under an MJ. The sidewall may say that 50 psi is the maximum pressure, but that's not typically the pressure you should run them at. IMHO death wobble=tire balance. Steering damper is to prevent steering wheel "kick-back" when off-roading. I've experienced death wobble in two Jeeps that had steering dampers, so I am quite certain that the damper will not cure -- or even mask -- death wobble.

To plug the outlet on the forward distribution block, you can track down a plug made for the purpose, or you can use any standard 1/2" fine thread bolt and cut it to the length needed.

You don't always have the luxury of "staying aware of it." Example: A few years ago I was cut off on a highway by a ditzy soccer mom who zoomed up an entrance ramp and pulled immediately into my lane without looking to see if the lane was occupied. I was driving my wife's 2000 Cherokee, which was (and is) completely stock. I slammed on the brakes and put the Cherokee into a sideways slide at 60 MPH. I am absolutely certain that if I had no front sway bar the XJ would have rolled over rather than slid. Emergencies don't make appointments, and they don't leave to time to remember that you disconnected a critical part that the factory engineers installed because it was considered necessary.

The issue is not in normal driving. The issue is that the manufacturer put that sway bar there for a reason. It's lack would show up if you ever had to make a sudden evasive maneuver, such as a sharp swerve if a child ran out into the street right in front of you. In the early days of NAXJA, one of the members rolled his XJ two blocks from home on a residential street for this very reason. He acknowledged it and publicly admitted that it was his own fault because he didn't think he needed the sway bar. A complete replacement link is $16 at Advanced Auto. Are you really going to risk totaling your truck for $16? http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/driveworks-suspension-sway-bar-link-kit-dw-k3173/15510466-P?searchTerm=sway+bar+link+kit

If you are saying that you broke a sway bar link, yes it's dangerous to drive it that way on the street.

I have no idea what you're talking about or where you got your measurement points. The Jeep Information Service Bulletin (which has been cited in multiple previous threads) tells us that for the front you measure from the top of the axle tube to the underside of the frame rail directly above. For a 4WD vehicle, the measurement should be 7-3/4" +/- 1/2". As to the rear lift, think about what you're gaining. The amount of lift will be the axle tube diameter + the offset of the spring perches from the tube + the thickness of the spring pack. That's going to be between 5-1/2 and 6 inches. Are you measuring to the bottom of the actual bumpstop? If so -- wrong. There are four different bumpstop heights. You measure from the top of the axle tube to the bottom of the frame rail AT the bumpstop. The dimension (for stock) should be 9.2" +/1 1/2". With a spring over conversion, I would expect something on the order of 15 inches.

??? You might want to check that measurement. And if you gained only 3-1/2" of lift with a SOA conversion, your rear springs are NOT in good shape.

??? You might want to check that measurement.

The header is different. I don't know if the '88 header can be modified to work with the newer grill and headlight bezels.

Start with this: http://comancheclub.com/topic/43474-comanche-blueprint/

First, just about every 4.0L Jeep I have ever seen typically runs with the gauge showing around 210. The thermostat is supposed to be a 195-degree, but the rear corner of the head (where the sender is located) is a slightly hot spot. So 210 isn't anything to be alarmed about. The temperature would then go down because the thermostat opened. How high do you fill your coolant reservoir? It's a pressure bottle, and also an expansion tank. It should be filled the the HALF level with the engine cold -- no more. Overfill it, and as the coolant expands it has nowhere to go. Air can be compressed. Liquids do not compress, so it would have to force its way out at the weakest point, which is typically the cap on the plastic bottle.

Agreed.

Keep in mind that pipe is measured by inside diameter, and tubing is measured by outside diameter. If your Harbor Freight bender is a "pipe" bender, you probably won't get good results using it for tubing.

If you have spark you don't need a distributor cap or a CPS. Did you have the distributor out? If so, are you certain you reinstalled it in the correct orientation? What year is your MJ? The CPS and flywheel changed in 1991 to go with the HO's Chrysler ignition and injection. If you use an HO flywheel and CPS with a Renix ignition and injection, it won't work. Do you have a noid light? Do you know if the injectors are squirting? Have you tried starting it by dribbling gasoline directly into the throttle body?

The early Dana 35s did not use c-clips in the differential to retain the axles. The axles are held in by the bearing retainers at the outer ends. The 1990 and newer use c-clips.