Eagle

They are the same transmission. The AX-4 just doesn't have a fifth gear cluster in the back part of the housing.

Two points: First, the tanks are baffled, to an extent, but the float isn't dead center. The level will read significantly different if the nose is point up a slope, as compared to if the nose is pointing down-slope. Second, check your voltage at idle and above 1500 or 2000 RPM. If there's a voltage drop at low RPM, that will affect the readin.

Rusty's and others also do a behind the bumper winch mount. have no pictures of mine yet but here is what I have: Yes, but the factory Hidden Winch option used a stock bumper. The factory two hook brackets had two sets of holes -- one set mounted the bumper in the normal position, the other set moved the bumper forward to make the space for the winch. And, as you commented, the winch was "clocked" 90 degrees from what we consider the normal mounting position.

For what it's worth, when the Cherokee and Comanche first came out the factory offered something called a "Hiden Winch" option. The winch mount moved the bumper forward about 8 inches, allowing the winch to be installed behind the factory bumper and run the cable through a fairlead cut into the face of the bumper. I've never seen one in the flesh in the U.S. but I saw a lot of them when visiting my wife's family in South America. The factory used Ramsey winches, rated either 5,000 or 6,000 pounds (depending on year, I guess).

For a 4.0L, the downpipe is 2-1/2". The catalytic converter is a 2-1/2" inlet, and 2-1/2" at the outlet from the cat body. The short pipe from the cat (which is an integral part of the cat) to the muffler necks down to 2-1/4 halfway to the muffler.

As pointed out by Jeep Driver, being at TDC does not mean you are on the compression stroke. In fact, if your distributor was pointing at #6 with the piston at TDC, I'd guess you are on the exhaust stroke. The firing order for an in-line 6 is 1-5-3-6-2-4. Notice that #6 corresponds to #1, but on the second go-round for the crank in one full cycle (two revolutions). Either that, or you didn't index the new distributor properly when you installed it. The housing itself can't be adjusted (unless you follow Hornbrod's procedure and grind off the indexing tab, but that should be the LAST resort, not the first). If you're certain the #1 cylinder is at TDC and is on the compression stroke, then you'll need to pull the distributor and realign the drive gear by a couple of teeth until it points at the #1 turret on the distributor cap.

It has to be at TDC with the #1 cylinder on the compression stroke. You may have it on the exhaust stroke. Then you count the number of links between the mark on the crank sprocket and the mark on the cam sprocket. How to set that is in the FSM.

The AX-5 is not as beefy as the AX-15, but there are those who would say it's better than the BA10/5. Personally, I rate them about equal but AMC/Jeep must have thought the BA10/5 was stronger or they wouldn't have used it when they introduced the 4.0L engine in [model year] 1987.

2WD or 4WD? If 4WD, check the front drive shaft.

The ballast resistor on my '88 MJ and my '88 XJ is on the driver's side -- right next to the air box.

Gear Wrench for the win

SWR is an acronym for Standing Wave Ratio. If your radio doesn't have a built-in SWR meter, Radio Shack used to sell one for around 20 bucks. I have no idea if Radio Shack sells anything useful today. Where will you mount the radio and the antenna? One thing to try to avoid is using a very long antenna cable and then coiling the excess somewhere between the antenna and the radio. If you can' try to keep the antenna downlead as short and as straight as possible.

Okay, now I have another question: Which push rod? I was thinking the push rod from the peddle to the master -- I'm accustomed to the BA10/5 with the internal slave, so I forgot that a clutch with an external slave also has a push rod on the lower end.

Did you replace your push rod?

So I bought a new master and bled all brakes... Problem still presists. I tried doing that procedure you told me but I don't understand it... If I bled the brakes with a front caliper bleeder valve open then it'll just suck air into the system! Only into the front circuit. That's the point. The bypass circuit on the rear proportioning valve is there so that if the front brakes fail, the rears switch to full braking power. In order to make that work, there are two lines from the front distribution block to the rear. A conventional bleed only bleeds the primary line, not the bypass. So you simulate a front brake failure by opening a front bleeder. There's no guarantee that's your problem, but there is a prescribed way to bleed MJ brakes, and if you haven't properly bled the bypass circuit you haven't bled the system. If it works, you're good to go and you've learned something. If it doesn't work, all you've lost is a half hour and a partial can of brake fluid. IMHO that's better than throwing parts at it and finding out the new parts didn't solve the problem.

Considering the the Wrangler YJ was leaf spring all around and had a lousy reputation for articulation, and that Jeep's solution with the TJ Wrangler was to go to coils on all four corners, I see no benefit to converting a front coil suspension to leaf springs. I think a good long-arm suspension kit would be far superior, for a lot less money.

How did you verify that the "new" booster is good? The problem you're describing is the classic symptom of a bad booster. How much did you change out? Are you using the XJ front distribution block/proportioning valve or the original MJ distribution block? Does your truck still have the rear height sensing proportioning valve? If so, did you follow the factory procedure to get the rear bypass line bled?

287,000+ for the one in my '88 Cherokee. GL5 is the recommended gear lube for the BA10/5. That's all mine has ever seen. It's the AX-5 and AX-15 that should not see GL4 or GL5.

The factory parts manual just calls is "Bolt" -- part number 3420 1506

The typical 32 is a 32x11.50-15. Actual diameter is slightly less than 32, more like 31.7", and width at the sidewalls is about 11.4". 11.4" is 289.56mm. Call it a 285 for nominal tire size purposes (slightly narrower), or bump it to 295. Using 285 as the width, then we have to figure the aspect ratio. Were looking for an overall diameter of 32". Subtract 17" and that leaves 15 for the tire, and then divide by 2 to get the cross section height: 7.5", which is 190.5mm. 190.5 / 285 = .668. So in a 17-inch tire you're looking for a 285/65-17. I have no idea if such a tire exists. In a 16-inch tire size, a 285/75-16 is 32.8" in diameter (basically a 33) and 11.2" in cross-section width. Call it a 33x11.50-16.

How do we know this? Why didn't someone tell me before I replaced the passenger side motor mount without touching the oil filter adapter?

Are you certain? I've looked at the CR Laurence MJ sliders, and they are definitely NOT the same as the OEM. They may have glass to repair their slider, but I doubt they have glass for the factory slider. But I hope you're right and I'm wrong. http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showline/offerpage.aspx?ProductID=87862&GroupID=1653&History=30587:21770:1336:21770:1351:1389&ModelID=1653&pom=0 It's interesting that they say their 4-panel window is an "original" (their quotes, not mine) four-panel design, when the original/factory design was a 3-panel. Theirs also has a full perimeter frame -- the factory unit has a "frame" strip across the top and bottom, but the end panels are exposed glass that glues directly to the opening lip.

It's always nice to know you don't have to swap out the engine ...

You're right. My only excuse is that it was late and I was tired. You shouldn't need any resistors. The ohm range for the Renix is 0 to 88. The range for the HO is (IIRC) something like 104 to 4. The substantive difference is the reversed polarity. You can fix that by tracing the two leads from the fuel gauge back to the plug at the back of the cluster. Remove the corresponding two wires from the plug and reverse their positions. That will not reverse polarity to the gauge, it only shifts the sender pot slider sensing point. To reverse polarity you have to do it at the sender potentiometer; remove the output lead from the + potentiometer leg to the opposite - leg at the sender. The ohm difference between the Renix and HO pots is negligible, but will cause a ~20% difference in the fuel gauge indication.

You shouldn't need any resistors. The ohm range for the Renix is 0 to 88. The range for the HO is (IIRC) something like 104 to 4. The substantive difference is the reversed polarity. You can fix that by tracing the two leads from the fuel gauge back to the plug at the back of the cluster. Remove the corresponding two wires from the plug and reverse their positions.