Eagle

First choice: NGK (conventional, not platinum) Second choice: Champion Truck Plugs Third choice: see above

I think it's a bad idea. Plows are designed for stock height vehicles. We know that a 5" lift messes up the control arm angles -- the control arm drop kits are sold to correct that. The same applies to the plow rig. Instead of the plow attachments and pistons running more or less horizontal, they'll be pitched at a significant angle. The physics and geometry of that mean that when pushing heavy snow, there will be a tendency for the truck to be trying to "pole vault" over the plow rather than pushing it straight forward.

The sites report that they don't fit because that size was never used by the factory. The largest from the factory was 225/75R15. That said, even as I type my wife's Cherokee is rolling on Wrangler Radials in 235/75R15 and they fit fine. My old '88 Cherokee is on 31x10.50-15s, with no lift -- and the Cherokee rear wheel wells are smaller than the Comanche's.

Nope.

In general, 16" tires cost more than 15" tires of overall equal size. I own two 2000 Cherokees. My wife's is a Classic, with 16" wheels. Mine is a Sport, with 15" wheels. The Sport came with 225/75R15 tires, the Classic came with 225/70R16 tires. They are the same diameter. The difference in aspect ratio makes up for the larger rims.

Are you absolutely certain the gear ratio is the same in both axles?

Do they have them? For the REAR of a Comanche? Stock, OEM replacements? I didn't know they existed.

A friend from NAXJA did have one of those "OMG what have I done" cases. FSM (2000, since the MJ manual is from 1986 and doesn't include the 4.0L engine or clutch):

Please do NOT have a 4.0L flywheel turned. The factory service manual very specifically tells us NOT to turn the flywheel. It's not easy to see, but it's not flat, and turning it often results in clutch problems after the replacement.

Absolutely correct. (Unfortunately.)

They are the same transmission. The AX-4 just doesn't have a fifth gear cluster in the back part of the housing.

Two points: First, the tanks are baffled, to an extent, but the float isn't dead center. The level will read significantly different if the nose is point up a slope, as compared to if the nose is pointing down-slope. Second, check your voltage at idle and above 1500 or 2000 RPM. If there's a voltage drop at low RPM, that will affect the readin.

Rusty's and others also do a behind the bumper winch mount. have no pictures of mine yet but here is what I have: Yes, but the factory Hidden Winch option used a stock bumper. The factory two hook brackets had two sets of holes -- one set mounted the bumper in the normal position, the other set moved the bumper forward to make the space for the winch. And, as you commented, the winch was "clocked" 90 degrees from what we consider the normal mounting position.

For what it's worth, when the Cherokee and Comanche first came out the factory offered something called a "Hiden Winch" option. The winch mount moved the bumper forward about 8 inches, allowing the winch to be installed behind the factory bumper and run the cable through a fairlead cut into the face of the bumper. I've never seen one in the flesh in the U.S. but I saw a lot of them when visiting my wife's family in South America. The factory used Ramsey winches, rated either 5,000 or 6,000 pounds (depending on year, I guess).

For a 4.0L, the downpipe is 2-1/2". The catalytic converter is a 2-1/2" inlet, and 2-1/2" at the outlet from the cat body. The short pipe from the cat (which is an integral part of the cat) to the muffler necks down to 2-1/4 halfway to the muffler.

As pointed out by Jeep Driver, being at TDC does not mean you are on the compression stroke. In fact, if your distributor was pointing at #6 with the piston at TDC, I'd guess you are on the exhaust stroke. The firing order for an in-line 6 is 1-5-3-6-2-4. Notice that #6 corresponds to #1, but on the second go-round for the crank in one full cycle (two revolutions). Either that, or you didn't index the new distributor properly when you installed it. The housing itself can't be adjusted (unless you follow Hornbrod's procedure and grind off the indexing tab, but that should be the LAST resort, not the first). If you're certain the #1 cylinder is at TDC and is on the compression stroke, then you'll need to pull the distributor and realign the drive gear by a couple of teeth until it points at the #1 turret on the distributor cap.

It has to be at TDC with the #1 cylinder on the compression stroke. You may have it on the exhaust stroke. Then you count the number of links between the mark on the crank sprocket and the mark on the cam sprocket. How to set that is in the FSM.

The AX-5 is not as beefy as the AX-15, but there are those who would say it's better than the BA10/5. Personally, I rate them about equal but AMC/Jeep must have thought the BA10/5 was stronger or they wouldn't have used it when they introduced the 4.0L engine in [model year] 1987.

2WD or 4WD? If 4WD, check the front drive shaft.

The ballast resistor on my '88 MJ and my '88 XJ is on the driver's side -- right next to the air box.

Gear Wrench for the win

SWR is an acronym for Standing Wave Ratio. If your radio doesn't have a built-in SWR meter, Radio Shack used to sell one for around 20 bucks. I have no idea if Radio Shack sells anything useful today. Where will you mount the radio and the antenna? One thing to try to avoid is using a very long antenna cable and then coiling the excess somewhere between the antenna and the radio. If you can' try to keep the antenna downlead as short and as straight as possible.

Okay, now I have another question: Which push rod? I was thinking the push rod from the peddle to the master -- I'm accustomed to the BA10/5 with the internal slave, so I forgot that a clutch with an external slave also has a push rod on the lower end.

Did you replace your push rod?

So I bought a new master and bled all brakes... Problem still presists. I tried doing that procedure you told me but I don't understand it... If I bled the brakes with a front caliper bleeder valve open then it'll just suck air into the system! Only into the front circuit. That's the point. The bypass circuit on the rear proportioning valve is there so that if the front brakes fail, the rears switch to full braking power. In order to make that work, there are two lines from the front distribution block to the rear. A conventional bleed only bleeds the primary line, not the bypass. So you simulate a front brake failure by opening a front bleeder. There's no guarantee that's your problem, but there is a prescribed way to bleed MJ brakes, and if you haven't properly bled the bypass circuit you haven't bled the system. If it works, you're good to go and you've learned something. If it doesn't work, all you've lost is a half hour and a partial can of brake fluid. IMHO that's better than throwing parts at it and finding out the new parts didn't solve the problem.