Eagle

There is no difference for the hitch -- the same hitch should fit a longbed and a shortbed. If you have a hitch that uses separate mounting plates that mounts to the underside of the frame, you have a universal hitch, not a hitch that was made specifically for the MJ. Fey bumper mount brackets will do the job. #97900 http://www.buyautotruckaccessories.com/product.cfm/cf-bin/pn.fey-bumper-mounting-kits/doapps.1/#apps

Look at the listings in your links. You have (according to your signature) an '87 MJ with the 4.0L engine. Do you see the '87 4.0L engine listed with those parts?

The factory parts manual does not have a part number for those. That means that THERE IS NO PART NUMBER for us to know. What part of THERE IS NO PART NUMBER don't you understand?

^^^ This. That isn't a carburetor, it's a throttle body injection setup. Instead of one injector for each cylinder ("multi-port fuel injection"), the '86 through '90 4-banger in the XJ and MJ used throttle body injection, in which a single injector mounted in the inlet to the throttle body delivers the fuel. It's not exactly "bad @$$" because, although it's a bit better than a carburetor, it's nowhere near as efficient as multi-port fuel injection.

The factory parts manual doesn't list a separate gasket for the vent towers.

Link to instructions: http://comancheclub.com/topic/37727-how-to-post-pictures/

You post the photo(s) to a photo hosting site, such as Photobucket or Tinypics or many others, then you post links to the photos in the forum post.

Oh, come on. It's a one-time installation. Most of us already have the proper tool.

1) On the MJ, as commented above, the front thingie under the master cylinder has no proportioning function, so what on yours was stuck? How did you determine that something was stuck? 2) MJ front metering blocks don't grow on trees, so what did you replace it with?

The springs are the same length for both models, but there would be no advantage to swapping springs just because you're changing the axle. If your springs are sagged, then there might be an advantage to putting in new springs -- but because of the sag, not because of the axle swap. A note of caution: Several people have posted that replacing their old springs with new AFTERMARKET metric ton springs resulted in a ride height two or three inches HIGHER than factory ride height. To some that's not a bad thing, maybe even a good thing. To me, that would be entirely unacceptable.

Nope. Yepp.

Do you have the locating dowels in place? If not, the bell housing might be able to shift enough to start loosening the bolts.

A "noid light." I think you can buy them at all the major parts stores.

I didn't say anything about miles or kilometers. If your odometer hasn't been recalibrated, you can't calculate your fuel economy because the distance your odometer says you drove since the last fill-up probably isn't correct.

How much does a steering knuckle cost? I think the inserts are brass for two reasons: First, they are sacrificial; they're made to be softer than the ball joint or the knuckle so they are the part that gets wallowed out first, rather than damaging the knuckle itself. Second, with brass there's less chance of the ball joint stud getting frozen into the tapered hole in the insert. Which, of course, leads to the question: Why didn't they use the insert on BOTH ball joints? I dunno. I wasn't there and they didn't consult me.

Well, now -- this gets interesting. For 1986 thru 1993 the factory parts manual shows the split ring at the top of the steering knuckle, and they show a metric boatload of different knuckles -- left and right, with different part numbers for with or w/o ABS. The split ring is part number 8350 0203. The FPM also shows a complete ball joint kit as a single part number, and the view of that shows the split ring with the upper ball joint. The 1994-1996 FPM shows the same split ring and the same part number, but now it's on the bottom of the knuckle. And they show only ONE part number for the knuckle on each side -- not different depending on whether or not you have ABS.The ball joint kit is still available, and the view of that also shows the split ring with the lower ball joint. For 1997-99, the part number for the split ring remains the same, it's moved back to the top of the knuckle, and the name has changed from "split ring" to "Ring,ball joint." The part numbers for the knuckles are the same as for '94-'96. For the 2000 XJ, the ball joint kit is still the same, the split ring still has the same part number and is still shown with the upper ball joint, but the knuckles have new part numbers.

Sorry - I copied the link but I forgot to paste it. http://comancheclub.com/topic/1175-cws-mj-2005-10/page-20

Have your speedometer and odometer been recalibrated to adjust for the larger tires and non-stock gearing?

The oil pressure sender is on the passenger side, next to the oil filter. I think what you're looking at is the knock sensor. I have no idea what the bare wire is, though.

I wouldn't give up on it, and I wouldn't put on "little" patch panels with the idea of lasting for a year or so. Since there are holes, I would start by washing out the frame rail with a power washer, to get ALL the dirt and mud and gunk out. Then I would get a couple of aerosol cans of rust killer and spray the inside of the frame liberally. Let it dry. Maybe set up a small fan to get some air moving through the frame. Then I would get some heavy-gauge sheet steel and cut it to the shape of the frame rail, up and over the axle. Keep it just a tiny bit less in height that the height of the frame rail. Weld it on. Then take another piece of sheet steel and make up a full-length U-plate to wrap around under the frame rail, with legs turned up on both sides. Weld that on. Paint liberally with multiple coats of Rust-Oleum gloss or semi-gloss black, then spray on a heavy coat of rustproofing. (NOT "undercoating" -- "rustproofing." They are not interchangeable.) Here's CWLONGSHOT's build thread, to give you some ideas on the repair. Scroll to post #391 for the frame repair sequence.

Possible bad CPS? Possible clogged catalytic converter?

Yes it does. You may choose not to replace them, but I know for a fact that the inserts are there in an '89 Cherokee.

The O2 sensor is supposed to be good for approximately 80,000 miles. Being an '88, your truck has a Renix ignition and injection system. If it's set up similar to the 4.0L, in addition to the temperature sensor on the head that sends data to the temp gauge, there should be another temperature sensor down on the left (driver's) side of the block. That's the one that sends temperature data to the ECU, and that's what determines when the ECU switches out of open loop (warm-up) mode into closed lop (normal run) mode. In warm-up mode, the system runs in a rich condition. After the engine gets to normal operating temperature (actually, a bit before -- around 165 degrees) the ECU kicks in and starts controlling the injection. First possibility is that someone put in a cold thermostat, and the engine isn't getting warm enough to switch to closed loop mode. That'll cause a rich condition. Saw it on a trail ride some years ago. Guy had a 4.0L. He hit a rock and broke his exhaust header. The exhaust leak caused the ECU to think it was running lean, so it started injecting a lot more gas. It didn't all burn in the cylinder, so the exhaust was pumping out burning fuel -- so much that the header pipes were a bright yellow-orange color. So you might have a bad thermostat, or you could have a bad temperature sensor on the block.

Find a way to plug ALL the oil return holes. Pull the valve pushrods and plug the holes. If there's old oil in there that's been cooked, you'll chip of some tiny bits that are HARD, and they don't do nice things to the internals of the engine. Be sure to keep the pushrods in order, and keep the tops on top.

Don't pack it, but wipe some good wheel bearing grease or something similar on the ID of the bushing and the OD of the tranny input shaft.