Eagle

Other than Load-Levelers, which have coil springs on them, it doesn't matter what shocks you put on. Shock absorbers don't carry any weight and they don't affect ride height -- all they do (and all they're intended to do) is dampen the bounciness of the suspension. You need helper springs or air bags. If you look in the Monroe catalog, you WON'T find Load-Levelers listed for the Comanche. The reason is that they affect ride height (:duh:), which affects the way the rear height sensing brake proportioning valve works. By not letting the bed settle as much under load, they fool the brake system into NOT providing enough braking to the rear when you're heavily loaded. Monroe makes Load-Levelers that will fit a Comanche -- you just won't find them listed for the Comanche, so you'll have to do some homeworjk to figure out which ones are the right ones. But I wouldn't install Load-Levelers (or helper springs, or air bags) unless you remove the height-sensing valve and replace it with a manually-adjustable proportioning valve.

What we think doesn't matter. What matters is the "book" value for a '91 Comanche. I went through this a couple of years ago with my 2000 XJ, which at the time only had about 30,000 miles on it and looked like it had just driven off the showroom floor. 9Except for the crumpled fender and busted header.) Insurance company said it was worth $4,500 -- which was less than the repair estimate. I showed them listings from dealers for 2000 XJs with more miles that were being advertised for $10,000 and up, and they said that didn't matter. All that matters is the book value. In the end, the appraiser increased the value of the vehicle slightly and the shop sharpened their pencil and dropped the cost of repair slightly, so I was able to get it repaired without going through the salvage title process. But it was a close shave. Any other work would have put it into the "totaled" category.

I had an interesting Thanksgiving. A tree branch took out just the neutral wire between my house and the street, resulting in most of the circuits getting 240 volts instead of 120 volts. A LOT of things got fried (including the heat circulator controller, hot water circulator controller, boiler burner controller, several light fixtures, and my laser printer). I'm still getting things put back to a semblance of normal, which is why I haven't been on here that much recently. Which brings me to the request part. Good friends across town invited me to join their family for Thanksgiving dinner, knowing I wasn't able to cook my own. Their 12-year old daughter knows that I have published a few books, so I guess she thinks I'm a "pro." After dinner, she presented me with a printout of a book she wrote -- about a 12-year-old girl dragon. When I got it home and read it, I thought it was remarkably good for a 12-year old. So I got the bright idea to give it a quick edit, format it as a real book, and upload it to Amazon's self publishing site to put it in print. I got together with her father last weekend and we set up an author account linked to her bank account, uploaded the book, and it's now on sale as both a printed book and a Kindle edition. The back story on this is that the author's older brother is severely special needs, so her parents don't have a lot of time to spend with her. That probably explains why she spends a lot of time reading, and now writing. I showed the book to a couple of co-workers who have daughters the same age, and they both said "My daughter couldn't have written that." If any of you would be willing to drop $5 on a copy of the Kindle edition, I think it would really light up her day on Christmas if her father could call up the sales report and show her that [___] people have already bought her book. So far I know of three sales -- I bought the Kindle, and her father bought both the Kindle edition and the print version. It's a LITTLE book, for sure, and definitely not adult fare. If any of you would buy it, it would be just to help make the girl's day -- it won't replace Isaac Asimov's books on your best-seller shelf, but I think it would blow the kid's mind if she sees a sales report that a bunch of people bought HER book. Thanks for your consideration. https://www.amazon.com/Pearl-Thief-Grace-Acampora-ebook/dp/B0BNZLT2FC/ref=sr_1_2?crid=369WWWDU0CFW4&keywords=The+Pearl+Thief&qid=1670573709&s=books&sprefix=the+pearl+thief%2Cstripbooks%2C99&sr=1-2

I don't think you heard that from me, because I've never seen colored brake fluid (except the DOT-5 silicone I use, which has a very faint bluish tinge to it), and I don't remember ever posting anything about colored brake fluids.

A friend of mine has a 1999 Wrangler. It started out as a 4-cylinder 5-speed. Late last year he swapped in the complete power train and wiring harness from a 2000 Wrangler 4.0L 5-speed. It now runs and drives okay -- he uses it for plowing his house and his shop's parking lot -- but he has a check engine light. The codes indicate that BOTH O2 sensors are bad. The check engine light was not on in the Wrangler the "new" engine care out of before he pulled it. And it seems unlikely that both O2 sensors could have been damaged in the engine swap. Does n anyone have any ideas? We're in Connecticut, so if he can't get this fixed he won't be able to renew the registration because it won't pass emissions testing with a check engine light fault showing.

I think you are discovering that the BA 10/5 doesn't like to shift into second gear when cold. It's the nature of the beast. You mentioned rev matching, which prompts me to comment that when I learned to drive (back in the days of "three on the tree" manual transmissions), my grandfather taught me to double clutch. Back then, I was good enough at it that I could shift into non-synchronized first gear at up to 15 MPH with no gear clashing. I have always double-clutched my downshifts on the BA 10/5, and I also do so in my 2000 XJ 5-speed. It's technically not necessary, but I think it helps the synchronizer rings to live longer. But with the BA 10/5, in colder weather second gear is problematic even on upshifts, You either shift at exactly 2250 RPM, or you "granny" shift it when you're just barely even rolling -- and that doesn't work if you're heading uphill.

Check junk yards for '84 and '85 XJ Cherokee 2.5L. Or ... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaz-84-4495/make/jeep https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/c3/distributors/16062?filterValue=isFitted_uFilter%3AExact Fit&term=distributor&categoryGroupId=16062

I wondered the same thing. Man, that could be the ultimate CC DIY upgrade.

Sorry -- The '86 2.5L had the diagnostic connectors, but you're right -- the 2.8L did not. My bad. Good job on diagnosing the circuit board. That would have been completely over my pay grade.

Couple of points: You haven't said anything about how you shift, or what kind(s) of manual transmission vehicles you have driven in the past. Your expectations may not be aligned with reality. The Comanche is a TRUCK. It's not a drag racer. If you're the type of driver who likes to bang their shifts as fast as the hand can humanly move the shift lever, you have the wrong vehicle and the wrong transmission. I have driven on the order of 350,000 miles in Jeeps with the BA 10/5 transmission. I also live in New England, so I know about cold weather behavior. With all the Jeep XJ/MJ manuals (BA 10/5, AX-15, and NP 3500/3550), you can't rush the shifts -- and for some reason that is especially true for the first-to-second shift. After pulling the lever out of first, it's generally necessary to hesitate for a half a heartbeat or so before shifting into second. For the first-to-second shift, my experience is that RPM is critical. What I found is that you should get up to exactly 2250 RPM in first before shifting to second. Either that, or if you're pointing downhill you want to be just barely rolling. If you're going uphill -- don't even think about second gear when it's cold. Run the revs up high enough that you can skip second gear and go directly into third, or shift into second at the lowest possible RPM to be able to engage second without stalling the engine. This is assuming that the clutch is properly disengaging. ALL the forward gears are synchronized. Reverse is not. If you can't shift it into reverse when the vehicle isn't moving and your foot is on the clutch pedal, the problem is the clutch, not the transmission or the transmission oil.

If it'll post, here's the pinout for the diagnostic ports:

There are two diagnostic connectors under the hood, one of which has ports for inserting probes to test the tach signal. You can use any aftermarket tachometer or a shop idle tach to run the tests. The electrical manual will have pinouts of tose two diagnostic connectors to show you what ports to use for the tach test. The '93 tach should work.

Duplicate threads merged and purged.

I have a factory 3-piece rear window that's missing the center (sliding) section. If anyone has a center section out of a factory rear window that's gone to the great Jeep farm in the sky, please shoot me a PM.

That (semi) computer-controlled carburetor was absolute garbage. Grab the distributor, for sure. If you want to go with a carburetor, there's are lots of non-computer one- and two-barrel carbs that will work on the 2.5L that are FAR better than the factory thingie.

That's a 231 transfer case, but it's not out of an '89 MJ. That's out of a late model XJ, with the short shaft output. The tailshaft housing of an '89 would look like this: The driveshaft front yoke would go directly into the tailshaft housing, and there wouldn't be that bellows dustcover.

Any progress on checking the fusible links?

The web channel run by Robby Layton may be helpful. Robbie owns a body shop. The YouTube channel covers after-hours special projects, and aside from demonstrating that Robby is a wizard with a paint gun, you can pick up a lot of tips on body work and paint prep by watching. https://www.youtube.com/c/RobbyLayton

It's easy to check if your limited slip differential i still limiting. Block the front wheels. Jack up ONE real wheel off the ground. Vehicle in neutral, parking brake off. Try to rotate the tire by hand. If it turns easily, the LSD isn't working.

Starts but dies? Bypass the fuel pump ballast resistor and get back to us.

Could have been a mouse nest in the tailpipe.

That's probably a fair guess, but in 78 years on the planet and 62 years of driving, I have never heard of parking lights being referred to as "running lights," but there was a Jeep option for daytime running lights, so I thought it better to ask so that everyone can be on the same page.

You were told incorrectly. The side markers do not blink. In fact, in the early days of NAXJA there was a wiring modification posted to make them blink. What are you referring to as "running lights"? Parking lights, or daytime running lights? The MJs did not have daytime running lights in the U.S., only in Canada.

^^^ I missed that factoid.

Factory Jeep wheels are 5.25" backspacing. Virtually all aftermarket rims are in the 4.0" to 4.5" range. 31x10.50-15s on factory Jeep wheels will just clear the fenders and flares when the front suspension compresses, but will rub slightly on the lower control arms at full steering lock. The LCA rub can be cured by using WJ LCAs. Once you go to aftermarket rims, almost any tire (and certainly anything larger than stock) will hit the fender flares when the suspension compresses. Unless you are willing to hack your wheel openings, skip the aftermarket wheels.