Eagle

14 mm, actually. They are metric. 9/16" is the nearest equivalent in imperial units.

The Ford sockets I used to buy from the HELP! rack at Auto Zone were all metal. They have have discontinued them -- I haven't looked for several years.

Chrome looks shiny. It will not stave off rust for long unless you are willing to clean and wax the wheels fairly frequently. Brake dust+moisture ==> acid. Brake dust is death on wheels. That depends on the wheel backspacing. What is known: on factory 15x7 rims with 5-1/4" backspacing, 31x10.50 tires will clear the body work but rub slightly on the lower control arms at full steering lock. (This can be fixed by using lower control arms from a WJ Grand Cherokee.) So if a 7" rim has 5-1/4" backspacing, that puts the centerline of the tire and rim 1-3/4" behind (inboard of) the wheel mounting surface. And a 31x10.50 tire is typically not 31" in diameter, but closer to 30.5". So to satisfy your criteria, you want a tire that's no wider than 10.5" and no larger than 30.5", and a rim that's going to position the centerline 1.75" inboard of the wheel mounting surface. Pick any combination of tire size and aspect ratio that will meet these parameters.

IMHO, neither way is correct. If you don't have a tool for packing the bearings, put on your blue nitrile rubber gloves, hold the bearing in your left hand (if you're right handed), pick up a glob of grease with the right hand, and force it into all the internal voids in the bearing. It's better to grab small globs, and refill as necessary, rather than picking up a fist full of grease and getting it everywhere except where it belongs -- which is inside the bearing assembly. Also, FYI, good wheel bearing grease is long-fiber grease, which is different from the stuff that comes in tubes for use in grease guns. The grease gun stuff is better than nothing, but if you use that you'll need to service the bearings a lot more frequently, Bearing packer: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-65250-Bearing-Packer/dp/B0002NYDYY/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1538893455&sr=1-5&keywords=bearing+packer+tool If you use the packing tool with a Zerk fitting, then you have to use standard grease. The long-fiber bearing grease won't go through a gun or the fitting. Bearing grease: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-grease-and-lube-hi-temp-disc-brake-wheel-bearing-grease-16-oz-814-16/7070071-P?navigationPath=L1*14924|L2*15038|L3*16167

Since the lowest reading on the gauge is +9 volts, I doubt very much it's in the negative. The red zone runs from +9 to +11. What number is it reading? If you put a voltmeter across the battery terminals, what does it read with the engine off, and what does it read with the engine running?

That's the way it's supposed to work. Just for yuks, I pulled out the FSM for my old 1966 Rambler American. It had the same front wheel setup (except it had drums rather than rotors). The procedure in 1966 was: Torque to 20 ft-lbs while rotating wheel Install lock retainer on the nut so that tabs cover the cotter pin hole Back off nut and retainer to the slot, and install cotter pin While you're waiting for your parts to arrive, read up on how to properly pack wheel bearings with grease.

There are no stronger cotter pins, and you don't need a stronger cotter pin. The cotter pin on the 2WD spindle does the same job as the cotter pin on a tie rod end -- it's only purpose is to lock the nut and keep it from turning itself loose. After you torque the nut the second time, there's a retainer that fits over it with the ears that engage the cotter pin. You may have to loosen or tighten the nut slightly to get the gaps in the retainer to align with the hole in the spindle. Go whichever way means less turning. Personally, I always back it off to line up with the hole. In the old days, even on the race car, we didn't torque the nut, we snugged it down (using a wrench) while turning the wheel, until there was no play when wiggling the tire when grabbed at the top and bottom. Then we backed off just enough to get the retainer to align with the hole in the spindle. Those old-style hubs use two tapered roller bearings, one inner and one outer, and they don't need (or want) a lot of preload. They just want to be tight enough that they stay in place.

The throttle cable on the '88s doesn't run from the peddle to the throttle body. The cable connects to a lever (I believe the correct term is "bellcrank") on the lower driver's side frame "ear," down beneath the master cylinder. The other arm of the bellcrank pushes a lever that, in turn, activates the throttle body. The bellcrank rotates on a hinge/knuckle joint. That can get rusty and/or cruddy. Find it, and spray it down with PB Blaster and see if that helps.

Re-read what Pete wrote. The key is "backspacing." Most of the factory Jeep rims for the XJ and MJ are 15x7. The backspacing is 5-1/4". Read this: http://www.wheelpros.com/page/offset-explained/9 As far as I know, there are NO aftermarket 15x7 or 15x8 rims that have more than 4-3/4" backspacing, and most have less than that. So that means even a 15x7 aftermarket rim is going to sit at least a half inch farther outboard than a factory wheel, and if the aftermarket rim is 15x8 the entire extra inch of width is going to be toward the outside, in addition to the extra half inch or more caused by the difference in backspacing. What size are the wheels you have, and what size tires are on them?

Yeah ... I thought about that after I posted. That'll work, too.

ES File Explorer is one of six file manager apps that I tried. As far as I'm concerned, they're all brain dead. None lasted more than ten minutes on my device. I don't think I'm destined to coexist with the Android operating system.

(1) They didn't stop building Jeeps in 1993. (2) I thought you said you couldn't find replacements.

Update: I got it done, more by accident than by design. I stumbled onto getting my desktop PC to see the tablet via USB cable, and I was able to copy the font files over from there. But I'm still terribly disappointed at just how useless the Android "file manager" apps have all been. Can anyone recommend one that actually allows to, you know, like ... manage your files?

You can use the 1157 socket for an 1156 bulb, you just have to figure out which lead doesn't get connected.

I installed a nice word processing app on a Samsung Galaxy Tab2 tablet. The big problem is that the fonts I'm most likely to encounter (including the ubiquitous Times New Roman) don't exist on the tablet. The word processor allows for importing fonts, and I have them on a USB stick with a microUSB connector ... but I can't figure out how to copy the font files off the stick to the tablet. I've tried four different file manager apps, and none of them seem to offer any way to copy files. (One of them doesn't even recognize the memory stick.) Are there any Android gurus around who can help me figure this out?

a.k.a. "HELP!" parts. The socket you want isn't listed for Jeeps -- it's a Ford socket.

Some years of the XJ/MJ used the same hub/bearing units and rotors for the 2WD as they did for the 4WD. The old-style 2WD spindles and rotors that are integral with the hub are rare. Do your rotors have enough thickness to turn them?

Cooper Discoverer H/T

The CPS is the first thing you should have checked, as several people suggested. Don't replace it unless you have tested it and found that it's bad. If you do the A/C voltage test and you're getting a good reading, then the CPS isn't the problem and you need to look elsewhere.

That usually indicates that there is air in the system, or a leak. Low fluid means the peddle doesn't release the clutch all the way, so it engages closer to the floor when you let up on the peddle.

The design of the MJ clutch hasn't changed. No, it's still not adjustable. The newest DOT 5.1 brake fluid is less hygroscopic than DOT 3 and DOT 4, but it still attracts and holds moisture. I've been using DOT 5 silicone for more than twenty years, in brakes and clutches. Silicone is non-hygroscopic -- it won't attract or hold moisture vapor from the atmosphere.

Not bad for a guy named "Knucklehead." Congratulations on the engagement. That's awesome. We need a better photo of the future Mrs. Knucklehead ...

The problem with testing the resistance of the CPS is that the test is supposed to be condicted with the engine (and CPS) at operating temperature. It's impossible to do that if the engine won't start. The AC voltage test is a more reliable test of output.

After it has sat for some time ... when you first turn on the key, do you hear the fuel pump running for a few seconds, then stop?