Eagle

Heck, grab the tailgate. It's straight, and the right person could easily patch the rust on the bottom right. What I want to know is how an Eliminator came to have base model steel wheels, a base model steering wheel, and a mini console.

Are you talking about Jeep Metric Ton springs, or springs from a Ford or Chevy 1-ton that you want to adapt into an MJ?

The missing cap isn't a part. The part is the entire horn button. Find or make whatever you like that's the same diameter and glue it in place.

I didn't. Most of you are too young to remember either Charlie Chan, or the television series Kung Fu. Don should at least remember the latter. Anyway, spare yourself the trouble. I went out to help move a tree that fell across the road in front of my house, and one of the idiots who was "helping" rolled the butt end right onto my leg. At the moment, there's nothing left here to kick.

Ah, so. Very good, Grasshopper.

There should be at least two threads exposed ... Unless you're using double-height nuts, which is what the local spring shop provides.

They are 14mm, but I don't recall the length. In a pinch, I've been able to use a grade 8 9/16" bolt, liberally coat it with anti-sieze, and hammer it through the spring bushing, but it was a tight fit. The spring itself is 2-1/2 inches wide. Add an inch to allow for hanger or shackle thickness on both sides plus a nut, and you're at 3-1/2". In metric, that's 88.9 mm. So look for a 14mm x 90 mm (or so). 100 mm would be 3.9 inches long, so that should certainly be safe, and you can always cut off any excess if it's too long.

Then you don't understand what death wobble is. Death wobble is any time a shimmy, wobble, or whatever you want to call it in one wheel on an axle is transmitted through the axle/suspension to the opposing wheel on that axle and the opposing wheel then begins to wobble in a harmonic frequency that cause the wobble to escalate as each cycle on one side reinforces the amplitude on the opposing side. I have posted innumerable times that there is a difference between simple tire imbalance and death wobble, but the fact remains that if one imbalanced tire starts the opposite tire vibrating in a harmonic ... you've got death wobble. Abd death wobble is far more common in vehicles with solid front axles than it is in vehicles with independent front suspension.

IIRC, the spring eye bolts are 14mm.

How do you figure "NEVER have death wobble"? It's still a solid axle.

There are similarities and differences between the two. The one I posted has steel wheel, the one agamble posted has alloys. The color is different, and the badging on the front fender is different. But they both have the windshield sun visor. They have the same roof rack. They both have VentShade rain visors on the side windows. They both have the new style Cherokee nose, and they both have new style side mirrors on the old style doors. So it could be the same truck with a new paint job.

Those wheels were used on the '84 - '86 XJ Wagoneer, not the full-size Grand Wagoneer.

The Grand Cherokee didn't come out until 1993.

The North Atlantic Chapter of NAXJA (NAXJA NAC) was founded in Bensalem, PA, right across the line from New Jersey and used to be very active. We lost Paragon (in Hazelton) when they closed, but last I knew NAXJA NAC still did events at Rausch Creek. There have been a number of NAXJA NAC rides in the Pine Barrens, and a number of years ago we teamed up with several other off-road clubs to do a huge, all-day clean up in the Pine Barrens park.

Looks a lot like this one, that I posted a pic of a couple of years ago. I found the photo on the internet, and I had no idea where the truck was or who owned it. Definitely custom.

I would rate the aluminum "Dana 44" below the Dana 35. My '88 Cherokee has over 287,000 miles on the Dana 35, and it has been wheeling at Paragon in PA, on some trails in Rhode Island, and several trips to the Mohawk Trail area if Massachusetts. My '99 Grand Cherokee had to have the rear differential rebuilt around 5,000 miles, and it was whining again when Chrysler bought the turd back from me before I had it a full year.

That's likely correct but, as none of my Renix-era vehicles have cruise, I don't have any first-hand experience or knowledge.

Does this mean you were able to change the needle orientation on yours? Have to checked it against a diagnostic tachometer to verify that it's reading correctly now?

You would have to shorten your drive shaft approximately 1 inch if you don't do a lift at the same time. Same applies if you do the Chrysler 8-1/4"

You can also use a speedometer from a late 87 thru 90, but you would need a new speedometer cable because the end that attaches to the speedo head is different. (Although in a 30-year old vehicle, a new speedo cable isn't a bad idea.)

Then what are you going to use for a shoulder belt? I assume you mean yank on the seat "belt." No, it's not locked if you yank on it -- it locks under crash conditions.

If both axles are open diffs, you can still flat tow without the true neutral transfer case. If either end (or worse, both ends) has a locker, then it gets a bit dicey. The real problem comes if trying to tow on a dolly with the rear wheels on the ground and the front wheels lashed down. For that, you absolutely need a true neutral ... or else you need to remove the front drive shaft.

Found this: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/true-neutral-plate-1076065/ So if the true neutral came in with the TJ, what year did the TJ replace the YJ? I'm pretty certain the YJ and TJ shared the same 231 transfer case that the XJ and MJ had in the same years.

The tenths roller works, and you didn't say the speedometer doesn't work so I assume that's okay. From your screen name I assume we're talking about an '86 MJ, so you have a mechanical speedometer. The fact that the tenths (and, I guess, the speedometer) works means the cable isn't the problem. So the problem is in the odometer mechanism itself. As far as I know, unless you work in a speedometer shop there are no how-to manuals for repairing an odometer. The Jeep factory service manuals certainly don't discuss it. You could pull the cluster out of the dashboard, remove the speedometer from the speedometer, and then remove the odometer from the speedometer and try to open it up to repair it. The closets I've come to doing that was swapping an odometer from one cluster to another to maintain the correct mileage on a vehicle that was getting a cluster replacement. The Jeep parts manual doesn't list the odometer as a separate part -- they list the complete speedometer head with the odometer. So the simplest answer is to just replace the complete speedometer. The '86 uses the old style speedo cable, so your direct replacement would be from a 1984 thru 1986 (or maybe early 1987) Cherokee or Comanche.