Eagle

Why not, indeed? Depends on the price -- someone closer might prefer to buy the complete doors.

My brother was into Nissan pickups. After his first one rusted so badly that the frame broke, he went looking for a newer one. He's in Connecticut, the home of liquid white chassis eater road solution. I suggested that he look at trucks from the south and southwest, but he didn't want to spend the money to travel that far. So he bought a used Nissan from ... Maine! Once he got it home and started maintaining it, he must have spent at least $3,000 on rust repair and replacement -- on top of the price he paid for the truck. After a year, for what he had in that truck he could have bought a rust-free truck in Arizona and flown himself and his wife there for a vacation before driving it home. It's like the guy used to say in the old Sunoco oil change commercials: "You can pay me now ... or pay me later."

The fire was/is an incredible tragedy and I'm sure we all mourn those who didn't survive, as well as all the homes and lives that have been destroyed. I'm glad to know that you and your family are not only okay, but that you're busy helping others instead of dwelling on your losses and licking your wounds. Don't be a stranger. You're family around here.

After driving with manual windows and manual locks for thirty years, I'm planning to convert my best MJ to power locks and windows. You may not want those doors (or the goodies inside them), but someone may.

I have a hulk of an '86 XJ V6 auto. It has 3.73 gears.

Keep in mind that what you can't use, someone else might be able to use. I would look at things like instrument cluster, fuel pump and sender, cross member, fuse panel (the one under the dashboard), vacuum reservoir (the "football" behind the front bumper), wiper motor, heater blower ... things like that.

Most of our members who have experienced that leak have been able to cure it using JB Weld. Perhaps you didn't clean the surfaces enough before applying the JB Weld.

Sorry, at this point I have no idea. I don't even remember where I bought it, and I can't find the receipt.

Did you adjust the valves with the engine at operating temperature? It's been a long time since I tinkered with adjustable valves, but my recollection is that the adjustment should be made at operating temperature.

I put an aftermarket tank in my '87 several years ago. Unfortunately, it was long enough back that I don't remember whether or not it had the sump baffle. I think it did. I didn't notice any sense that it was significantly thinner than the original tank. Eagle approves. "keep forever" =/= "scrap heap." Those words are music to my ears.

What year and what engine? If you have a 4.0L engine, there is no PCV valve.

I've had the TrueTrac for 15 or 16 years, but not that many miles. Maybe 25,000 or so? The truck was never used as a daily driver, and it has been off the road for a few years because when I started having health issues I couldn't afford to pay licensing fees and insurance on a vehicle I wasn't driving. I can tell you that it locks up more positively than the Trac-Lok (which I have in all my other trucks and XJs except the 2.5L MJ), and even in snow with the light tail of the MJ I virtually never needed to use 4WD. At the same time, it's completely transparent to the driver -- no clunks or bangs or oddball handling characterists. The TrueTrac was in the MJ when I was active with NAXJA-NAC and it survived multiple trail rides at Paragon Off-Road park without a whimper. If you can afford the extra $100 or so over the price of a Trac-Lok, IMHO it's definitely the way to go.

I've mentioned this before, and if you've tried all the usual fixes with no success, look into this one. On the Renix 4.0L, the throttle cable doen't run from the gas pedal to the throttle body. The cable goes through the firewall to a bellcrank assembly that's mounted on the frame extension, down beneath the brake reservoir. From the bellcrank, there's a rod that extends up to push on the throttle body. What I've found on my '88s is that dirt and corrosion get into the bellcrank pivot and interfere with free movement. This can cause intermittent high idle. The fix that has worked for me is to spray the bellcrank assembly, concentrating on the pivot, with PB Blaster, while manually pushing on the rod to the throttle body to rotate the bellcrank and work the Blaster into it. That has always fixed the problem for me.

Slight thread drift, but amusing (or not!): In November of 2010, my late wife and I were in her native country to finalize the adoption of her granddaughter. The process included a double hearing before a magistrate of their equivalent of something between our Probate Court and some slightly higher level of civil court. In that country there's an entire division of the judiciary devoted to marriage and family issues. We weren't allowed to have an attorney, but the government agency that oversees adoptions sent a social worker (whom we had met previously, when she came to where we were staying to do an in-depth interview), and an attorney. The social worker didn't speak any English, but we muddled through the interview part with my limited conversational Spanish. The agency attorney did speak English, moderately well. However, her knowledge of American history was, shall we say, somewhat erroneous. We had the hearing before the magistrate. First, the granddaughter had to go in alone and be interviewed by the magistrate. Then the granddaughter had to wait outside while my wife and I were quizzed by the magistrate. That was a strain on me, because the attorney wasn't allowed to translate for me, and the magistrate didn't speak any English. I guess I didn't make any serious mistakes, because the adoption was subsequently approved. But I digress ... After the hearing, but before we had any idea how the judge would rule, we all walked out of the building together and we were discussing the fact that we Americans were going to miss Thanksgiving. The attorney proceeded to explain to the social worker that the first Thanksgiving was when the Pilgrims invited the Indians to a feast and then slaughtered them. I had to explain that that's not exactly how it transpired. I always wondered where she learned that particular nugget of misinformation. We now return you to our regularly scheduled discussion of ... food.

You could always go with the Trac-Lok. They work pretty well as limited slips go, and should be good for at least 100,000 miles or so (166,000 km). Last I knew, a new Trac-Lok cost about 2/3 what a new TrueTrac was going for. Of course, with the TrueTrac you don't need the special joy juice in the diff lube ...

I can't answer your question about compatibility with the Ford Dana 35 diff, but I can say that I have a TrueTrac in the rear D35 of my 4-liter '88 MJ and I have been VERY happy with it.

The ballast resistor was introduced in the 1988 year for the purpose of reducing pump noise. The 1987s didn't have it.

No, we are Jeep Truck lovers. The Gladiator was a truck. The Willys 463 was a truck. The J10 and J20 were trucks. The Comanche was a truck. This new thing is a Wrangler. It's more like a 4-door reintroduction of the CJ8 Scrambler, rather than being a purpose-built truck. They should have just called it "Scrambler."

Ummm ... just "No." Not even, "No, thank you."

That's not a choice. We have a saying among my Jeeping compatriots: "Friends don't let friends buy from Rusty's." I was involved in the very beginnings of NAXJA when it evolved out of an older Cherokee forum that went defunct when the one guy who had started the forum solicited monetary contributions to "help pay expenses," then took the money and let the forum die. A bunch of us who really missed it anted up a bunch of bucks, and NAXJA was born. Rusty's was around then, starting up either shortly before or shortly after the birth of NAXJA, almost twenty years ago. Some of his stuff was junk, other of his stuff was outright dangerous. If your choice is a 3-inch lift from a quality manufacturer or a 4-inch lift from Rusty's -- take the 3-inch lift and give thanks to the deity of your choice that you didn't throw money at Rusty's.

Not "they were just imported." "It" (as in the only one) was imported.

I do. I need a boring (reliable), utilitarian vehicle with enough room to occasionally carry a couple of passengers, have a moderately useful load bed, and not cost as much as a starter house.

No actual trucks. The article says they built one prototype.

Crew cab pickups with short (about 5-foot, I think) pickups are very popular all over South America. But they're not all tricked out as $50,000 to $75,000 rolling living rooms, they're regarded as work trucks. My wife and I rented one for out honeymoon: