jtdesigns

Got the new China track bar put in today,, and as I figured the hardest part was fighting the cotter pin...... Took it for a quick drive and she's still lose..... What would my next step be?? How exactly are you spose to tighten the gear box up?? I think its real sensitive isnt it???????

I'm sorry but that is one of the funniest things ever sounds like a prank or something. lol sorry Pete not making fun of you sounds like somthing I would try. :laughin: Make all the fun you want, it was a bonehead move for sure. :roll: I'm not the only person to think of it though. A few months ago I was able to discourage someone from trying the very same thing. Life is all about passing on knowledge. :cheers: I wonder who that was.... :D

How about where the engine mount bolts are??

if you were in WI you could buy 2 parts trucks with that money... :D

If your asking me, It is actually the type of stuff used to insulate pipes and stuff. But it also come in sheets. Ill see if i can find it again. I think you got it a lil wrong,, its frost king. Used here on a VW Van

Hey you wanna deliver pizzas down here close to Harrisburg? I can't for the life of me find anyone who wants to work weekends. :brows: Hey Chico I worked for this Italian restaurant like from when I was 16 to now 32. Still I might go there and cook me a cheese steak on the flat top ( you know cause I got it like that) but we made the best "PIES" ever.. Just thought I'd hi jack this thread to let you know,, no matter what I bet you a cold one I can out cook you on a oven.. :brows: :D :cheers: Dude you should try to acquire you a CO2 tank from a job for a air system...

Not sure I understand what your asking about width. Like the outside diameter of the black plastic sleeving or the inside spring ends?? My new cable seemed like it had a slightly larger OD. The ends, not sure, my old cable didnt have any. I don't know if I was suppose to do this, but I used some synthetic grease to coat the "springy" inside cable then put it in the plastic "tube" all lubed. I hope I don't run into problems later because of that, but the cable wasnt very much $$, so if it self destructs Ill just go through Brent for a REAL replacement....

Really.... thats not bad at all... my phone has a 2 mp pic quality but it still has fuzzy pictures. Not that bad if your outside or under some bright light,, but you know for those low light pics.... :brows: yeah it sucks for those..

not that it was a big,big problem I just had to push the cable past the spot where it goes in the trans. I just hope it doesn't bind from the extra large 90* bend....

Would a foot be about the length of said transfer case?

Just installed a new one from Advanced........... and lets just say it was about a foot longer then the oem... :roll: My trucks a 2wd would it be a better fit if the truck was 4wd?

Guess you're talking about the inner bearing on your 2WD, si? The race for the inner bearing is in the rotor hub. I've seen two different rotors, one with replacable races and one not. I think the HOs started the replacable races. If you replace the inner bearing, you got to pull and replace the seal too. Always wise to replace both inner and outer bearings. And it's normal for it to flop around until it's seated on the spindle. BTW, when tightening the spindle nut after everything's back together, rotate the rotor while tightening the nut to 21 ft. lbs. torque to seat the bearings. Then loosen the nut 1/2 turn, rotote the rotor again and tighten to 19 in. lbs. torque Thanks Don!!! :thumbsup:

I just pulled my left front hub off and my bearings look great,, but the rear bearing is making me second guess things... Because; 1. The rear bearing dosent seem to have a outer race and 2. It s really lose flopping around inside the hub. but with all the movement, if I let the bearing kinda drop (hard explaining this) feels like it snugs down on a race, but I swear I can't see a race on the rear bearing.. I really don't want to pull the rear seal. Its in very good condition too. Plus, I don't want to go through the crap of riding to the parts store, ordering, BUYING, going back, blah,blah,blah... I guess my question is does this sound normal??? ok Ill check back later cause I have everything just sitting out there now clean, but uncovered..

I would say it would make it a whole lot easier to install the input shaft into the tapered hole in the bushing. lat the flat side fit up next to the crank.

:D :oops: A gentlemen never tells........ I did take some good pictures with my phone, but a phone just SUCKS! Bad lighting and low pixels make for some crappy photos.. I will not forget you guys though,,, I'll have another camera soon.... :brows: Thing is the pictures will have to be "ok'ed" by model before published.. :roll:

Same here, $700 for a 96 transfer case chain is slapping, but you can find them a dime a dozen Image Not Found

If you will get me all the measurements of the bushing, Ill cut you one out on the lathe. It would only take like 10 mins or so.

I know we are arent we,,, :D the bad thing about it is not "everyone" down this way even know or care about these disappearing trucks...

That is the tube that fits on the rear of the VC and runs right with the fuel rail and bends off to a nipple in the intake manifold between the throttle body and first intake tube runner. It'll be what pulls the crankcase fumes/blow-by out of the top of the engine. The front line (bigger OD) is where fresh air will be brought into the VC if needed; at the same time that front hose runs from the VC to a connector that snaps together with like 6 more plastic vacuum lines and then goes to the air box lid/cover. When that small OD line on the rear of the VC gets plugged, or the bushing swells up and chokes any negitive pressure the blow-by/fumes will then be sent to the air box, because of what is called Venturi effect. The Venturi effect is simply suction from air being pulled from the atmosphere into the engine also pulling the fumes out the front tube and with those fumes oil gets pulled along to mainly because of a reed valve type of baffle thats not present in a hidden front tower under the VC. So when the the fumes and oil go through the front the oil will drip down into the air box and then start to leak out from the inner fender. At least thats my theory on what goes wrong when it doesnt work as it suppose to. whew...

just fill it up and go by millage until you can find a fix.

Dorman Crankcase Vent Tube: HELP!®; 1987-1990 Jeep Cherokee with 4.0 liter is what I got from your link

<> put http://in front of your link then behind it. To do what I just did put your tags like this READ/ CLICK HERE, blah,blah,blah And it will show up like this.. <>

Only thing I really know of for mud is on private land,, Tellico is only like 2 hours west of you though... I just got back from Boone, NC some d@mn good trails there too...

I'm really disappointed that I didnt get any really good pictures of her, because she looked awesome after the whole thing. She was glowing pretty brightly and I did try on my phones camera, but that glow didnt show up like what I saw with my eyes..... :brows:

I live about an hour from Spartanburg. About 30 mins from Gaffney, SC.