jtdesigns

Oh yeah she was very happy.. :thumbsup:

19 millimeters = 0.748031496 inch and yes its either one for the track bar end, 15mm on the bushing/axle mount side.

Call the PO and ask them if they used Brad Penn oil in it..

Well...any updates on when the makeover happens and when we will get to see pics :brows: Yelp! She went to do the whole make-over thing... Got her picture in the paper.. We have been swamped with school and jobs and all I only got a few good high res pictures. here's the ad the paper had in it. Image Not Found here's the only pics I took of her with my moms cam (READ: better then using my phone) Image Not Found Image Not Found And one to compare to... Image Not Found

I have a can of 2-part clear I picked up at the paint store. It has a valve you "pop" on the bottom that mixes the hardener for you then you just spray it. It was pretty expensive at 20 bucks a can but it is somewhere around 25 oz of fluid. Havent used it yet. The bad thing about it is it only has a shelf life of about 8 or 10 hours, but thats pretty good for clear... It was made by SEM I believe.

You guys do all this crazy moddin but you never share.......... :cry:

Yeah man thats the thing, the nut is turning the ball joint inside the track bar.. I'll work it out, I just hope that makes her drive better instead of something else.... Put a jack directly under the tie rod end and that "should" push the taper into the bracket hard enough to hold it from spinning while you remove the nut. Remember that there's suppoesed to be a cotter pin through the stud and castle nut. I assume you either removed that already or it may have been AWOL. If the latter, that may explain the problem. Gezzz E-man... Now if I left the cotter pin in there how would I've been able to put my gear wrench on it!!!!! lol... Yeah I pulled the cotter pin out,, It was a big PITA, because I was trying to bend the ends straight(with no success I should add) ended up just using some side cutting pliers and yanking it out bends and all... Now putting the cotter pin BACK in and bending the ends is going to be fun!! Theres not alot of room for my fat fingers in that mount.... :D I hope I have a few mins in the morning before we head out to try the jack on it.. Well see............... ;)

Yeah man thats the thing, the nut is turning the ball joint inside the track bar.. I'll work it out, I just hope that makes her drive better instead of something else....

Tried everything you guys suggested, except jacking the truck up. Pry bar between the mount and bar= no go,,,,, Tie rod separator = no go (theres really not that much room to swing my mini sledge) My vise grips are just a tad to wide to fit in the space. I do have enough room for a saz all though!! :brows: But I'm going to try the jacking the front up at that point before I start to do surgery. I'm going to the smokies tomorrow so I may not get a chance to do anything. I did check Advanced for the part,, 27.?? for China made, Rock Auto had a Spicer for the same price. Is spicer made in China???

Well just as yous said the ball on the trackbar was lose,,,, best thing is its spinning to,,,,,so............ :headpop: :headpop: :mad: :rant: :rant: :wall: :mad: :headpop: :evil: :grrrr: I'm going to go price a new one from Advanced and see if I can just either cut the old one off or find a narrow enough pair of vise-grips to fit on the ball stud..... :headpop: :headpop: :mad: :rant: :rant: :wall: :mad: :headpop: :evil: :grrrr: What a PITA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I just do a picture text to my email. No cables just send it to my email instead of a number. You do get a extra charge for it if you don't have the plan though. Oh yeah one more thing photobucket lets you text the picture straight to your account if you choose.

If the paint molecules don't like each other then the same thing that happened to CW's truck will happen.. If anybody wants to do that they should make a test panel to see if everything will work out together. I pain in the arse but not as bad of a pain if you shoot it and the whole thing bubbles up... Yeah a test panel is just a square of sheet metal primed,sanded,based, and cleared; just like what you would do your truck.

Fail safe...

Cool,,, Thanks fellows... I didnt even know the TB mount had any bolts.. I'll check it out tomorrow.. Also that ball jointed end of the track bar.. Time to refill my pb blaster bottle i guess ok so tomorrows list is; [*:2zymskoa]track bar bolts [*:2zymskoa]track bar mount bolts [*:2zymskoa]upper control arm bolts [*:2zymskoa]lower control arm bolts [*:2zymskoa]ball joints [*:2zymskoa]steering box adjustment [*:2zymskoa]steering stabilizer (I really don't think it even has one) Anything else while I'm under there????

Did you replace the bushing? I saw some two piece ones for 10 bucks at rock wouldn't be a waste to change it would it?

. . . Thanks guys I will try to get to all these solutions this weekend. I'm pretty sure it doesnt have a steering stabilizer on, so maybe thats it... Did 2wd's have that? I did do that, I will check again, but you say to turn the center stud right and tighten it,, Roger that.. Got it, I didnt check with a crow bar, but I kinda did an inspection on'em when I was redoing the brakes.. Will check that way too.. I did check the track bar when I saw the body shift when it was up on blocks,but it "seemed" tight. I'm going to go ahead and tighten that bar to frame nut. I think I should jack it back up ad have someone turn lock to lock and see where all the movements coming from.. One more thing though,,, To check the rear shocks I pushed on the rear side of the bumper and noticed the truck kinda bounce around when I let go. This is a sure fire sign of shocks being blown(I was told long ago) But would the rear shocks cause alot of the undesirable mentioned symptoms?

What should be the best thing to look at since my truck drives like my CJ with 35's on it did??? The steering is really really lose, it tracks like a bumper car, and very hard to keep going down the road straight!!! I know I need rear shocks but would rear shocks make that much of a diff??? When I had it up on blocks I could turn the wheel lock to lock and the body would shift, side to side at full lock, but the track bar is tight. The tie rods look good, just got them all greased up good. I can rock them back and forth (like twist them on the same axis as the wheels turn) They twist, but not anything like it shouldnt. Whats a good test of the ball joints?? Jacking the front end up checking for play???? UGHHHHH ..... I want a tight handling truck. I know they used to race these trucks on a track, but this truck is WAY lose... ANY HELP????????? PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!

I wish I had JY's around here with 1/2 price days... :roll:

I think if its a auto it should have a 4:10 ratio.. I'm pretty sure because I'm always looking for that set-up,,But I think thats with 2wd.... :hmm:

:thumbsup:

Looks more like the CCV valve spraying oil.

Man Don those looks really good.. 1/2" holes??? Why so big??????

Jim your like the man when it comes to helping ppl out and providing the research for self help.

Its some kinda big party in Nevada. I think its all the Dead and Phish followers that make some CRAZY looking cars and trucks.. Do a google.. Looks fun I guess...

Air Soft M-4???