Motion Offroad

Matt @ Formatt Fab no longer makes them either; or at least last time I spoke with him he said he's not making any more products at this time. The only one's that are "production one's" are the Warrior one's that you linked to on our website. Just be aware that with the Warrior one's you do have to cut your hinges for them to fit.

4.5" spring = 16.5" LCA 4.5" spring + 1.75" spacer (6.25" total) = 17.25" LCA I still don't know why Rusty's sells a 4.5" coil with a SOA rear lift... :roll: Going SOA will get you right at 6" of lift in the rear (based on if it's a 2wd or 4wd); you'd think he'd know that but apparently not... :nuts:

I'm 90% sure Libby 8.25" rear brakes can not be made to work on the XJ 8.25". If you can it's not easy... Look into ZJ D35's with the rear disc brakes. Besides enlarging the center hole just a smidgen they bolt right up. We're actually in the process of doing it on a 8.25" this weekend... :D

Being that the NP242 never came in a MJ your probably not going to get many answers. Driveshaft length will also vary greatly on the amount of lift your running and if that lift is achieved via SOA or SUA. It's recommended to lift your Jeep (if you are), get everything in, than measure what you need. I can almost guarantee you that having a driveshaft made prior to doing all this will just cause you a headache and more money down the road. Just wait and do it after you've got it all buttoned up. Just our penny and a half worth...

I've heard several problems with the RuffStuff covers fitting. So bad to the extent that guys were having to re-drill holes to get them to align properly. Maybe Dan @ RuffStuff has resolved the issue now; I dunno... Here is another alternative to the "cheap" 8.8" cover. In stock, lifetime warranty, trusted name, and under $100 to your door. http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... cts_id=311

We've seen it in person. It's actually the 2nd MJ done by them. The other one has a camo wrap on it and looks almost identical (baja flares). It will be interesting to see what it goes for. To bad it's not a LWB.... or we would maybe just have to bid. :D

And if you do it, PLEASE don't waist your time unless you put a shaft with the 297x joints in.

What size tires will you be running? Also what type of driving/wheeling do you do? The D30 with the larger 297x jointed shafts will hold upto 35's with no major mods to the axle. If you want to run 37's it's recommended to run alloy shafts. We run 35's on the D30's with no issues to date yet, and these are on our wheeling rigs. If you want to swap something different in, look into a Dana 44 out of a Grand Waggy. Requires a bit of work to get it in however...

This is correct. Our MJ rails only work on the SWB MJ's. For all we know they bolt up to the LWB's models. We honestly have never tired and do not know if our's would fit or not. The wheelbase is different among models and the rear "frame" kicks out differently in reference to how our's mount. And yes, we're still looking to get our hands on a LWB MJ for a week or so. We still have not had much luck finding one for cheap to buy to build parts off of. Nobody seems to want to step up and let us borrow one either...

I give you props for wanting to build your own cover. However even with a "rock ring" or similar your still running the factory thin cover under it. With that type of setup I can't say how many times I've seen someone catch their diff on something more often simply for the fact they have that on there. Full replacement diff covers are cheap and offer greater protection; not to mention your much less likely to get hung up with one. Some of them (Crane/Riddler) even are seamless and you won't ever get cought on something with one. If you want some idea's for a "bolt on over your existing cover" setup check out the Warn and Zone one's; http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... &cPath=129

Pacesetter makes a header for the Renix era XJ/MJ and includes a down pipe. It's cheap compared to the Borla one... PM us if you want a price on it. I think we even have a few in stock.

Having the D44 makes the re-gear process worth the $$ (in our opinion). Your not going to find another set of axle's with 4.10's in them that will be as good as your d30/d44 combo you currently have. If you find a D44 setup for a MJ with 4.10's in it than go buy a lottery ticket cause it was your lucky day. They just are very very rare. We sell Alloy USA gear sets for under $200/set. So figure $400 in gears, than another $150 for master install kits (kits consist of bearings/sleaves/shims). Install is going to vary greatly on location and if you can find someone who knows how to do it. A shop will most likely charge you more than just a local guy doing it. I'd recommend trying to find a local Jeep club and see if anyone in that Club is experienced setting up gears. Typically guys will do it for cheap so they can buy new Jeep parts themselves. Plus this lets you "watch" and you'll learn something as well.

You mentioned nothing about what rims your going to be running (width as well as backspacing (offset)). Without that info it's hard to tell you if you'll run into any issues with fitment/rubbing. BTW, The Maxxis Bighorn is available in a 32" size. :D http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... ucts_id=50

Is it a matter of vertical height your lacking or is it not aligned correctly? You have the rubber end on the axle side and the flex joint on the mount side correct? Reason I ask if it's just short, or if it's not aligned is if your pinon axle is way off; the axle will be rotated. Thus rotating the TB mount on the axle and getting the alignment out of wack to the mount. If it's vertical height your lacking, you have the axle centered for the most part when your trying to connect it to the new HD mount correct? I guess without a picture showing the tracbar it's going to be hard to give you an answer as to what's causing it.

Just a FYI... OX lockers now have an air system that can be adapted to any new or old OX locker and does away with the cable system. Upon my conversation last week with George @ OX they are actually working with an electric option as well that can be adapted. So here shortly, you'll be able to choose cable, air, or electric for the way you want to be able to activate your OX locker. Also another FYI, OX is now under new ownership and they promise to be working on some new lockers as well. (aka the Chrysler 8.25")

RE6500 (Jeep Comanche MJ 5.5" Lift) consist of RE1345 Coils (XJ/MJ 5.5" coils) but they do also include a 1.75" coil spacer for some stupid reason. Only answer I can get from RE when we question them about it is that they say 4WD Comanche's will sit higher in the rear and the coil spacer is used to keep it "level" upfront. Rear lift will vary greatly on what axle you have, and if your using 2WD or 4WD leafs in the rear and the condition of them after all these years. We've seen most of the time 5-7" by going SOA in the rear on the MJ's (based on the above). I think RE probably realized at some point that their 5.5" coils were not tall enough in some applications and threw the spacers in to make up for it. As for the trackbar what one are you using (I'm assuming the RE1660/RE1665 setup) that came with the kit? We've installed that trackbar on several XJ's and MJ's (we actually include it in our Motion Offraod Synergy 6.5" MJ Kit as we feel it's one of the better one's on the marekt) without any issues to date. Where exactly is it hitting at?

Currie hardware uses Stover Lock Nuts for the control arm bolts. They are like that, just tighten them down.

97+ headlight buckets are different.... However a little hidden secret, just swap them side to side (older ones) and they fit on the newer 97+ header panels without any mods. :D

You should never use a SYE with a 1 piece d-shaft. The SYE eliminates the slipping on the output shaft on the TC. As your suspension cycles you angle from the TC output and the flange on your rear axle changes, thus the length of the driveshaft will change. If you go with a SYE and a 1 peice driveshaft and you flex at all you'll most likely bend your d-shaft, break your pinon flange, or destroy your t-case.

Or just bumpstop it correctly to keep the tires out of the fenders.

Go with a D300 NP231 setup. Mad Rooster as well as Box for Rocks both sell a kit to do that setup. You'll need to run a D300 flip kit (clocking ring) for it to work in the XJ/MJ.

Parts went out today. Emailed you tracking info. Keep up the good work, like where this project is going! Thanks again! :cheers:

No it does not. However with the added hitch I don't know why you'd need it as it acts like a skid plate itself.

Don't quote me on this but I think the cruise is specific to the motor/tranny combo. That being said, the stuff out of the '85 probably won't work since it's not the 4.0L motor. The part numbers don't match; so I'm assuming the systems are different.

This is what you need. http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... cts_id=211