Motion Offroad

Yeah here:

A factory ZJ skid with fit on the 97+ XJ's, HOWEVER you will need to drill several new holes in the skid plate to fit it onto the XJ's factory mounting holes (inside the frame rail). If I remember correctly I believe only 1 of the holes on the ZJ skid lines up, the rest will need drilled.

More pics here - http://www.autoblog.com/photos/jeep-mighty-fc-concept/#photo-4920687/

Here is an actual pic of it (and the F-12 concept next to it).

Tire coverage is almost identical, the flat flares are just less "bulky". And yes my opinion is the same. Here is a pic of a 15x8 rim (3.5" Backspacing) with a 32x11.5" tire with the flat flares. This would be as "little" of a tire I'd run width wise and the BS of the rim is what makes up for it (in my opinion).

My opinion is that a 10.5" tire is not big (wide) enough for bushwackers. Only way you could make it look halfway decent (in my opinion) is with a crazy backspacing of rims (2.5-3") and your just asking for issues with that offset...

Just remember that the factory one's are side specific. Also remember that they are specific to LWB vs SWB (though they will interchange). A SWB left side mount will work on a LWB right side. A LWB left side mount will work on a SWB right side. A LWB left side mount will NOT work on a SWB left side. (you get the point) We also sell some replacement CJ shock plates that'll work on the MJ's.

Some guys will simply put the shock mount plate on the top of the axle instead of on the bottom (like factory). Personally I feel that moving the shock mount plate to the top isn't worth it. With the shock mount up that high you have to run a much shorter travel shock. I'd rather run a longer travel shock and "maybe" catch the shock mount on something (though they are close enough to the tire that I doubt you will often). Another option is to relocate them with a new set of "hi-clearance" shock mounts and mount them parallel with the axle tube (or just below). Several companies make different styles. We often use them on the XJ's since they have such a low shock mount here at the shop. -Adam

Since when? H9000 HI9000 E9000

All WP bumpers are the same for the XJ/MJ. WAR560 - Standard no d-ring tabs WAR561 - Standard w/d-ring tabs WAR56050 - Standard no d-ring tabs w/Grill Guard WAR56051 - Standard w/d-ring tabs w/Grill Guard WAR564 - Winch w/d-ring tabs WAR56054 - Winch w/d-ring tabs w/Grill Guard

2012/13 JK's came in 3 orange(ish) colors. Crush Orange (Jeep) or Header Orange (Dodge): PL4 - Crush Clear Coat Dozer Orange (kinda yellowish-orange): PY5 - Dozer Clear Coat Mango Tango (also refereed to Toxic Orange Pearl): PVG - Mango Clear Coat Here is a list of the colors available on the 2012 models from Chrysler http://paintref.com/graphics/chip/chrysler_2012__corporate_c_01.jpg It's hard to say by the pic you have, but I think it looks like Mango Tango/Toxic Orange Pearl.

Don't expect poly bushings to make the ride better. They last longer, but that's about it. Rubber bushings will ride better, and be a lot quieter.

His bumper is the Warrior Products one. They are not very strong at all. I have a customer-return on my MJ and came down on it on a rock crawling and it dented/twisted it really easy. I'd honestly compare them to stock-strength; just with better lines. If it's just for looks and you plan on using factory/aftermarket tow-hooks it's not a bad option; just don't expect it to holdup offroading.

Upper or lower?

Not sure about height of tire off the ground, but she drove 90" up the ramp. If my math is correct with the WB of an XJ at 101" ; 90 / 101 x 1000 = 891

When it comes to howmuch lift you need to clear 33's it really depends on what look you like, how you wheel, and how you setup your suspension. We typically recommend 4.5" for 33's, and 6.5" for 35's. If you setup your suspension correctly (or buy a kit that includes everything needed for the height your lifting), use bumpstops, and don't go with a crazy offset wheel you'll be fine with 33's on a 4.5" lift. Heck many of us here run 33's on a 3.5" lift with VERY MINIMAL trimming on the XJ's/MJ's. I know it's not a MJ, but here is Rebecca's XJ on 33's with only a 3.5" lift and MINIMAL trimming on the front only. She's now on longarms with same lift and scores a 890 on a 30deg RTI ramp and the Jeep is wheeled often. It's all how you setup your suspension....

Can speak for the C4x4 and the Warrior as we have experience with both of them on our own rigs here. Both will require that you at least trim the flare. You can mount them both without having to trim the fender if you don't want to, but it's a tight fit for the fender behind the ends. The Warrior one could probably be made to fit without trimming anything, but it'll be awful close. As mentioned the Warrior one is not very strong, and I wouldn't recommend using it for any recovery. We've always recommended to customers who are set on that bumper to pair it with a set of C4x4 Towhooks/Brackets as that is in our opinion the best solution for recovery with that bumper. The C4x4 bumper is plenty strong for recovery. Here is an older photo of Rebecca's XJ with the Warrior bumper paired with the C4x4 Towhooks. This is the best sideview I could find for you to give you an idea of how far it wraps around. She's trimmed, but you can get the idea of where the flare would fall if it wasn't trimmed.

There are a couple companies making a NP242 SYE kit. Rubicon Express has for years (maybe even before TW even offered them) and are a heck of a lot cheaper than the TW kit....

Uhm... they do...

If you switch your existing headlight buckets from side to side they will work with the new header panel.

When we swapped the AMC20 into our Green MJ we just went to Napa and purchased the straight lines with fittings already on them. They sell them in different lengths with fittings already crimped on the ends. We just measured an aprox length that we thought we needed and purchased the lines that were close. We than just hand-bent them to fit the contour of the axle. They have held up thus far.

Looks to me like it's the RE1660 tracbar. If it is, it's upside down and is missing the required RE1665 bracket.

http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_sk2x.htm Only have experience with the original SK2X kit, no first-hand experience with the new SK2XC (cable) kit.

When we swapped a 242 into our old black MJ several years ago we couldn't get the NP231 lever to work correctly with it (242TC). We ended up going with the Novak setup as it looked like the NP242 lever was going to have to be modified as well. Maybe it was because it was originally a 2wd, I dunno... but the Novak setup worked great for us.

As high-end as your going to get before you start paying $100/joint for chromoly's (or similar).