pingpong

The 8.8 is a very heavy axle. I would estimate a good 350-400 pounds fully dressed. The brake rotors are some what cheap at 35 bucks a piece, but the e-brake hardware is around 30 bucks if I remember correctly. The stamped cover is very thin, and bends very easily, I strongly recommend the BTF kryptonite cover, it is extremely basher friendly, and I have had no leaks with it, even after repeated strikes against rocks. If you plan on putting a lunch box locker in it... stay away from the LSD carriers, just harder to find one to fit in it. The drive flanges are tuff, and expensive. The chepeast I have found one is 26 bucks, all the same I recommend carrying at least 1 spare if not 2

I was just wondering why you were not running them full width.

Hey Hot rod ... you wouldnt want to come off of those tsls would you :D You all got me beat on tires..

I would be looking at different front axles then the stock d30. Also it isnt that much more work to swap in the stronger NV4500. Its all about choices. As for the Np242. It is a fine t-case as long as you don't mind the lack of SYE choices. Supposedly itis just as strong as the np231, just the aftermarket supportr isnt there. Persoannly my choice would be a NP435, and a 2o3/205 doubler behind it :wrench: it might take a lil more work, but with a crawl ratio somewhere around 100 to 1.. it would be all good :cheers:

It all depends on how much you like yo use the skinny pedal, and how much traction is present when said skinny pedal is mashed if you are like me... you can break 4340 dana 30 axles on easy crap :eek: but with some sane driving.. it should be no problem

I had a shop do all my tube work. It came out really nice. Now I am thinking of buying my own bender and Bendtech SE and trying my hand at it. The worst thing that can happen is.. I have an expensive tool that I can't use.. not like that has ever happened before

I just have a few comments. Why did you make your spring mounts so tall, and with no triangulation? This will cause major spring wrap. The UBE's look cool, I just hope that plate is thick enough, I see some one all ready answered your how to get the retainer ring out for you :brows: been there done that. I am still unclear as to why you cut the C's off one axle to install on another... can I get some clarifcation on it please? I should get some more work done On casper today.. I will post some pics myself later tonight

When that tie rod fell on my head, I went to the ER and all they did was put some sterile crazy glue on the cut. Moral of the story save your cash and use the crazy glue. Man that look like it hurt :eek:

vents in the fenders!?!? who needs fenders?!? :brows: my thought process is starting to work :nanner:

That sounds about right. The easiest way to get the rear most bolt on the passenger side is by holding the nut on the inside, and screwing the bolt from the outside. Just a lil bit of a PITA, but can be done

Also cutting brakes are designed for rigs that can do front, or rear digs only. The advantages are minimal at best. Brake biasing is an easier form of what you are talking about and works just as well, but it doesnt require mods as much. It just involves applying the brakes as you are giving it gas.

Sorry aboiut that,,, here is a pic of how we mounted the rear shackle

I think your motor mount is history.. but I might be wrong ;) On Casper the PO made a snorkle of sorts by using the stock air cleaner some flexible tubing, and some abs or pvc pipe... can't tell you if it works, or if it lets in enough air as I have been unable to get off my a$$ and work on it lately, but this w/e is going to be nice, and I am off, so I will work on it this weekend.

I don't think those are boggers... I think they be TSL's

You are better off buying the parts through a RE suppleir that doesnt charge ful retail. I deal with a vendor whose prices are always 20-30 percent less then the makers suggested retail

Yes it is flipped over the knuckle... that is why I said check for Tracbar clearance issues. I got to looking at your friends setup, and it seems to me, that as the steering would turn right it would cause "minor" binding, and the same when it turns left. I know it looks real similar to the way the xj/mj/zj/tj axle is setup, but their shock thingy is angled. As far as the steering wheel jerking while on the trail... I barely hold onto the wheel, that way when it jerks or spins... it does it w.o my hands on it :brows:

Southlake, The key to your statement was a 95 HO xj. You can "tune" the later 4.0's, but it is almost impossible to tune the early renix style comps. You might have noticed a small amount of lowend torque, but more then likely what you thought was more power was just your foot going into the throttle more :brows:

Depending on the shackles you use, and the springs, it will cause it to look screwed up from the rear, if you don't relocate the spring perches

it appears to need a lil work ;) but keep us posted.. feel free to ask some questions as well

How far froward did you move your axle?, and what is the wheel base? Just from the pics it appears you will have some clearance issues on the front part of the fender.. unless you trim a lil :brows:

That looks way cool all the same just be careful that this doesnt happen to you

and/or a cutoff wheel :evil: you forgot to add a torch... and a welding machine is needed to put it back together :smart:

Properly balanced tires, and a good once over on the suspension would probrably tighten up that steering as well. I can't tell by the pic, but is he running mega long shackles? if he is.. that will cause the loose steering feel... it is called bad caster angle :brows: Look at the way it is setup... first check for clearance on your Trac bar, then ream out your kunckes to accept 1ton TRE's, buy some tubing adapters, and some 3/8 wall DOM and make your own, you might get some bump steer with this... BUT who cares you wil have a basher freindly steering set-up :driving:

I had a 70'Scout 800, with the 304, a T90, and dana 18 :nuts: That thing was great, except for the fact that it was an International motor ( read hard to find parts for, and low oil pressure even when in good shape), and the fact that wherever Interntional sourced the metal for these rigs rust ate them up. Back to the topic though. That would make a great start for a convertible MJ truggy :nanner: Just chop it behind the cab... and narrow the front... Add some tubing (ok lots) and cal it good. Incedentally I owned a 89 s-10 lowrider back in the day that had that same type of removable top... they leak like a b1atch, and I replaced 3 windshields in 1yr from them cracking from the frame flex

Here is my take on the whole Upgrades for the renix 4.0. Most are not worth the trouble cause you can not "tune" the engine to take advantage of it. Larger injectors just equal less fuel economy :eek: AS for the headers.. most of the aftermarket headers out there for the 4.0 only use slightly larger tubes... by no means do the improve flow, unless you get a 2 into one setup... I think Doug Thorley is the name with that style, but expect to pay big bucks. IMHO.. the best bang for the buck performance upgrade for the 4.0 is proper gearing