pingpong

This is something that I am not sure about... I will look on my H1's and see if it has the DOT stamp... I know the military doesnt always have to follow the same rules we do

When I was running stock seats, I had buckets. What I ended up doing was removing the slider, and welding some plate to the bottom, finding a comfy position, and welding the plate, and seat to the brackets.

I have used the Q-tec one.. no issues. As for the dealer.. they list for 16, but they charge private individuals out the roof for the part. Become buddy buddy with a manager from amn auto parts store/ or garage, and watch how much cheaper you stealership stuff becomes

CW looks great... I would be slightly concerned with the deflection in the bushings. I think you would be better served using solid aluminum bushings, or something similar

Take a wire bruch and knock the surface rust off, as long as it isnt deep pitting I wouldn't worry about it... I am running a set in my front axle that sat out for about 1.5 yrs, and it had some pitting... No issues to date

The whole thing with H1 rims are they are cheap for double beadlocks... I have a set, and only paid 150 for them, keep in mind you still need to recenter them... and you need to figure a couple hundred for the new centers, and an afternoon in the garage, then you also need to add a rock ring, and I think thats another 150. I know it seems like a lot.. but they are tough as nails, if you are looking for a 16.5 inch tire, and want double locks

JOMJ87 said just use a fuel cell. I put one on my truggy, and it isnt as cheap as some ppl think to run a fuel cell correctly. First there is the cost of the cell... then you need an fittings, and rubber hose... did I mention an aftermarket fuel pump, cause your stock one won't work with new tank w/o serious mods... then there is building a suitable mounting system. NOt exactly as easy as picking up the phone and ordering one of the net

Dynamic balancing works great.. if the tires are what is causing the vibes :brows:

Well Brett.. I have to disagree with you on the traction situation on the east coast. Paragon is a granite type rock and huge traction can be found, and lost quickly, Tellico is basically slick rock. Really smooth, and traction can be tricky to find, but when yiou have it... it is great. I am running a set Of Alcans on my rig, and they worked great till I chopped the rig up.. The 4 link and coilovers are coming when time and money allow. Springwrap is a combination of wheel speed and lack of traction, so if you are a right foot wheeler it coud be an issue

You don't want to do that :eek: You want to give me those axles... so I can put them to good use driving I know where just to put them :brows: Sounds like an awesome project. don't forget to swap in the drivetrain as well and put a Howeel FI kit on it. For tires and rims re-centered H1 rims, and some 42 TSL's

Try using a torch next time.. lots quicker and not as nosiy.. still need to finish it up with a grinder though.. just much faster

If you look on ebay there is a company that sells them.... I think with shipping they are around 100 bucks. Just make sure you put a new fuel pump and filter on it when you do the swap. I have a brand new one sitting in my Gaarage that I no longer need... so let me know if you are intesrested.... I need to get rid of it.. as it is in my way

Through some expanded metal over it.. that way you can see where you are going on the trail

fuel pump, or fuel pressure.... one or the other

The best is when cutting them with a torch.. you can watch the metal stretch.. then POP

The PO welded D30 brackets to the axle :eek: and used angle Iron to make the drivers side UCA mount. It is some truly poor fab work, not something I would even think of drivng on the road. I will take some pics before I start cutting the crap away

Rock sliders are your friends :agree: Almost as much as High steer and t-case skids :D

Like Jeff said when you get back to good old Virginny let us know.. I will drink a few with you... and show you what not to do to your rig :brows:

Nothern tool has them for like 10 or 12 bucks a set... they are called tractor lights though

Next time turn the heat way up... and use a sawing/poking motion

Not with the corrct cutting implements :smart: :wrench:

The rig I am working with is Rust free I think my skills are up to the task ;) I do agree this is not a project for a novice, but niether is any type of non-typical axle swap that requires welding/ fab work :brows: If it wasn't for the fact that the axle is all ready under said ride, and I have all the parts, except the mounts.. I would not be attempting this either :eek:

Good stuff here. Once I get the brackets in.. I will get to work on this project and do a small writeup on it. Cause you find lots more radias arm D44's out there then you do leaf sprung ones.... at least of the HP variety. This could end up being pretty informative for those contemplating this swap

Making the front flex, while the rear is level is not maxing out your flex. You have to force the rear tire to stuff while forcing the front tire to raise. The type of flex I think you are talking about is RTI flex, which is pretty much useless on the trail

I agree with both you and Derek, except for the fact that if PPl buy good Quality U-bolts, they can be re-used. My u-bolts were a lil more then 6 bucks a piece.. they were almost 12, but they are 5/8 and came with nylock nuts.. that I replace after each time I remove the u-bolt.