pingpong

Well I hinted about a possible new addition to the family in an earlier post, well needless to say I have one :eek: The specs on it are 4.0 Puke goat np231 Dana 30 VD dana 35 c-clip 33'" pro comp AT's Rough country lift A few other cool mods you will see in the pics Notice there are plates on this one :eek: Now the question is what to do with it :brows: Let me here some suggestions :popcorn:

OK I have owned several differnet kinds of lifts. For cheap good lift a 2" econo worked til the bug bit... then severe fender trimming and 33's :D Then I ran RE'd Drop brackets, with stock upper and lowers. It flexed and rode great. I had RE HD trac bar mount, and brace, and still run that part today. I ran Doescth tech shocks, Love them and still run them today. I have run the Terra flex Long arm upgrade kit, it flexed ok, but not as good as the RE Drop brackets. Experienced suspension bind and bad dive characteristics. I run cutom made alcans in the rear, and the work great, until I lightned the truck 500#s, now they are too stiff. I just bought a XJ with 4"'s of lift and 33's and it rides stiff as hell, you can feel every bump, and the ride quality just isnt there for me

I can tell you I snapped a 3/8 grade 8 bolt with a 2 foot cheater bar :eek: You just havent changed your steering box enough... I can swap one in about 20 minutes :brows:

The rear axle is a dime a dozen, I have 2 of them in my garage now :eek: Depending on the ratio, and the spline count dictates the price. 4.10 and 35 spline runs about 2-300 around me. For the front, a useable d44 with cast wedges around the same, 200. If it has the welded on wedges pre-77 it will more then likely have drums and be worth the same 200, but if converted to discs it can fetch 3-500 depending on condition and gearing. The pick apart charges 125 with core for axles... just a heads up

You don't think the 9'll take it? No its not that I don't think the 9 will take the abuse, its the money he spent building it, I could have built a d60. Mostly I was commenting on the D44 and 39.5 Iroks on them, and a v-8 with no alloys.... I know a guy busting d44 shafts with a i-6 and 37's :eek:

Depending on how much it is, it can be modded pretty easily, I would definately beef up the mounts, but thats just me :brows:

That needs to be made a sticky.... now if we can only get them for the rear bumpers ;)

Swap the cab of the MJ onto the frame, and do a Propane setup on it, might be a little pricey upfront, but does away with lots of other problems

Well, this is why you always watch them work on your vehicle, and verify they did thier 15 point check, the easiest way is to put a nice dirty dab of grease on a zerk, when it is still their after they do the service raise hell and get a free service.

Here is pong on 31's I know its from back in the day :D Here is pong on 33's and 2"BB It needed more trimming and bump stops to work right, but thats how I will build my next one if I ever do another

I can't believe he didnt put 60's front and rear, especially with the kinda money he spent on them axles :eek:

This is a trick question right. I have a Plasma, real nice for detail work, or metal that I am going to use on something else, by far the fastest, as far as clean up goes, but by far the most expensive when you figure out how much it costs per cut inch. Next come the Oxy torch, love it as well. Great for scraping work that has to be done quick, Also good for cutting thick metal, as my plasma wil only clen cut 3/8, so if I am cutting half or thicker, and I am going to use a grinder anyways, I am going to use what is cheaper to cut with. Then you got the sawzall, blades are kinda expensive, and you always bend your last blade when the store closes. Down side kinda slow, noisy. Grinder with cutoff wheel, great for thin stuff, and tight areas, again slow and noisy, plus balck buggers. Like I said each type of cutting tool has its purpose, it is just a matter of how much time and money you want to spend on your cuts.

WOW..... I am speaking from experience, I have an XJ with a Radias arm suspension on it ( Ford Style) and it does all right, as pointed out due to soft springs, If you consider this type of suspension Limit straps are a must, and so is spring retainers. I had a LA kit on pong that still used the stock uppers and added brackets back at the tranny x-member, and while it flexed Decent, by no means was this ideal, It seemed as if my suspension was always trying to bind under the jeep, especially in hard throttle apps. The setup I am working on now is a triangulated 4 link, I know my numbers have to be right, and a lot is going to depend on me buying the right springs for the coilovers, but there are formulas and stuff out there to help, if you input the correct data

Duner... I think You are off on this one a lil. The reason why the my is stiffer is the fact that after the cab our frames doubles in height as well as thickness. as for the frame flexing... I guess you have never lifted your rig and supported it in the middle yet :eek:

Where at?

They haven't found a buyer yet, but GM is looking at it as well as a few Private Equity firms. From all the reports I have seen and read, Chrysler is saddled with debt from its retirees, and some say the outstanding pensions are more then what the company is worth :eek:

I think the 85 4 bangers were 2, I know my first Xj was. I was reading on pirate yesterday about a guy who did the very thing you were talking about. windowing the TF727 so he could install the CPS. It didnt have a tech writeup with it, otherwise I would have copied and pasted the link for you

I am getting ready to pick up another project as is :eek: Trading away a bunch of junk for another piece of junk :nuts: There will be more on this. As of right now I am good on parts, unless... I'll give you a call.

:needpics:

What leaf springs did you use after bobbing the rig?

Was it a starter click.... it is a chevy motor.. might have to hit the starter once or twice

No.. its time to swap in a new motor :D To many times on its side, and its been rebuilt once :eek:

DC is selling the Chrysler division, so expect some changes in the Jeep brand

They sell a kit to relocate the CPS to the harmonic balancer.... kinda pricey at 400. I wish I had a spare 4.0 trans laying out. What it is. is a window that lets the CPS (ignition trigger) see the marks to ttell it when to fire the coil. I suppose with some careful planning, and machinging it sould be done to a TF727.

So when my gauge read 3-5 while running on the side it is bad :eek: