pingpong

I have a few Rusty's parts on my rig :eek: wel auctually just a pair of very used and abused 6.5" coils. Needless to say I order one product from them 2 yrs ago and it took 3 weeks to get it, and it didnt work like it was suppose to in my opinion, so I sold it and stopped using it. If any one asks me about rusty's tie rod conversion I will tell them, butI won't bash it cause it didnt work like I felt it should. Your case is very different... you didnt get what you paid for. I would do as much as I could to try and get them to correct it, including suing them. Also when you ask ppl what they think of a product take it with a grain of salt. Most offroaders are going to give you an honest interpetation of the product or situation.

Keep the crank and rods.. depending on what tranny is, ebay that, keep the t-case and put a flip kit, 32 spline out puts and a 4to 1 in it and call it good

My personal opinion would be to stay away from it, for several reasons. Look at the guys feedback comments. A lot of them had issues with his shipping, only 2 were negative, but I read at least 5 more were it said the shipping could have been better. Also I never knew Rough Country was associated with Rock Krawler. Unless he is just playing on names and words. That is what sent up an immediate red flag in my opinon. You can get quality coil springs cheap. Try calling RE directly and getting a price. also try your local 4x4 shop, they might be able to get them cheaper once shipping is figured in.

Try contacting them in a nice polite way, and explain to them what your situation is. They might be receptive if you don't start with the bashing out the gate. Try contacting them by email as well. When all else fails report them to the better buisness bearau of their state and yours as well. Since it is involving interstate sale there might be some law to protect you... I just don't know on that. Moral of this story is.... Listen to ppl on the web and wiegh out what they say versus what you think you know.

There are other ways to fix your tire sticking out further then the law allows :brows: I just pulled mine off the road cause I got tired of playing pretend that my truck was street legal :nanner: IN all seriousness, its your rig, and do what makes you happy :D My dreams and asperations for my rig are probrbaly totally different then yours

nice 3-d pic :shake:

who needs e-brakes

If you paid by credit card you can file a complaint, and possibly get some remedy faster then what you are :papers: or you can do like everyone else does and bash them :deal: but then you will only get your self more worked up.. for nothing. In all seriousness, if it is within the period of time where your credit card will hold payment(ussually 90 days) I would try that. Also if they sent you items and you have not recieved them, ask Rusty's for a tracking number, maybe that ways you will be able to see if they have really sent it. BTW.. some ppl told you so

just build an exo cage :D Then you won't have to worry about tire coverage :banana: 1200 bucks :eek: for some fenders and flairs :mad: thats insane :ack: Thats like an ARB 2 install kits and maybe a set of gears :brows: heck thats only a few hundred shy of an Atlas 2 t-case :D I would spend that kinda money on other mods besides looks :evil: but all of this goes back to one thing... :smart: it ain't my rig

Hey if it works for you.. then great :brows: I was just pointing it out, that it seemed a bit low :D My problem as of late has been cutiing sidewalls :cry: So I am installing tubes on all my tires, that way I know I can get down on the pressure :banana:

For the rear you are going to have to modify another type of bumpstop. what I did when I had a bed was weld a piece of 2x2 to the frame and then bolted the bumpstop to it.... Up front... I use my inner fender wells As for your tire pressure :eek: That was ridiculously low in my opinion. I only go down to 12psi and my rig is way lighter then yours. You are kinda lucky you didnt loose a bead at that pressure

The gears themself are the same for the D35, but the side gears in the carrier might be different. The ones from the MJ SHOULDbe, but there is a chance that you have an early non-c-clip axle. Like you all ready know the front gears are not interchangable. As for the 4 cyl all having 4.10's.... well I have seen them both ways. Some have had 3.73, and others have had 4.10's. Patrick

Keep in mind what your ultimate goal for your rig is, and regear one time :D figure out what size tire you want, then match your gears to what best suits your engine. Most 4.0's don't see the other side of 2000rpms.

Steel replacemnt fenders are cheap, and easier to fix as all you have to do is unbolt and replace. They are more basher friendly as well :evil: plus when you can buy them new for next to nothing, why spend good money on something that can be bashed. A glass hood wood be cool, but I don't think it would be much lighter then a gutted steel one :brows:

:offtopic: TJ I see you are from Richmond I am from just south of you :eek: So what trails do you wheel? Most of the fire road trails, and open trails in VA require your vehicle to be street legal :mad: and mine is no where near that :nanner: Personally I don't mind paying to wheel, that way it seperates the hardcore ones from the less serious :smart: Also it promotes the sport more. One of my Favorite places to wheel is Crozet VA. Cost is 40 bucks for 2 days with free primitive camping 8) and talk about a blast... major carnage, and super hard obstacles all in 80 acres :chillin: plus good peeps as well.

Pete, I went with the spacers on my rig out the gate, even when I had my D35 to help with rear flex. It gives you a lil more before your wheels will start touching your inner fenders of the bed. As for putting just one spacer :eek: I don't know about that :dunno: It just seems pointless to buy a pair of spacers just to use one :deal: I know of several rigs running the 8.8 and so far none have had issues with the slight off set of the diff, and as a matter of fact, I am the only one running spacers of any kind :smart:

By far TNT has one of the best kits out there :brows: Followed closely by Clayton. Fabbing your own would not be hard if you have any type of fabbing skills or know a skilled shop able to do it. There is nothing really wrong with the RE kit except it is a short arm kit, that uses DB's and the DB's work great, but they will limit you in further quest for hieght unless you buy Adjustable arms, then they will ride like crap at a certian point. Now I will critic the rest of your plans Fiberglass parts :eek: The performance mods you listed are rather inexpensive so I won't bash themExcept to say that they will give you only marginal better performance, and way worse gas mileage :brows: The OX lockers are great lockers when you convert the cable pull system to work off of air auctators. The cable tends to pull out the threaded portion on the cable, thus causig erattic engagement. A member on http://mpjai.com/phpBB2/index.php has Ox lockers, and can explain what is needed to fix the problem his screen name is Redrocket . Mastercraft seats are way over priced, try some PRPseats. Same style, you get to pick your colors, and way cheaper. Mine were 400 for the pair :banana: The electric fans :roll: Another club member who is really :mad: smart did a complete spread sheet on this mod :eek: , and considering the Alt has to work harder to keep your battery charge, thus increasing drag on the motor the gain is minimal at best :eek: You can search for his post, he goes by Renegade. The key to any build is set a budget :deal: then make a plan, and decide what is must haves, and what you would like Then research and see if any one has run a simialar set-up. contact them and ask them what they would change. If they say nothing and their $h!t works flawless move on to another contact. Everyones setup has good and bad pints, and they should be able to explain them to you. Then build your rig. Once you start don't let ppl try and talk you out of what you have done ;) or what you have planned. Keep in mind everyones wheeling style is different :brows: also keep in mind that you will eventually end up on 60's and 42's it is just a matter of time :D :nanner:

I am located in VA, but since you are looking for 3.07 axles :eek: :nuts: you don't want mine :huh???: Especially since they are 4.10's with alloy shafts, and a lock right up front, and never mind the 8.8 in the rear with armor and whel spacers :nanner: They probrably wouldn't like being under you rig anyways :huh???: :shake:

no offense taken :brows: The guys I wheel with are all on 38's or bigger, so I have issues keeping up with them on 35's, and the guys with lesser rigs on 33's don't go on hard enough trails for me :mad: So I have to take some truly stupid lines to be challenged :nanner: and this is leading to body damage on my rig :eek: I know there is no body left, but I got sheetmetal damage this last weekend :mad: BTW big tires and low gears

In my opinion if you want a rig to beat a chevy ford or dodge build one of them. A MJ is not a drag truck. As for your plan to build up your rig, there are better lifty kits out there then the RE one. I would also focus on stronger axles, there are a few of us here who can give you personal experiences in what works, and what you will be wasting money on. As for the engine mods... There is no replacement for displacement. I would personally choose to build a vortec 4.3 bore it stroke it, and maybe put some nitrious on it to make it a true stop light beater

If you want some axles, mine can be pulled and ready for pick up if the price is right :brows: I really need to swap in my D60's and put some bigger meats on my rig :evil:

Richard everything you said is 100% correct. Setting up gears can be expensive, and if not done right can be down right destructive. As for the harshness everyone talks about with the lockright up front I never noticed it, and my rig was my DD for over a yr with a front locker. You are also 100% correct about the welded spiders stressing the axles, that is why I wouldn't recommend it for a street driven rig. I run an 8.8, and the only issues I have had with my welded rear is the welds breaking on the spider gears one time, I fixed that problemn by filling all the teeth with weld, and then welding a piece of 1/4 plate to one side (still had to get the c-clips in) Percoanlly once I start building my rear 60 I am going with a 35 spline spool :banana: and some yukon moly shafts :evil: hopefully it will hold together to some 42's :dunno:

Looks great :D My suggestion is is to fab some kineda hold down using a spare stub shaft and unit bearing. Also looks kinda naked w/o a roll bar or something. BTW I dig the stack :thumbsup:

On my old rails I used 3 standoffs with self tapping 3/8 bolts, with 4 bolts on each pinch seam as well. It held up fine until I started dropping my whole rig on the rails multiple times in a row :nanner: I don't know why the bolts eventually pulled out after that :dunno:

I auctually looked at your rig on the net to get ideas for my exo :brows: Love the full widths, now tell us more about the suspension :D I see coilovers in the rear, but is it a 3 link or a 4 link and gives us lots of pis and details.... some of us have plans for that on our own rigs