Geonovast

The axle disconnect does not exclusively determine 4wd. Jeeps with a CAD system have two points to engage 4wd. The transfercase, and the front axle. Both have to be engaged to be in 4wd. Any Jeep equipped with Full-Time 4wd will not have the axle disconnect, and they began phasing out the CAD in the XJ/MJ in 91, to be completely gone by 93. A good portion of us have permanently locked it in, or replaced the two passenger side shafts with a one piece shaft. The CAD is problematic and unreliable. IMO, you are better off locking it over and forgetting about it, so it isn't a guessing game whether or not you're in 4wd when you pull the lever.

Does it appear that the clutch master cylinder ever leaked onto the fuse box?

NEW air filters are like 5-6 bucks at Wal Mart.

The Renix CPS and 96 CPS are not the same. Just using the trans, yes, you would keep your current CPS. But the CPS wouldn't know what to do with the windows on the 96 flexplate. HO conversion would involve swapping the motor, all the wiring(engine bay and dash), cooling system, vacuum system, and you would need an HO fuel sending unit.

XJ and MJ front shafts are the same, correct. The front shaft from the 96 will work fine. However.. you're backwards about the rear. The AW-4 is longer than the BA 10/5 and AX-15, so it needs a 1" shorter driveshaft than the sticks. Also, don't know if you know this because you didn't mention is, but the 96 flexplate and converter will not work in a Renix Jeep unless you convert to the 96 engine control system.

Should work fine. Your 91 is an HO. They changed the way the valve covers were set up over the years... my brother's 98 is working fine with a 91 4.0 with 91 valve cover. If you think it might be a problem, just put your 91 cover on the 94 motor. Good chance it needs a gasket anyway.

ZJ rears dropped beaterjeep's 2.5 a little more than 2" I believe, should drop a 4.0 even more.

Nonononononono. No. Get different coils.

UNLOCK THE STEERING WHEEL before you do this.

Buy yourself a gift card in-store, then use the gift card online.

And that's why they made WJs :thumbsup:

Site-to-store one. Then they don't have to know what it is, it'll just be a brown box with your name on it.

Must be your local Walmart, they're still listed on the site, and it even lists the Burlington one as having a WRT54GS2 in stock.

IIRC, older Full Sized Cherokee leafs are the same length, but less arch. How much are you looking to drop?

Just want to verify that an AX-15 input shaft out of, say, a 90 AX-15 (with the smaller pilot tip) will directly swap into a newer one, say, a 98 AX-15(with the larger pilot tip). Input bearings the same size? Bearing between input and output the same? My brother has a 98 XJ with a 91 4.0 in it. 91 still used the smaller tip, so we had to go with the CJ 304 pilot bushing drilled out. Well, we think that not being perfect may have caused a problem with his trans, so if I have to open it up, swap an older input shaft into it, and then use the proper pilot caged bearing, I'm all for that.

I don't think yours even remembers what it is anymore.

An on board compressor isn't necessary, just an on board air tank. Without a compressor, you just wouldn't be able to engage the locker if you ran out of air. Even if you don't use it, buy it, and flip it for $500. Manual > Auto. Every thing, every time.

no, not really. some random aftermarket crap, but it's not a valuable enough truck to justify quality restoration parts. a lot of stuff can interchange with Cherokees. XJs are pretty much rolling junkyards.

Can you get it on part way to use the starter trick? I've never tried that with a V-belt. Only thing I ever owned with V-belts was never driven.

Bah, shoulda figured you'd have an 86 from your SN. Yes, 86 is V-belts, 87+ has a serpentine. It would be a good idea for you to fill out the details of your trucks in your signature(see mine as an example), helps prevent confusion. :thumbsup:

You're talking a single serpentine for all pulleys, yes? You need to loosen the top pivot bolt, and the two mounting bolts from behind. Note: Loosen a few threads, not remove. On the bottom there will be a long tensioner bolt. You need to loosen the small bolt going into the retainer on the long bolt, then the belt should loosen as you adjust the tensioner. It may need help from light hammer taps to get going.

A start might be breaking down the classifieds similar to the adventure planning section, especially since it looks like(at least to me) that the classifieds gets used more than the adventure planning forum, and it sucks seeing something you'd want... then of course, it's 2000 miles away and pick up only. But it'd be a lot of work to sort out all the classifieds... again.

That's why you buy new bearings. I was only referring to buying new shafts if you'd snapped one. Personally, I'd avoid using used bearings if I could help it.

A quick google indicates that an Aussie just replaces the spiders, so you shouldn't need to depending on your gearing. Some gear ratios in some axles require the ring gear to be removed from the carrier to get the spider pin out.