Geonovast

Transmission? Transfer Case? CAD? Year? Model?

Don't know how that could have happened on a TBI motor...

Exactly, he can't do this on his own!

I'm like, never not here, so I'm sure I'll be here.

I would assume you wouldn't be a nerd and be that precise.

:banana:

Hey Pete, can you adjust the naughty word filter so it replaces stuff like 3:55 and 4:10 with 3.55 and 4.10? It's driving me crazy..

If you ask for OEM, they'll usually hand you NGKs or Champion Coppers. Don't get platinums.

Or just email Pete and he can change it for ya.

Everything needs to be swapped. Your rear axle is the same. 2.5/4 speed and 4.0/auto used the same gears.

It's too common, it would return too many results.

Fixed it for ya. on a blonde, they're never real... :clapping: Perhaps, but just to be sure, we should inspect all of them.

Fixed it for ya.

Was out house shopping today, and saw a really nice looking MJ near Community Bank of the Ozarks in Pleasant Hope. It looked kinda familiar, sorry, no pic.

The only way your procedure would be correct, is if the wheel was off because someone either did what you suggested, or put the wheel on incorrectly. For most reasons, adjusting at the turnbuckle is correct. If the steering wheel is on correctly, and the shaft is on the steering box correctly(which last time I checked, it was keyed and would only go on one way, but I may be wrong), then it must be adjusted correctly at the turnbuckle.

The H2 isn't 24 years old and has a much smarter computer.

4 cranks is normal.

This is not the proper procedure. When your steering wheel is not straight because of a lift, you need to adjust it with the draglink's turnbuckle. Doing what you suggest... yes, that centers the steering wheel, but not the steering box, and you'll still be able to turn farther in one direction than the other. This is no different than pulling the steering wheel off, and putting it back on straight. Adjusting the turnbuckle is easy. Do it correctly.

I don't think that's it, since he says it runs. But his dizzy is definitely off.

With #1 at TDC, the rotor should be pointing just past #1 post, not directly at it.

Locking the CAD DOES NOT lock it in 4wd. It still leaves you with disconnecting the front axle at the T-case. Hopefully these will help: This is what it is now, in 2wd. T-case and CAD both disengaged. Only the rear is powered. This is what happens when you pull the lever to 4wd, and the CAD fails on you. T-case engages, but because the CAD isn't engaged, the front wheels are not powered. Only the rear is powered. This is how it would be with the CAD locked permanently, or with the CAD gone, as they did anyway, with phasing out the CAD. The T-case is still in 2wd mode, so there's no stress on the drivetrain. Only the rear is powered. This is what it's like with the CAD engaged and the T-case in 4wd. This is the only way to get 4wd.

It's not an option of whether or not you use the 94 gauge cluster, you have to. ALL wiring, engine bay and dash, has to be swapped. You'll need to splice your taillight wiring into the XJ harness... I'm sure there's a write-up how to do that somewhere, since XJ and MJ tails do not work the same. XJ pump and sending unit will not work in an MJ gas tank. You need a 91-92 MJ sending unit... which are not easy to find.

Since you have an entire donor vehicle, and already plan on swapping EVERYTHING, you should be good. You're going to need an MJ fuel pump sending unit in order for your gas gauge to work properly, however. You'll also obviously need a new rear driveshaft... You're going to run into an issue with axles. Swapping the front shouldn't be an issue, but you'd have to lose your D44 rear to use the XJ rear. You will not be happy with an auto and those 3.07 axles.

Move to WI. :yes:

Just more awesomeness of the last "upgrade"