Geonovast

I was getting spark, but I do suppose it could have just been not hot enough. I dunno. I think I'm just getting to the wishing it was simple, but it probably isn't phase.

I had two spare Renix coils. Sold them a few weeks ago on CL. Even plugged them into the XJ and they worked fine.

It's been cranked a lot. Enough to run the battery dead almost twice. If the lifters were a little frozen up, I think they'd have gotten loose by now.

There's no way it got 180 off. If it's off, it's off by a tooth.

Flipping the wires wouldn't work. If the timing was 180 off, all that would do is cause it to spark when the exhaust valve is closing and the intake is opening. Definitely wouldn't run then. I'll try lobbing the ear off the old dist cap and seeing how much it lines up. That's a pretty good idea, I hadn't thought of trying that. Again, I'm leaving in the morning so this will all have to wait until I get back. Dunno when that will be.

Does it do it with the T-case in neutral?

Yeah it's the same motor. I could maybe see the EGR being a problem... if it started and then died right away. But it just cranks and cranks, just doesn't wanna kick and go. I believe I've eliminated everything but the timing. I must've screwed something up. I'm stealing my mom's extra car to get back down to MO to pick up the GF and kiddo, I'll have to deal with this again when I get back. :fs1:

Then why even bother with the 2000 block?

You can directly change the whole speedo. You won't have the tripometer, but your odo will be accurate. What years are your clusters?

Yes, I saw the motor run before I helped pull it and bought it. I don't think flipping the dist would help at all. I never pulled it out, and if the timing's off it's gonna be off by a tooth or two. I need one of those fancy $5,000 fiber optic camera thingers. However, I will check the compression. Suppose it couldn't hurt to at least see what that's at.

It's really not gonna work. Not only will you have sensor incompatability, the ports on the manifolds will not line, up, and, IIRC, the 2000+ 4.0s use a distributorless ignition. IE, coil packs. If you don't plan on changing any wiring, you need to just find another Renix motor.

Checked the fuel pressure for the hell of it and it read 40 psi while cranking. Injectors are definitely opening, since the plugs were covered in gas when I changed them. When I checked the timing before, it seemed fine. I'll have to figure out some way to be SURE the piston is at TDC and see where the rotor's at. I'm at a loss. If the timing's fine, there's no reason this thing shouldn't run. I'm stealing one of my mom's cars to go down to MO, so I'll have to figure out this crap when I get back.

Ok, replaced all that crap and still no start. Is there any way a vacuum problem could cause this? Like, at all? Also, could use a definitive way to check the timing to know if it's off. Not something I want to tear apart just to find out that it's all ok.

MATC parking lot in Madison, WI

Thanks for the rain... it's pouring here right now. Went out to get parts for the XJ, and got to splash around in some puddles. Sucks that the two 4wd ones I got are the ones that are broke. :wall:

I've worked for manufacturing companies, specifically a company that did fineblanking and bent parts similar to that for the automotive industry. It could very well trickle down to a lazy QC. It can all depend on the shift. 1st shift guy might not let anything that isn't 110% perfect go, while the 3rd shift guy might let those go out because it's less work for him. I know it sucks, but I've seen it happen, a lot.

Could have told her you wanted to stroke your 6 pack :rotf:

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I didn't either. I guess that's what happens when you spend all day outside futsing with an XJ and not watching news.

You just buy these? I'd send them back and make a big deal about it. What are these for? If it's anything structural and other people don't notice the flaws, people could get injured..

Looks flimsy, and those recovery points look weak. Might look better in person, but from the pictures, I definitely wouldn't drop any real money on it.

I'll be in Missouri. Hopefully.

The bottom of the timing cover does seal against the oil pan, although if you used the one-piece oil pan gasket, you won't need that partial piece that came with the timing set. I think as long as you reapply some RTV where the two seals meet you should be ok. I don't know where they get that you have to re-do the oil pan if you're just changing the water pump. They've got nothing to do with each other. :nuts: Hopefully somebody else will chime in... I just re-sealed a motor with the rubber oil pan gasket and a felt timing cover gasket, and I may need to pull the timing cover if I can't get this thing to start..

If I can find some help in the morning I'll give that a shot. Don't know why I didn't think of that. Probably cause my brain's fried and I'm over-thinking everything.

Used the 4.0 to jump the XJ.