Geonovast

It would appear that the two lower bellhousing to motor bolts decided to jump ship. I could verify the passenger top one was still there... dunno about the driver's. After a call frenzy trying to find out the bolt size/pitch, I limped it to O'reilly's, we figured out size and pitch... but they didn't have any long enough. I limped it to the hardware store down the road, and $5 later I had two new bolts. Thankfully everything was still lined up on their dowels and the bolts went right in. Vibration is gone, but it's still making a noise from that area. Hopefully when the truck cools down and I go out and can tighten everything back down, it'll go away. I'm hoping there's no damage to the TC or any seals.. but I'm expecting it too. At least this way, hopefully, the darn thing will last as long as I need it to.

CPS is the same. You'll need the correct pilot bushing. Also... you're going to need different driveshafts. The AX-15 is about an inch shorter than the AW-4.

He's referring to a 23 spline input. All 231s (At least the Jeep ones) have a 27 spline output.

Really? :nuts:

Also.. did you happen to grab the AX-15's crossmember? All the Tranny crossmembers are the same... except the one for the AX-15. I highly recommend throwing the top two torx bolts into your scrap pile when you pull them out and replacing them with regular hex bolts or (as Pete frequently suggests after me), studs. Pull your CPS before trans removal and replace after trans installation!

Yes, you'll need a manual flywheel. But NOT from a 96. You will need a Renix (87-90) 4.0 flywheel. A newer flywheel will be just fine with the clutch, but your truck will no longer run. Bellhousing will work fine. Bolt pattern for all 4.0s is the same. Master cylinder shouldn't make much of a difference. I would get an 89 and an 89 clutch line... In 91 they switched to a plastic line with no rubber hose in the middle. Make sure all the fittings fit properly into your master and slave before you begin to install anything.

T-case drops are pretty much useless on MJs. Wheelbase is plenty long enough to even accommodate ridiculous lifts like 8 or 9 inches. As you said, yes... makes the rear angle better, but makes the front one worse. They might be a good idea in an XJ if it's stupidtall, but worthless in an MJ.

^^ posted in here after I did. :no:

^ ^ Both post more when they're talking to each other in chat than any other time. :rotf:

^ Is deadly scary accurate with a hammer.

^^ Needs an avatar. Really, that's been driving me bananas since I got here.

^^^ Has my favorite avatar on the forum

A 2 inch lift should realistically clear 33"s... as long as you don't care about flex and don't take it offroad. However, even if it's a street-only Jeep( :nuts: ), with 33" tires you need to seriously consider regearing, especially if you're on 3.07 or 3.55.

You're probably a little low on oil. Never hurts to do a fluid change... plus the drain plug on the bottom has a magnet on it, so you should be able to see if you have any metal shavings.

Well, we went out again today and I checked the fluid... it was very low. I dumped the 2 quarts I had in, hopefully that'll do enough until I can get some more tomorrow. Now I gotta start looking for a leak... damn thing leaks so much oil I never would have noticed a trans leak.

Factory tach says around 5250.

Certainly could be the tailgate. See how much play is in it, and adjust the latch catches if need be.

I would get a trailer. The beds aren't really all the light, and you're going to fun have getting it up there... plus it'll make the XJ very top heavy.

Long bed or short bed? What specifically do you need to know?

I appreciate the offer, but if this transmission comes out before scheduled.. I'm not bothering with another auto. If it's gonna be down for a trans swap, an AX-15 is just gonna be going in.

First 2 Renix XJs I had, I flipped the grill upside down on purpose. I think it looks better that way.

Check the grounds. There's the main battery ground running from the passenger back side of the block, and a secondary ground running from one of the head bolts to the firewall. If those aren't the greatest, it may spark with the plug outside of the head, but not grounding when the plug's in the head.

Pull the plug off the coil, and crank it over a few times. Pull a plug, and see if there's any gas on it. Obviously not a CPS issue. Is your CMPs still plugged in?

You say you know it's getting spark... have you verified that, or just going on that the plugs are hooked up?

Does the fuel pump prime? Get in it, leave the door open, and just turn the key to 'on', not 'start'. You should hear a whine for a second or two if the fuel pump is priming. Did you unplug any connectors when you changed the master cyliner? (which one did you change?) Another thing you can try is pulling the fuel pump relay out for a few seconds, check the connections, and put it back in.