Geonovast

Auto shaft will not work. You'll need one from a 2.5 with manual. (AX-4 and AX-5 are the same)

Welcome! :waving:

Yes, the AX-15 is on the left. I was just pointing out that he was making his assumption on the slave bleeder... when they're in the same spot on both transmissions. Note: The pic he posted is from the thread I posted, not a picture he took.

Cherokees didn't come with the column shift, but most Renix MJs with an automatic had them.

Nope... LSD (Limited Slip Differential) is what allows you to still power both when one has much less resistance than the other. It can still act like an open if there's a lot less resistance to one side. That's why when the clutch packs in the LSD wear out, it acts like a regular open diff.

Yes... but notice the Pukey has it in the same spot. I would look at the trans itself, not the bleeder lines.

It's hard to explain. Best way to understand it would be to pop your diff cover off, leave the T-case in 2wd, crawl under the front of the truck, and turn the driveshaft by hand. That'll show you exactly how it works.

You're not too familar with the inner workings off an open differential are ya? Yes, the inner shaft would spin the correct direction, but neither wheel would actually receive power if it were to need it. If you removed your rear driveshaft, left the CAD unlocked, put it in 4wd, and tried to drive away, you wouldn't go anywhere. The spider gears would just cause the inner shaft to spin. The R&P would be spinning, 3 of the 4 spiders, and the inner shaft. That's it.

Which transmission do you have? BA 10/5 or AX-15? 89 was a transition year. If you don't know, check out this thread: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=11699 If you have a BA 10/5, toss it out and get an AX-15. There are quite a few threads on here, one of the recently, on the BA 10/5 to AX-15 swap. If you have an AX-15 already, it really isn't that difficult to tear apart and replace the synchros... if you're fairly familiar with the inner workings of a manual transmission. You'll also want a press. If that's the case, I would suggest finding a replacement AX-15, and take your time rebuilding yours. It's nothing to be rushed, especially if you've never done it before.

Welcome!! :cheers: :cheers: How'd you manage to score two in one day? Where you located? 865 doesn't tell us much. :hmm:

To top that off, all NOS bedsides I've seen were for LWBs. Unless you have one of the ultra-rare LWB Eliminators, it just makes that even more difficult.

If the CAD does not engage, neither of the front wheels will have power, unless you have a locker up front.

No, they did not. Unfortunately all the clusters with a column shift were idiot light clusters. This, however, will give you everything you need to convert a full cluster to a column shift one. viewtopic.php?f=9&t=14904

Welcome! Plenty of guys on here over near your neck of the woods, hopefully you won't have any problems finding one! Remember, a 2wd MJ or XJ isn't really a problem.. more of an inconvenience. Converting a 2wd XJ or MJ to 4wd is relatively simple if you have some wrenching knowledge and experience. :fool: :wavey:

I wanna seen an MJ flex like that :D

I've seen an MJ with an XJ axle bolted on spring over without relocating the perches. It was not pretty. It bends the springs out, and you're likely to break something rather quickly. You'll need to burn on new perches. Just use your existing MJ axle. You can even burn the new perches on without removing the old ones.

Nope, MJ leafs are considerably longer. Also, XJ leafs are farther apart than the MJ. Perch location is not the same between XJ and MJ axles. Why would you want XJ leafs? If you're looking to do SOA, there's no difference in the leaf itself. What exactly are your plans?

Why not indeed? :yes:

Probably... I can't think of what that could possibly be for.

That was on the BA 10/5, not the AX-15. I believe it was jpnjim that did it.

:drool: :drool: :drool: Shouldn't be too hard finding parts, almost everything you'd need can be grabbed from XJs.

Does it run and drive ok?

Pull the fuses and check for fluid and corrosion. I had an 89 XJ that had a bunch of fluid leak onto the box, and it caused all kinds of funky electrical issues.

First thing I would do is check your fuse box for clutch fluid. The master cylinders are notorious for leaking into the cab... and the fuse box is directly below it. Where in Mid Missouri are you?

:banana: I'll have one of those one of these days.