Drahcir495

I started taking the engine and transmission out of the 86 during breaks at work this weekend. I pulled it into the shop - I wanted get out of the sun -> The blown 2.8 -> Use the fork lift and some chain to pull out the engine at first -> I was not able to get the transmission off the engine, so I took them both out at once -> And the empty engine bay -> How does the fire wall look compared to anyone’s newer MJ/XJ? Does it look like it is already updated/clearance for the 4.0? -> I am tired today :ack: I may try to get the bench seat out tomorrow if I have time. I am dying to see what it looks like under the carpet – TBC Rich

Hey RockMJ, Welcome to CC! I am right around the corner from you. There are a few others in ther area too. A local club is having its social on AUGUST 5, 2011 AT BEEF O' BRADY'S IN LAND O' LAKES ON S.R.54 1 MILE WEST OF HWY41 IN THE PUBLIX SHOPPING CENTER - http://www.legionofjeepers.com/forums/v ... =19&t=2746 Hope to see you there - Rich

Wow - even the rims are nice on that one! Congratulation :cheers:

I got the new outer shaft from Ten Factory and brought it down to Gearworks after failing to get the new shaft on the old U-Joint. Andy put in a U-joint with a special grease fitting and got it all together for me -> I was also able to get my new hub assembly covered under warrantee at Napa. New hub assembly -> New Ten Factory spindle shaft -> They look nice together -> This is what the old spindle shaft looked like -> They had some outer axle seals at Gearwork, so I decided that I should pick those up while I had everything apart -> I taped those in using a rubber mallet and a wooden dowel -> The grease fitting is very close to the axle end, so I had to grind down the tip of my grease gun to get it to fit over the fitting. Not a big deal at all. It went in nice and it should keep the majority of crap out of there. Installed -> I slid in the new shaft and grease up the new outer seal -> Put everything back together using the information from 5-90 on the NAJA forum - “Clean and reinstall the three unit bearing retaining screws. Replacements are, I think, M8-1.25 threaded, I am unsure of length. Head style is not critical - hex head or socket head screws may be used as well. Torque these screws to 75 pound-feet. Replace the hardened washer and the axle shaft stub nut - torque to 185 (175) pound-feet. I don't have a torque wrench that goes that high, tho, so I use never-seez on the threads (after I've inspected them) and torque to 93 pound-feet, which has worked just fine for me. (That's an "old mechanic's trick" - if you use never-seez on threads, you have to reduce the installation torque by half. It sometimes comes in handy...) Replace the sheetmetal retainer and use a new cotter pin. If you have to turn the nut slightly to line up the keyways, do not loosen the nut! You may tighten it slightly, however - just enough to align everything. Put your front end back to rights and back on the ground. 5-90” And this bit of wisdom from 5-90 – “Torque is given (unless otherwise specified) for "clean, dry" threads. Adding anything that can reduce friction will actually reduce installation torque by a certain factor... Clean, Dry - 100% of given value Teflon "pipe dope" - 80% of given value Engine Oil - 75% of given value Chassis Grease - 75% of given value Light Machine Oil, Tapping Lubricant - 70% of given value Never-Seez - 50% of given value Note that threadlockers and RTV do not effect friction between the internal and external threads - therefore, you can use the full torque value for those compounds. If you were to use the full torque value when using never-seez, you run the risk of pulling out the threads. Increase the installation torque, and you're going to pull out the threads! You don't want to do that, do you? 5-90” I then headed over to the passenger side and did the same thing -> I noticed that the seals on the rear axle are leaking like mad, so I am getting everything together to do the rear disc brake conversion - TBC I also met Chip from Ox Offroad Products (Ox Locker's) today - he lives in my area :thumbsup: seem like a nice guy too.

Well done on the cuts :thumbsup: Had a chance to see if they are doing their job?

Welcome Jerry :cheers: Very nice for a work truck!

i have to 2nd this... Dayem - what is happening?

Here you go Jeepman - please tell Ray that RJ in Florida told you about the company ;) -> Ray Tirheimer 909-357-3505 Custom & Commercial Wheel Company Inc. 14547 Hawthorne Avenue Fontana, CA 92335 If you can - try getting better pricing for us on the wheel adapters :cheers:

For the life of my I can not remember???? I will go back and check my notes when I get home and see if I can't get that information for you. They are 4.99 each + core @ LKQ if you would like me to snag you a set. Thank you :cheers: Sorry for the late reply - they were out of a 93 XJ with the Country trim package and overhead console.

OMG that looks bad - she is so lucky. I am glad she was not hurt. It was a nice XJ though.

Same with mine - they are great looking tires .

Thanks - I will follow your lead in this one and try them out on the 86 :cheers:

Nice job :wrench: looks good too!

Thank you 87mjdriver - boy did that sound high though. :cheers:

Nice MJ & Welcome to the CC! Were you struggling with the old ones because the mirror finish was bad, or are these longer than the originals? I can't wait to see how the GC brake booster upgrade goes :cheers:

I was able to use my external jumper cable system before my jeep bearing and shaft issue -> I miss driving the jeep . . .

I will need to redo the headliner in this truck and I hope that I remember everything I did on the last one. I removed the headliner from the jeep -> It is in horrible shape. The PO used staples to hold the material up, so I removed the material and used some hand tools to begin pulling the staples out -> I am trying something new on this one. I have some fiberglass tape and a gallon of Lowes resin/hardener to try to stiffen up the board, before I re-cover it -> I found out that you can get coupons for up to fifty percent off at Joann's Fabrics. I found one and picked up 6 feet of headliner material for 1/2 of what I paid the last time. I will be messing with the resin before I begin to work on the headliner. I was so happy with how the vanity sun visors came out on the last job; I decided to do the same thing on this one. I picked up a set of the XJ vanity sun visors from the LKQ pick-n-pull and began to work on them -> I laid the visor on the material to cut out what was needed -> I used 3M Foam Fast adhesive to attach the fabric -> I made sure to coat the plastic visor and the foam backing-> I think I was a little too eager on this one and did not follow my own advice of not pressing on the fabric in a way that compresses the foam material. Just enough pressure to ensure that the two are in contact with each other. I have a few compressed finger marks in the material. I will do better on the next one. I trimmed up the excess and snapped the visor closed. And I ended up with a pretty nice finished product -> TBC - Rich

I am preparing to put the new hub assembly on. The Hayes manual (I do not have it here, but I had my friend read it off to me) says to torque the shaft nut to 170#'s. Does this sound correct? Can anyone who has done this please tell me the torque specs, or how they handled it? I may be responsible for my bearing failure :ack:

Check your hub assembly/unit bearing - just saying.

No kidding - wow. What type of issues did you have? I never bothered to ask (or research) if there has been any issues with the kit :no: . I know that I my CJ's that I do not have any issues with them. It could just be my luck, or the set up I have that is causing these failures? Maybe I am not installing them correctly? Thank you for adding your personal experience with the kit Jeep Guy :cheers:

:jump:

:agree: and I like the looks of them

Maddzz1 ~ I will try to translate; Hello everyone! I have been having trouble with getting a good ground. Have you ever noticed the two ground wires attached to the dipstick mounting stud? Apparently these wires on my motor have not been touched. I don't believe they were even cleaned when my friend replace the motor in 2005. I picked her up a year later in November of 2006. Whew, it is amazing what problems are caused by bad grounds! The poor electrical grounds caused some starting issues and led to poor gas mileage. Interesting story on how I detected the bad ground. I had been planning on installing a new radio soon, so I though it was a good idea to identify all the ground and power wires under the dash using my model 88 Fluke meter. No surprise - some previous owner hacked up the dash wiring. Man was I angry. I went back and checked & tested every wire in and out of the computer(including the fuel injection), and eventually to the block. I had a reading of 900 ohms before fixing the bad ground on the engine block ! After my all my hard work I have the ohms down to 75! Good job wouldn't y'all say!!! I got your back on this one cz777 - was I close???? The next time you are on your own :cheers:

Thank for sharing your "Ancient Chinese Secret" :yes: . I will try that next time - I will be sure to give you credit when I do!

I talked to Andy @ Gearworks on Friday - Ten Factory will not cover any Alloy USA warranty's :( , but I asked Any how they got the name. It is because they have a Ten Year Warranty on there products, so I ordered a new Ten Factory shaft out of Atlanta and it should be here in a few days. Napa replace the bearing free of charge :D . Thank you for the compliment :cheers: . I have never commented on your build :oops: , but I have visited it on more than one occation = 5.9L Magnum V8 Comanche :chillin: . I got a Grand Cherokee front drive shaft from the Pick n Pull. It fit almost perfect - I had to have cut down an inch. Good call - I had to use the dual sized U-joint to match up to the 44. I tend to agree with you . . . It is like the Chicken or the Egg argument. It just sucks that the shaft broke, but it could have been worse.