Alexia

$195 on sale $45 shipping $340 that I paid to the fabricator. $40 of that was a tip because he did such a good job. $200 for the welding, $100 for the finish grinding work. $580 - I could have welded it myself if I trusted my structural welding skills. Reviewing Nate's 4x4 design I would not use it for any serious recovery or towing. It does not bolt to the underside of the frame and the frame brackets do not have any side bracing to prevent bending. The shackle hangers are not welded to the frame brackets directly and rely on the four bolts holding the bumper to the brackets.

The shackle hangers on the JCR weld to the face of the bumper, the rear of the bumper, the two main mounting brackets, and the two secondary mounting brackets. They are essentially tow hooks with a bumper hanging off them.

I already have a 63mm throttle body and the supercharger opening is roughly 66mm so I have no plans to upgrade that yet. I hope people are patient on me. I am saving up for all the things I need to get this supercharger installed. $338 for fuel injectors and possibly I might need to get Brown Dog's Super Header Kit. The fan pulley bolts have already contacted the middle electric fan at least once. Then there is exhaust!

My AW4 usually shifts at 4,800 RPM and surges up to 5,000 RPM. I had already considered going to a smaller pulley to start with and I plan to see if I can obtain a 55mm pulley. The difference at lower RPMs is minimal enough that I rather go for the safer side as I do sometimes get crazy with manual shifting. :P

Crankshaft Pulley = 6.5" Stock Supercharger Pulley = 2.28"(58mm) Alternator Pulley = 2.12"(54mm) Stock ratio = 2.85 New ratio = 3.06 At 5,000 RPM the supercharger would be spinning at 14,816 RPM with stock and 15,905 RPM. That is 905 RPM past the supercharger's rating. The optimal safe pulley size would by 57mm to run at a maximum of 15,022 RPM. If I go on the fact that the AW4 typically shifts before or at 5,000 RPM the safest smallest would be 55mm to achieve 15,046 RPM.

The JCR MJ DIY kit is well designed and goes together nicely. I assisted the fabricator I hired in some of assembly and all the pieces went together very well. The JCR kit is more expensive due to all the extra pieces, cuts, and bends they have incorporated into it. The Nates 4x4 finished bumper is simple and great for getting a durable bumper. I could not recommend one as better than the other since they fill different segments of the market. The MJ market is so small that JCR took a chance just making the DIY kit after their original run of finished rear MJ bumpers bombed on them. Since the Nates 4x4 rear bumper is so simple they can easily fulfill a custom order for a MJ.

If you click on your user name in the upper right of the web site you should see a link that goes to "My Content". This link will also take you there: http://comancheclub.com/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=user_activity&mid=3157 Also at the top of each forum section in the header is an assortment of buttons. "Recently Updated Start Date Most Replies Most Viewed Custom" The Custom button has an option for time frame. Possible you might have clicked that and "Remember Filters".

It is removed from the forum index, but remains in the tabs at the top to be used like a chat room.

I can come up for a get together, but I really can not go on any trail rides with the Jeeps.

Here is what I did similar to everywhere else. http://comancheclub.com/topic/32740-alexias-1987-to-1997-comanche/page-4?do=findComment&comment=352849 I just looped the existing MJ parking brake cable under the carpet behind the seat.

Yep, I'm okay with it! The chrome came off the eBay special replacement header panel and I do not have the spare funds to just buy a black grill to see what it looks like.(Nor do I want to try PlastiDip on the grill's surface and try to get it off later.)

I collapsed it a long time ago and never payed attention to it.

I do not have any obligations this coming weekend so I would not mind meeting up for a birthday and Comanche get together.

Harness stripped, wires pulled, and right headlight connector redone with 14 gauge wire. The H4 connectors are ceramic with a plastic casing. I used Scotch Super 33+ electrical tape for sealing and Scotch Tough Duct Tape Extreme Hold in a very dark silver to mount to the factory clips. Left headlight connector and wires done. I remembered to cut the duct tape in two this time. Hella weatherproof relays and sockets.(007794301 and H84709001) Fuse holders will have 10 amp fuses to supply a minimum of 100 watts safely. All wiring splices are done with heat shrink weather seal butt splices. About five feet of wiring and a short 14 gauge ground wire to the spot as the stock harness on the left fender. The final sheathing and wrapping will done in vehicle to get the lengths correct.

Do you mean exactly on your birthday or on a weekend around it? Supposedly rain all this weekend though for the north Alabama area.

Even some completely beat up off road setups have been featured before. We do not try to make it a competition, but rather to highlight the awesome stuff going on in the community.

Thanks! Ha, yeah, it has been a year since the last one! I am sitting at home sick right now trying to also fix my LJ at the same time.

When I was up in PA for the Jeep show I picked up a factory OEM header panel from MrSimon. It was in good condition and needed some filler for various rock chips all over. I ended up not getting all of them filled, but I did the most important spots such as chips along the top edge. Parts to rebuild the headlight harness with 14 gauge wire is still on the way so I will be installing this later in the week.

Such shiny paint! *Drools* I have the four counter weight 4.2L crankshaft in my stroker and no mechanical fan on it. It is very snappy with RPM changes and the AW4 shifts through it nicely as well. The 4CW is what I would recommend for any of them just because of how fun it is.

My family used M80 bombs to deal with them. Light, drop in hole, RUN.

Nice work with the frame spacers. I have the same problem installing my rear bumper. I chose to put washers under the bumper plate for now, but that is obviously not ideal for load distribution.

Someone at the show mentioned trying to find the male and female connectors for the IAT sensor to make an extension wire. I believe it is the 184xxx-1 series sealed sensor connector from AMP. It looks like key type B so most likely 184002-1 for the male and 184164-1 for the female. http://www.te.com/catalog/bin/TE.Connect?C=11392&M=FEAT&P=10008,12078&U=&BML=10576,17684&LG=1

Maybe it looks good because your paint is a flat / satin finish? VHT paint can says gloss actually. He was worrying about small imperfections and was very oriented about small details of putting this together. There were a couple small welding pits that he even ground out, rewelded, and smoothed again. I saw someone else with the JCR MJ rear bumper kit at the PA Jeep show and it looked no where near as good as this.

The fabricator was worried I would need to fill areas to make the paint look great. I did not bother and it came out amazing!