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I keep meaning to look into that. But also I haven't had anyone willing to help me test them so that I can go forward with something like that and sealing them up again.

Ah sweet, man. Thanks. He's going to assemble a complete short block for about $2500.

Use all of your Renix parts on the HO block. I’ve done a write up on this in Tech and Cruiser has it on his website. It’s entirely bolt in, but you’ll have to use your Renix accessories, distributor, intake, exhaust, etc.

Sounds like a plan!

I forgot about the distributor, which is different and I just so happen to have one for the 91-01 engines my my garage. I assume it'll plug and play with my existing renix ignition parts.

So my 89' Renix engine essentially took a dump. Cracked cylinder head and now I discovered a bad piston/cylinder. I had bought a 1994 cylinder head (7120) and had a valve job and resurface done on it before I discovered the bad cylinder wall/piston (yea, I know...dumb mistake of not catching the bad block). I had port matched the 7120 head to mate with my 89 Renix intake manifold. My 89 block is a 53005535 by the way. There's a dude nearby that has a freshly machined, ready-to-go 53008405 block. Its my understanding that these blocks are from 91-01 XJs. It's bored .40" over. I've got pics and video of it. Will this block fit in my 1989 Comanche? I'm trying to think of what would not make it a plug and play...Motor mounts, Knock sensor, oil filter housing, water pump, maybe? If it'll go in with no problem, then the plan would be to put on my 7120 cylinder head and run my Renix intake setup. Anything come to mind with this idea, fellas?

Another Central American beater, this one is on rt 13 in Coatepeque, Guatemala at what is now a heavy equipment mechanic. I couldn’t find anyone there, or I might have tried to trade grills or wheels. The factory roll bar is missing, and the body is in rough shape, but it’s registered, and looks like it’s been moved recently. its been there for at least 7 years according to google street view.

Oh, that's awesome! I've updated my post, but I'll go ahead and shoot him the originals too

Walk-Around and current status of the build:

Once you have the rear driveshaft out, you can take it for a rip in 4hi, see if the rear shaft missing makes a difference. If it’s been hammering against the transfer case it may be bent or something, and out of balance. I’m also not sure the standard driveshaft length charts we have necessarily apply to the later sealed output style transfer cases. And I don’t know either that the 242 is a perfect length match for the 231, or just close enough to not be a problem in most cases. I want to say when I swapped my 231 to an early-style 242 the seal was cleaning off more of the yoke than before, possibly by as much as 1/2”. But that was a long time ago. The BA10 vs AX15 may not be a perfect exact match either, Advance Adapters only guarantees their swap kit to be within 1/4”. But with as many variables in configuration as you have changed from stock, I think it’s important to do your own measurement instead of relying on a chart of stock lengths. 1/4 or an 1/8” from stock here or there might not matter individually but together the accumulated error may be too much.

Ahh

I understand that an '86 would have TBI. It wouldn't if I were to do a rebuild. I hate the Jeep TBI,, and I would much prefer to have a carburetor -- so that's what I would use.

Good place to start. Pun intended.

Found this and after I measured my drive shaft I need it shortened about 3/4 of an inch. My driveshaft measures 48 3/4. I need it to be 48. There must be a length difference between the new and old style transfer cases. Can any one confirm this? I am pretty sure it is the original driveshaft and axle. The previous owner swapped in an AX15. I swapped in a new style NP242 from the original NP231. I didn't have a picture right now but the wheel is pretty close to center of the wheel well. Maybe just a hair towards the front.

Iacv could also be an issue. A good TB cleanup may help.

Is this not the original driveshaft/axle combo? Can you shoot a picture of how the wheel sets on the wheel well?

Cycling the key a few times would have the pump run a couple of times to make sure the system would prime. There should be a schrader valve along the fuel rail where you could hook up a gauge to check the pressure.

Yeah I am going to get both 2 and 4 degree shims and see which works better while driving I think 2 might be best. While under load the pinion rolls down and then would be lined up (in theory anyway). I am actually only about an hour away from Tom Wood's but they are really busy right now. They are only making new shafts and aren't taking any outside work right now. I found a shop closer to me that can shorten it for me and if that doesn't work then I will order a shaft from Tom wood's.

No code and where would I check fuel pressure? but I think it was the throttle sensor, my case broke and it still works but just checked and it was loose again so I'll see if that fixed it tomorrow.

Tomwoods carries the shims as well. Sound like around 3-4* should work well.

comancheclub@hotmail.com

Yes

Ok, I will check that next. Can I check it without pulling the tank?

Or loose...

That would be great! CC shrinks the size of an image, so it still may not show up great. I tagged Pete because he has an email for the build sheets to be sent to so that we can figure out all of the optional equipment. I think it’s something like comancheclub@hotmail.com, but I don’t remember for sure.