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  2. I was afraid someone would ask this, haha. It was a later square body, not sure exactly. It was a Suburban, it might have been 88-90 range, when the pickups had already changed over to the new body style, but the Suburbans, Blazers, and 3+3 cabs were still square?
  3. Which Chevy truck? That’s neat you found a printed one. Those are from the Chrysler years.
  4. It should not affect your turn signal. Look at your fuse box. Do you have a blue or black box on the left side? If it is black, then the key buzzer was not active. See the eighth post in this thread:
  5. I’ve searched but can’t get an answer.. so I took a 98 XJ that had and auto trans and swapped into my 89 that I’m running a NV3550 in. I used my 89 flywheel/tone wheel and I’m having problems with it running and it won’t rev up. Does anyone know if it’s because the 3 wire crank sensor is not reading the 89 flywheel correctly? Or does it not matter? Thanks
  6. Ah, thanks. It mustn't have been working to begin with then since it never buzzed for me.
  7. Seems like I saw someone post here on CC that they were looking for a 4cyl coolant bottle cap. Found one in a junkyard in SLC. It's not the prettiest. Also have the piece that sits in the bottle. I also discovered that a late 80's Chevy truck cap also threads on the MJ bottle. Either or both are for sale, $5 plus shipping from 65570.
  8. Today
  9. How many Renix do you have available? I just picked up 2 yesterday sensors and all. I figured I'd ask before posting them for sale if you were looking for more cores.
  10. They were all sold out shortly after this post. I think I got the last 2. Since they called me and sent a refund on the 3rd.
  11. That’s the “hey dummy, you left your key in the ignition “ warning buzzer contact switch. Many people remove it without a problem
  12. Wow that the best write-up for 97+ door swap! Very rich information.
  13. I've had a few electrical issues with the '90 eliminator I recently purchased, the relevant ones being that the hazards/brake lights were not working, the headlights couldn't be switched from high to low beams, and my left turn signal dash light would stay light when my running lights were on, but only when I wasn't signalling. Hazards/brakes turned out to be a fuze issue, and the headlight issue was from the sliding plastic piece that actuates the toggle switch was out of place. When I had my turn signal switch out of the way I notice this part (that I can't seem to identify) that was loose and cracked located right by the locking cylinder. When I inspected it, one of the arms broke off in my hand. My turn signal dash lights now work properly, but as he title reads my front driver's side blinker doesn't function at all anymore. The bulb isn't burnt, there isn't any corrosion or grease, and I'm not getting any power to the socket. Am I dealing with a bad socket? Did the part that I broke have something to do with it? I'm pretty new to all this as this is my first vehicle so any thoughts or advice are well appreciated.
  14. I actually have a key-part rocker panel for an XJ, looks like it's the only one with the taper. But I'm not completely drilling out all the spot welds do I'll have to graft the new one it and I've never really done bodywork.
  15. Looks good. I would get some chrome paint or silver paint and paint the yellow bulbs silver. They will still flash yellow but it gets rid of the "egg yoke" look with the lenses. I did that with my Comanche and really makes a difference to me that is.. But overall your Jepp looks Great!
  16. The bodies are in curiously good condition, especially with trucks not running. Who was the seller (not asking name) that had all that space?
  17. contact Minuit in the vendor's classifieds forum.
  18. It goes to the diagnostic port on the fire wall for the 86’s and fender for the 87-90’s
  19. What is the other end of the cable hooked to?
  20. I think I have about 6-7 units for 91-95. I’m thinking about pricing them at $70 plus $20 core charge. What do y’all think?
  21. Hey all, I got tired of being unable to roll the passenger window down easily from the drivers side, so I decided to go ahead and swap in a set of full power options doors from an 01 XJ to match my 01 fenders and header. This means power locks, windows, mirrors, and a whole lot of messing around with wire diagrams and head scratching. I did a search of the forums and found some solid write ups on swapping out the door mounting hardware and bracketry. One area I found lacking was the wiring. This prompted me to do a not so little write up on how I got it done using the stock doors and harness off my donor. Keep in mind there will be differences between years/trim levels, and this is no means a definitive guide for all applications. Now to get into it: Recommended tools: - MULTIMETER - Soldering iron - Terminal crimpers - Wire strippers - Basic hand tools + screwdrivers - Wiring diagrams Materials I used: - ’01 XJ Power doors - ’01 XJ Engine bay fuse box - Fuse box wire from XJ - Heat shrink - Solder - Electrical tape - Harness covering (Split loom or whatever you like) - (2) 20A fuses, (1) 10A fuse - Assorted lengths and gauges of wire, if you're building your own harness, use 12AWG to be safe (16AWG For mirror circuit) Check the wiring in the doors first! More on this later. I was able to pull the doors and all the interior wiring I could need out of my donor vehicle. This includes the cross body harness, and the main interior clip that runs along under the dash. I cut out all unnecessary wires from the connectors and cross body harness and was left with this: I then decided I wanted to run all the wires along under the dash, combined it with the existing 01 under dash wiring and cut it down to reach from door to door. I eliminated the big greasy C200/C201 connectors, and the bulkhead connectors: The 01 XJ uses a junction block in the lower right kick panel to act as a splice and power distribution center to all the circuits needed. I chose to eliminate it, and instead use an auxiliary fuse box located in the engine bay for power distribution. I was able to pull the fuse box from the XJ and used that as my power and relay center. I tapped the run-acc circuit for the windows and mirrors off of a dark brown or black (it's dark down there) wire under the steering column, using my multimeter (or test light) to determine which wire would receive power in those key positions. To do this, put one meter probe or test light clamp onto the ground bolt located above the hood release handle, and back probe the large, black, flat connector below the steering column wire by wire, first with the key out of the ignition, then with the key in the run and acc positions. I used this wire to connect to pin 86 on my relay, grounded pin 85, sent fused constant power to pin 30, and keyed power from pin 87 (N.O. contacts) to the switch. My understanding of how the power goes from fuses to doors is this: 1. Constant power comes in from the battery to the passenger door, energizing the locks on a red wire. 2. Keyed power for the windows comes into the drivers door on a tan wire 3. Keyed power for the mirrors comes into the drivers door on a yellow/dark green wire The tan wires are the same 20A circuit, so I spliced them together and added a tail to run to the aux fuse box, fed by the relay. The conductors required in my modified under dash harness the way I decided to wire it, are as follows: Red – Door lock power, constant 12V Tan – Keyed power for all accessories, run from added aux fuse box Yellow – Switch power jumper for windows from drivers switch to passenger Brown/White + Violet/White – Window motor jumpers Orange/Violet + Pink/Violet – Lock switch (signal) jumpers from passenger to driver Orange/Black + Pink/Black – Lock motor power Yellow/Dark Green – Keyed 10A mirror power Orange/Yellow – Power mirror common Dark Blue – Power mirror motor Yellow/Black – Power mirror motor Black - Ground This left me with 12 wires running from door to door, as the red wire only enters on the passenger side, and the yellow/dark green on the driver’s side. There are a few more wires needed if you want the speaker wires as part of this harness, but I chose to skip the headache and keep the wiring my truck currently had and spliced through to the door speakers. In hindsight, it would’ve been way easier to custom make a harness from scratch and skip all the connector deleting and soldering, but since I got all the wiring from the donor for next to nothing I decided to use it. Next was bench testing! It’s always a good idea to test things before prettying up your harness and buttoning everything up. First go, I hooked everything up and was a bit shocked to see I could only lock my doors. After some head scratching and getting my money’s worth out of my multimeter I found that the ground in the door harness itself was right buggered. So if you’re planning to do this conversion in the future make sure you CHECK THE WIRING IN THE DOORS! It will save you a lot of time and sanity once you get to testing everything. Using the continuity feature on your meter, put one probe onto one wire in the connector coming out of the door, and the other probe on the same colour wire in the connector at the switch/lock actuator/window motor/mirror connector. The meter should beep, or read a low ohmic value. If your meter does not beep, and/or indicates infinite resistance (0L on some), you have a broken wire. Also note, I couldn’t get the doors to unlock initially. After messing with the passenger side DOOR harness, I found that the light blue, and light blue/red wires in the smaller passenger switch connector needed to be spliced together. I didn’t see these wires on my look through of the diagrams, but assume it must be for some keyless entry module or something similar. After splicing, all works as it should. Be sure you’re using the correct light blue/red wire, as the speakers use the same colour. I mounted the 01 fuse box in the engine bay like this: Bolted everything up to my MJ, modifying the door striker, running the harness along behind the lower dash panel and fishing the door wires through the body. I fed the wires from my engine bay fuse box through a grommet in the firewall to get into the cab, then branched off as needed. Make sure all your connections are clean, tight, and free from stress/strain, as this could cause strange issues with intermittent connections between terminals. After tidying the harness up a bit, I tested it all again using my new fuse box and harness. The easiest way to do this swap if I were to do it again for someone who wanted it done would be this: - Run 8AWG stranded conductor from battery to fuse block - Run 12AWG from 20A fuse to passenger door switch (Red) - 10A fuse to mirror power - Run signal wire from keyed power (existing) to pin 86 on relay - Ground pin 85 on relay - 20A fuse from holder to pin 30 on relay - Window power to pin 87 on relay (Tan) - Jump the light blue + light blue/red wires in the passenger door - Build a harness with 2 door lock motor jumpers, 2 door lock signal wires, 1 window power jumper, 2 window motor jumpers, 3 power mirror jumpers (common, motor 1, motor 2), a keyed accessory power (from relay) and a 12AWG wire grounded securely to the vehicle - Run my 3 power wires (Constant, keyed, mirrors) into the cab from fuses and splice/connect to interior harness. You can use the stock connectors from the 01 and tuck them up under the dash and everything will work fine. Since I wanted my doors to be easily removable, I used the door connectors from my roommates ’94 ZJ with the infinity sound system. These are awesome oval shaped connectors with a whole lot of terminals that are fastened together with a bolt. I removed the bolt by drilling out the head to make unplugging them quick and easy. I then oval-ed out the hole for the rubber door boot on the truck’s body, screwed and then siliconed them in place to prevent moisture intrusion. Having a good soldering iron is a huge asset for adding these connectors, as there are a whole lot of wires to splice. All done! That’s about all I can think of for now, let me know if you guys have any questions or comments!
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