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Now I have a coil spring question.


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This is how my truck used to sit.

 

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I liked it just the way it was.....but......now........

 

 

I installed the standard springs from GS and now the rear sits about 3 inches higher than before. I expect the springs to settle down over the next week and I'm assuming I'll be left with about 2" higher than before. No doubt that the rear and front have sagged. Joe as GS told me there would be no lift, that raises the question, what is the factory hight? Did the front and rear settle 2" or more? equally? Or did the new rears raise 1" above factory hight?

 

I will carry about 600lbs this week for a job I have, tools, and I'm hoping that will help the springs settle down. I won't order new springs until the end of the week.....that said.......

 

Here is my question-

 

To bring the front up to match the hight of the rear, what springs should I order?

 

 

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Hornbrod, I have a question for you.

 

You stated in another thread that you have tried several different brands of shocks, you said that you found OMEs to be the best.

 

I'm now at the top of my rears, the rears were a little short anyway.

 

Can to post for me what part number you used?

 

My rear is now sitting about where yours is, new shocks will be next on my list.

 

And, I assume that OME is Old Man Emu??

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Seeing at the old and new springs side by side, a 3" change in ride height looks reasonable. Those old ones are really sagged!

There's a pinned thread in the DIY section on measuring ride height that you can use to check the height when you install the new springs and after they settle in. Eagle's measurements are Comanche specific and I believe they are based on the same measuring points as shown in the diagrams in that thread.

I need to crawl under my truck and see how close it is to spec. One more thing to add to my "to do sometime in the future" list.

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I installed the standard springs from GS and now the rear sits about 3 inches higher than before. I expect the springs to settle down over the next week and I'm assuming I'll be left with about 2" higher than before. No doubt that the rear and front have sagged. Joe as GS told me there would be no lift, that raises the question, what is the factory hight? Did the front and rear settle 2" or more? equally? Or did the new rears raise 1" above factory hight?

I've posted this before but, rather than try to link to it, I'll repeat it. This is directly from the MJ FSM:

 

Jeep tech note I.S. 14E explains how to check the ride height on a Comanche. They use the chassis and suspension not the hubs and flares

 

 

 

Front:

------

Measure vertical distance between top of axle tube (looks like just inboard of the LCA mount) to the under side of the frame rail. For the passenger side, measure from the axle tube just outboard of the vacuum disconnect housing.

For 2WD models the distance should be 6-3/4" +/- 1/2".

For 4WD models the distance should be 7-3/4" +/- 1/2"

 

Rear:

------

Measure from the top of the axle tube to the underside of the frame rail inboard of the rubber bump stop.

For 2WD models the distance should be 8.2" +/- 1/2".

For 4WD models the distance should be 9.2" +/- 1/2"

 

 

The quick way to measure for the front is to measure straight up from the canter of the wheel/axle to the bottom edge of the flare. A stock ride height should measure 17-1/2 inches. (Newer XJs with the Up Country suspension option are at 18-1/2, but the older XJ FSM doesn't make any mention of an optional ride height.)

 

I've never quite pinned down what the "stock" height is for an MJ using the hub-to-flare method. Based on some quick measurements of a couple of MJs that may or may not have been sagged, I think it's around 21-1/2 inches, but I think it would be great if someone would jack up an MJ from the chassis until the height from the axle to the frame is exactly 9.2" and then measure from the hub center to the flare.

 

I think I would be very disappointed if I spent the money for new springs, with assurances that they are NOT lift springs, and I ended up any higher than stock height. I don't know why spring makers can't figure that out. A friend of mine down the road had a reputable local spring shop rebuild his MJ springs, both of which had broken leaves. My friend used the truck to haul firewood, so he also had an extra leaf added to each spring for load capacity, but he specified that he didn't want lift.

 

He got about 4 inches of lift. He got a LOT of extra carrying capacity, but the truck looked stupid IMHO. My friend was able to convince himself that he liked it, but I would have been exceedingly upset.

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Hornbrod, I have a question for you.

 

You stated in another thread that you have tried several different brands of shocks, you said that you found OMEs to be the best.

 

I'm now at the top of my rears, the rears were a little short anyway.

 

Can to post for me what part number you used?

 

My rear is now sitting about where yours is, new shocks will be next on my list.

 

And, I assume that OME is Old Man Emu??

 

Correct. Here are the ones I use:

 

OME Nitrocharger Shocks (Yellow):

Front w. 1"-3" lift: OME N35 (13.70"-22.36") or OME N39, (13.46" - 22.13")

Rear w. 1"-3" lift: OME N30 (14.4"-24.3" from 96-05 Nissan Terrano R20) or OME N95 (14.13" - 23.58" from Toyota Land Cruiser)

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There is an easy 5-600lbs or maybe more here, hardly effected the new springs.

 

So, what would you guys do? Upcountry front springs?

 

I can get Crown OEMs for $35 shipped........but I don't trust Crown. http://www.carparts.com/details/Crown/Coil_Springs/52001790.html?TID=80000000CP&origin=pla&CP=1&CP_SRC=PPC&003=27372932&010=cp52001790CoSpCr&gclid=Cj0KEQiAreilBRDzrNfb6uqX4fwBEiQAk-MRYzUKRapM393olTAZdZcc0OJGpZ5a2cbuX6RCSxfvBywaAouM8P8HAQ&c_aid=45534009453&c2cid=1b7daf98-dcef-4fd3-9ab5-d26e6e5f9ff1

 

 

 

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There is an easy 5-600lbs or maybe more here, hardly effected the new springs.

 

So, what would you guys do? Upcountry front springs?

Personally, I would call General Spring and tell them their springs are not as advertised and you either want them replaced with springs that ride at factory height, or you want your money back. Life's too short to waste it dealing with vendors who create problems rather than solve them.

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There is an easy 5-600lbs or maybe more here, hardly effected the new springs.

 

So, what would you guys do? Upcountry front springs?

Personally, I would call General Spring and tell them their springs are not as advertised and you either want them replaced with springs that ride at factory height, or you want your money back. Life's too short to waste it dealing with vendors who create problems rather than solve them.
Exactly
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Those new springs aren't even Metric Ton springs, they're just basic 3+1. There's no way standard-duty springs should be creating lift. That's just wrong.

Yep I tried to let people know, dad sent 2 pair of GS back for same reason before he decided to buy those "expensive" HC springs! Dunno if he still makes just the MT springs any more though? Good luck
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There is an easy 5-600lbs or maybe more here, hardly effected the new springs.

 

So, what would you guys do? Upcountry front springs?

 

OME 2930 front coils.

 

 

I ordered those and 3/4 isolator pads from Morris 4x4.

 

Your guy was out on the road and could not be reached.

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Yes, he does travel a lot. Those coils should give you at least 2", maybe a bit more with the 2.5. And they never sag. Morris 4x4 is a good vendor too. On the other matter the front measurement is 33-1/4". Tires are 31" Michelin LTX A/T, 30.5" dia.

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Yes, he does travel a lot. Those coils should give you at least 2", maybe a bit more with the 2.5. And they never sag. Morris 4x4 is a good vendor too. On the other matter the front measurement is 33=1/4". Tires are 31" Michelin LTX A/T, 30.5" dia.

Ok, I'm at 32.25.

 

So, you are using the OMEs? If so, that  will only net me 1".

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BTW, ARB tells me that the OMEs will only net me 1.75 over stock.....whatever stock height is.......

 

I'm using the old 930 coils, and got a full 2" of lift. The newer 2930 coils were their replacements and you should get the same. Everyone I know who has used these coils got about 2" minimum. Also, ARB/OME marked the MJ/XJ coils for left and right side placement; they probably still do but I'm not sure. It's supposed to be a spring load design thing to compensate for engine torque.

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Well the first thing I would have to say is....it's your truck. 

 

You do use your truck AS A TRUCK.  Props for that.

 

While you didn't get what you paid for so first you must decide if you are going to do the whole

return/money back/different new spring thing. Since you do use your truck as a truck I would 

think a little "enhancement" would help the truck. Now you just have to decide how you will

deal with the front. Spacer, spring or combination. 

 

I've got ~ 3.5" lift running now..Mine is currently 2WD... and my front is via a 2" spring and 

JKS ACOS with RC Drop Brackets.  Went this route because I did similar with my previous XJ

and I wanted some options if I decide to go bigger if I move to 4WD.  Mine rides a bit rough

in my opinion from the AAL in the rear and the STIFF RC gas shocks all round. 

 

Good Luck.

Have read several of your posts and like your approach of do it right...preferably ONCE. 

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Hey Guys,

 

See if I can put a little clarification to the leaf spring issue. 

 

The Comanche has multiple different 3/1 systems from 86-92 but there are 3 main ones.  The gauge of steel is the same on all of them with 2/291, 1/276 and then the overload at 622.  Where the springs differ is in the free arch of the spring itself so between the 3 the free arches put out by Jeep are 7-5/8, 9-1/4 and 10-1/4.  The one we build is the 10-1/4 arch as 99% of people are going to have no idea which one of the 3 springs is on their truck so we will always lean towards the higher arch.  Reason for this is the majority is fine going up in height either 1" or for some who have the lowest spring 2-1/2" which is definitely more but nobody is happy when their truck lowers after putting new springs on.  So for 2/3 of the Comanche owners out there with the 3/1 system you will go up to stock height or up 1" over stock height.  Problem is the lowest arch owners out there will go up probably over 3" with our spring due to the higher arch and the fact they are new. 

 

Only true way to combat this would be to get your actual part number somehow and let us know as we can change the arch before shipping if needed.  As many of you know our springs for the Comanche are built in the USA and the highest quality you can buy so please don't think they were built wrong as the factor in height is simply related to what spring your vehicle came with from the factory.

 

Hope this clears up the reason why some people bump up just a bit while others go up 3" with the same spring and if you have any questions feel free to email or call us.

 

Joe Wallace

General Spring

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BTW, ARB tells me that the OMEs will only net me 1.75 over stock.....whatever stock height is.......

Stock height is 17-1/2" from the center of the wheel/axle/hubcap straight up to the bottom edge of the fender flare. Or, to be more accurate, look up the posts that show the FSM method of checking ride height.

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