cruiser54

They don't have a cam sensor That deal inside the dizzy is a sync generator used by the ECU to fire the injectors sequentially. You can unplug it and drive your Renix Jeep and not feel the difference at all.

Grab a tape measure and a buddy and head down to the local Jeep dealer.

Supply. Fuel pump outlet inside the tank to sending unit mounting flange.

As of late, Comp Cams is having issues with quality. I'd do a cam, but not Comp anymore.

https://cruiser54.com/?p=121

crappy signal to MAP due to deteriorated hose/tube?

CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS HO INTO RENIX SWAP OCTOBER 31, 2015 SALAD 86 COMMENTS EDIT This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe. And generally Pooh-poohed by those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block. XJ Cherokee and ZJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine blocks interchange. 2000+ TJ Wrangler and WJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine blocks interchange. YJ and 1997-1999 4.0L TJ blocks will interchange in XJ/ZJ XJ/ZJ blocks, and the 2000+ TJ/WJ blocks do not interchange without significant modifications. TJ/WJ 4.0L Engine blocks underwent clean sheet design changes effective in the 1999 WJ Grand and 2000 TJ Wrangler. These blocks are not interchangeable with XJ/ZJ engine blocks. The reason is motor mount bolt holes and belt driven accessory mounting bolt holes are in different locations, or not present at all, TJ/WJ vs. XJ/ZJ. Now that we know which engines we can use, let’s get down to business. The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from an HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head at the rear for the sender. You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use a new Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical. An alternative on exhaust manifolds: As far as exhaust, you can use the Renix exhaust manifold and be fine. If you want to use the HO exhaust manifold, you must go with an HO headpipe and screw your O2 sensor into that headpipe. Standard Renix harness is plenty long to do so. A bung can be welded into the HO manifold to accept the EGR tube. You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO design. See Tips #12 – Setting Your 4.0 to #1 TDC and #13 – Distributor Indexing to be sure you get the distributor installed correctly. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications. The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine. As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case.

Good place to start. Pun intended.

Yes

Or loose...

can anyone here provide me with a link to this group? TIA. Pete

How to convert an '87-90 Jeep Renix 4.0 to run on wideband oxygen sensor This is possible thanks to the NickInTimeDesign REM. I'm using the dash/clock version. Very nice. This is the latest wiring recommended by Nick as of 3/25/24. This applies to any wideband controller with a 0-5v signal output. I'm using an Innovate LC-2 with a Bosch LSU 4.9 oxygen sensor. Process Innovate's instructions say DO NOT wire the controller power to any shared power source, so I wired a 4p relay w/ a fuse off the battery to provide 12v to the controller. The relay can be triggered by any 12v ignition power source. Relay mounted near the battery. Find a safe place to mount the controller and route the wiring through the firewall. Connect the 0-5v signal output from the wideband controller to port 1 of the REM serial adapter for dash/clock versions. (purple wire in pic) While you're there, grab your o2 heater relay and either replace it with a 4p relay or remove the center lug with a small pair of pliers. *Yellow X in pic, but not all relays are in the same order. Make sure it's the one with 2 orange/black striped wires going to the center pin. Doing this prevents 12v from getting sent down our new o2 signal line, but still allows full power to be sent to the fuel pump during WOT. To return to factory simply replace this relay and install a factory o2 sensor. Remove your old o2 sensor & install your new wideband o2 sensor into the factory o2 bung. Be sure to calibrate the new sensor before installing it into the exhaust, and periodically per the instructions. This may not apply to other brands. Make sure everything is connected and tuck the excess cable in a safe location away from heat etc. I ran mine under the booster and into the corner. Grab your old o2 sensor, chop the plug off, and connect the two outer wires together. Now plug it back into the factory harness like the original o2 sensor. This sends the new o2 signal provided by the REM back to the factory ECU. Pop the cover off the back of your REM and locate the SIG/HTR dial. Turn it to SIG. Install the REM and navigate to More -> Settings -> Wideband -> and set Wideband Pin to Port 1, then select the AFR range compatible with your controller's output. I had to reprogram the output on my controller to match one of the ranges available on the REM. Nick has since released an update to support Innovate's 7.35-22.39 AFR range: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-AW...ew?usp=sharing Results My XJ now stays in closed loop and has better acceleration and fuel economy than ever before. The fun part with this, besides throwing an Innovate sticker on the side of your Jeep, is being able to adjust the target A/F ratio. This is essentially piggybacking 101: intercept a signal, modify it, and send the modified signal back to the ECU to get the desired effect/response. The default setting is 14.7:1 which is the ideal ratio for the cleanest burn. Lower is richer, higher is leaner. This has been the single biggest improvement to my Jeep's performance and acceleration. I've done all of the Cruiser54 tips, new power cables & good grounds on everything, fat plug wires, new cap/rotor, indexed dizzy, proper TPS adjustment, full exhaust etc etc. None of those "mods" did anything close to what the wideband has done. If you haven't done all the typical Renix tune-up stuff then you may not reap the benefits of the wideband until you do. Always perform mods on a healthy motor or you're wasting your time and money. Renix Wideband Target Tuning Gas Mileage I ran a few tanks of gas at different target settings and different octanes to see what's actually happening: 14.5 A/F on 87 octane for 172 miles: 15.4 MPG 14.7 A/F on 87 octane for 166 miles: 15.7 MPG 14.5 A/F on 91 octane for 146 miles with A/C running: 16.9 MPG 14.5 A/F on 91 octane for 208 miles, some A/C: 18.2 MPG 14.7 A/F on 91 octane for 209 miles: 19.2 MPG!! Renix engines have a knock sensor, '91+ does not. We like our knock sensors. This means the engine will advance timing as much as possible until knock is detected (to maximize power). This also means Renix engines will adjust to higher octane fuels because there's less knock. You can also set the REM target to a richer setting and watch the knock disappear. This allows the engine to advance timing more than it would on lower octane fuel which results in more power, requiring less foot to get up to speed, and better fuel economy. Here's a pic from a recent trip to Lake Tahoe (the last two trips from above). A mix of traffic, 80mph straights, hill climbs, and twisties. 14.5 target AFR was great for hills. If you have a power/comfort trans switch leave it on power and forget it. Last edited by 4pointHo; Today at 10:26 AM. Reason: relay order Edit Quote Multi Quote Quick Reply Like Reply Subscribe

This is why I always recommend folks grab the master from the junkyard with the lines. They're flexible and all you need to do is change the BUBBLE flare on the line to DOUBLE flare to adapt to the prop valve.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f24/renix-wideband-oxygen-sensor-272305/