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rustys xj intake


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i just visited the rustys offroad website and noticed this TBS and intake package

 

http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.m ... de=PER_AIR

 

it says that it fits a xj so will it work for a mj?

 

and if it does, is the vacuum hose(drivers side hose) neccesary because it dosent supply a hole/nipple for it

 

thanx for taking the time to read!

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Throttle Body spacers are a waist of $$ and offer no gains; infact in most cases it decreases HP and mileage.

 

But they make a cool whistling noise when you punch it :roll: ... I wish I hadn't tossed my original bolts for my TJ and have been too lazy to get new ones to yank the Spacer out of mine... Did Zero... added K&N FIPK, which also didn't do much other than making a sucking noise, from my engine bay and my wallet...

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Best bang for your buck is to bore out your TB.

 

Next best bang for your buck in my opinion is to upgrade to a 00-01 XJ intake manifold.

 

Next would be a better flowing exhaust system.

 

Only cold air intake I would run (and we do on my wife's XJ) is the Rock-It parts intake as it moves the filter up and away from the exhaust manifold.

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lead not follow - the rock it intake your taking about, will it fit my mj?

 

where would be a good place to buy a bored tb?

 

i guessing i can get the manifold on ebay.

 

do you have a thread talking about your stroker?

 

thanx again for help!

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i'm running the rustys intake with k&n filter on mine and it does make a strange sucking noise. don't know if it helped with power or not because i changed my exhaust at the same time. maybe helped, or maybe just the exhaust made the change. either way, it seems to have more power (slighty) than before. but this is on a 99 xj so the intake was already the good one.

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Open air elements do in fact add horsepower and torque. However for our trucks they're not worth the money. Here's the reason. The small percentage that they add (3%-7%) is not noticeable until you hit about 65 MPH. Nobody in this club really ventures beyond this speed in our trucks because we don't use them as race cars. Even then the only real way to take advantage of the gains would be to ram cold air either through a hood scoop or with plumbing that hits the filter coming from the bottom of the truck. Actually using it in our trucks really hurts both HP and torque due to the fact that the system is sucking in hot air out of the engine bay which we all know is hotter than a lot of other car's engine bays. So unless you plan on making a street comanche running a Hemi don't bother with either one because you'll actually do more hurt than good.

I've run K&N sysytems in VW's and took them all to get tested on Dyno's and these are the results I got. Also if you do run it I would relocate the filter over to where the battery sits to get it as far away from the manifold as possible and build some kind of wall around it to seperate it from the engine bay heat.

 

Edit: Hornbrod's stroker or a supercharged engine or turbo would be a great candidate for this system but you also have to add a free-flowing exhaust to fully gain the advantages of it. (Actually I just read Adam's post, so yeah like he said)

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Edit: Hornbrod's stroker or a supercharged engine or turbo would be a great candidate for this system but you also have to add a free-flowing exhaust to fully gain the advantages of it.

 

Here's an old post with dyno readings:

 

I've had a Hesco 4.5L stroker in my rig for almost three years now. My original Mar 2005 peak dyno readings at rear wheel were 182.4HP @ 4250RPM and 228 ft/lbs torque at the same RPM. Last month I went back to Hesco for my over 2-year checkup. The peak readings this time were 208.0HP @ 3990RPM w. 276.8 ft/lbs torque. The only major performance changes I've done since 2005 were getting rid of the cat and replacing it with a 2.5" in/out glass pack, into a Walker (the Flowmaster was too loud for me) single 2.5" inlet / dual 2.5" outlet Hi-Flow muffler, then dual 2.5" pipes all the way back over the axle exiting under the bumper. Also Hesco had to lower the fuel pressure from 44PSI to 38.5PSI to get the best dyno readings. I've read that you need lots of back pressure for the 4.0L engines too, but did not believe it. You just never know how mods will affect the engine until you put it on the dyno.

 

EDIT: Both dyno runs were made with an FIPK in place and a 62mm throttle body. So my conclusion is that a good freeflowing exhaust helps HP/Torque a lot more than the intake, but you need both for good engine breathing. Also, this is an HO engine; it peaks at a much higher RPM than the Renix engines. The Renix engines are a completely different animal to tune as Eagle has explained so eloquently in the past. :cheers:

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I got the rustys airtube and seems to have helped my truck with accelerating. I had a bit of a dead spot in the pedal that cleared up. I am now going to redo my exhaust from the manifold back.

 

 

Hornbrod: Will my truck pass emissions if i take off the cat and put a glass pack( like a cherry bomb) instead like you did? Is a high flow cat alot better than a regular cat?

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Hornbrod: Will my truck pass emissions if i take off the cat and put a glass pack( like a cherry bomb) instead like you did? Is a high flow cat alot better than a regular cat?

 

It's highly doubtful Jim you'll pass the sniff test w/o a cat. Luckily we don't have emissions testing here. And yes, a freeflow cat, like a Carsound cat, does flow offer less restriction than the stock cat. As far as emissions testing with a freeflow cat, someone else will have to answer that one. :D

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i don't have the spacer but i do have the tube/6x9 k&n filter, and i know it sounds cool as $#!7 if nothing else. :brows: growls like a beast from under the hood when you get on it.

 

as for mpg and power, i have no idea, i did the swap like a month after i bought the jeep cause my brother needed a stock airbox to put in a snorkel so i got it free jamminz.gif

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