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Thanks for the link to there website I guess a poor college kid like me better start saving some money to afford there product!! So far how are you liking it and the mounting to the weak frame thing it looks pretty strong but that stupid uni body just makes me wonder when it comes to hookin something up to it thanks again

G Hunt

 

This is one of the best mounting systems I have seen for long arms on an XJ/MJ. It is very well thought out and takes the unibody weaknesses into account.

 

Willy

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you are doing an awsome job on that truck just got an mj myself good picks for me to use as a reference you can really weld my freind is going to do all my welding. c-ya on the trail. jamminz.gif

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Lots of welding over the past week.

 

 

 

Tripled up the d-ring mounts to 3/4". Still need to weld the third piece on each side.

 

 

 

 

 

Willy

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Finally made some picture worthy progress. Finished the d-ring mounts.

 

 

 

Now that I had reinforced the outer mounts of the steering box bolts, I also wanted to get rid of the crappy aluminum inner spacer before it exploded. I've got a C-Rok spacer on my XJ that made a perfect template. :D

 

 

Front bumper is on! :jump:

 

 

 

The fairlead barely sticks out further than the d-ring mounts. I've got a hawse fairlead that will eventually go on once the wire rope goes bad and is replaced with synthetic.

 

 

Willy

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Looks good 8) How heavy is it ?

 

Got a few weights.

 

Winch plate - 23.5 lbs

Front bumper - 77 lbs

Rear bumper - 96.5 lbs

 

Willy

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Very nice work, god I love this stuff!!!

 

Makes me wanna get out there and finish up mine!!!

 

I have been wanting to add the side pieces to the rear bumper like you did since my Pop crushed mine at Field and Forest in '06!!!

 

NICE NICE NICE!! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:

 

CW

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did you make your own brackets for the rear bumper?

 

Yes.

 

The passenger side bracket. The driver side bracket looks pretty much the same.

 

 

 

I'll run gussets from the bumper clear up to just behind the cut out for the shackle hanger.

 

Willy

 

I ended up cutting a section out of that bracket right above the shackle hanger.

 

Willy

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Working on a couple of other things to stay legal.

 

With the new bumper, I needed somewhere to put the license plate. I didn't want it hanging below the bumper just to get ripped off while wheeling, but I also wanted to be able to open the tailgate at the same time. Since the bumper is 4" tall and the license plate isn't (it's 6" if I remember correctly), I had to think of a creative solution. I made this bracket that slides into the receiver. When we go wheeling we just remove it and nothing hangs below the bumper.

 

 

 

 

WA also has laws about tire coverage. Legally, there is a limited amount of tire that can be exposed and isn't covered by the fender or a mud flap. I found some mud flaps on e-Bay, picked up some door hinges and hitch pins, and made these mud flap brackets. I also made these removal for wheeling.

 

 

Willy

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thanks willy.

 

I've got to come see your jeep sometime so i can steal some of your ideas! I'm only about 100 miles away.

 

Would you be willing to share what steel you used for the rear bumper.

Imitation is the best form of flattery.

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Would you be willing to share what steel you used for the rear bumper.

Imitation is the best form of flattery.

 

I used 2"x4"x3/16" rectangular tubing.

 

Willy

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Made some 1/0 gauge battery cables and picked up these nice battery terminals to use with them.

 

 

Willy

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Some cooling upgrades. :D

 

Converting to an open cooling system with a CSF 3 core radiator.

 

Transmission cooler.

 

Converting to dual electric fans with a SPAL controller.

 

Willy

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Made some 1/0 gauge battery cables and picked up these nice battery terminals to use with them.

 

 

Willy

 

Willy, does the local power company know you cut a section out of their overhead lines? sheeez, talk about heavy duty! Very nice. What would you charge to make up another set? :brows:

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The radiator and cooler installed.

 

 

BLHTAZ is sending me a heater control valve. I also need to replace the thermostat, install the generic overflow reservoir, and figure out what I need to do with the SPAL controller.

 

Willy

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Willy, does the local power company know you cut a section out of their overhead lines? sheeez, talk about heavy duty! Very nice. What would you charge to make up another set? :brows:

 

I think meth heads have probably already scrapped any power lines that are still accessible. :ack:

 

It's really not that difficult to make the battery cables with stuff you should be able to get from the local hardware store. Just need the cable, cable lugs, and some solder. Add some heat shrink tubing depending upon how fancy you want to make it look. Remove some insulation from the end of the cable, melt some solder in the cable lug, stick the cable in the lug, and hold for a few seconds while it cools.

 

Willy

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your build seems to go so much quicker than mine ever has. I'm really impressed with your attention to detail.

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your build seems to go so much quicker than mine ever has. I'm really impressed with your attention to detail.

 

Don't look too close then. You might not be so impressed. :eek:

 

I don't know that you can consider this a quick build. We've had this for just over two years and I don't think we've put more than 1,000 miles on it. I hope to drive it quite a bit more once I get this cooling stuff complete. But, I'll probably just find something else to change that will move it back into the garage for an extended stay.

 

Willy

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looking good, let me know if you decide to part it out... ya know whith gas prices and al..... ;)

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After a couple of weeks of working on my Jeep I got back to the MJ this week. The heater control valve, thermostat, and overflow bottle are installed. I still need to hook up the SPAL controller.

 

After tripping over the passenger side rock slider for several months, I finally installed it.

 

 

 

I tucked it up as close to the body as I could without doing a rocker replacement.

 

I tied the front support into the TNT belly pan.

 

It's also attached to the pinch seam with angle iron.

 

This is the middle support. It is attached using crush sleeves similar to the TNT belly pan mounts.

 

This is the rear mount. I wanted to give it some vertical support. The front and middle mounts use the pinch seam for vertical support. I added this foot to the top of the uniframe to help support the rear mount.

 

I still need to build the rock slider for the driver side.

 

Willy

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