robfg67 Posted February 29, 2008 Share Posted February 29, 2008 So I got home from work today and 5 gallons of fuel dumped-out from under the tank. I guess its time to replace it. I have a 1989 short bed with the 18 gallon tank. Can you guys suggest the best/cheapest place to buy a replacement tank? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chicofuentes0224 Posted February 29, 2008 Share Posted February 29, 2008 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-JEEP- ... .m20.l1116 Never tried em. Just saw it on Ebay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robfg67 Posted February 29, 2008 Author Share Posted February 29, 2008 Thanks chicofuentes0224! I will need to email that eBay seller to see if he has a tank for the Jeep I have-the 4.0 six with fuel injection, because that auction item is for an '86 with the carbureted engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver88 Posted March 1, 2008 Share Posted March 1, 2008 I've seen tanks for SB and LB w/ FI listed regularly on ebay. can't say if they are a resonable price though. :chillin: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted March 1, 2008 Share Posted March 1, 2008 Before you buy a new tank ... be sure the tank is the problem. I replaced the tank in my '87 SWB a couple of years ago. Drove to the gas station, filled up the tank, and saw gasoline streaming out from under the truck. The problem wasn't the tank at all. Where the hard gas lines go into the fuel pump mounting flange apparently is a vulnerable spot. The lines vibrate or something, and develop a hairline crack where they go through the flange. That's where the leak is often found. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robfg67 Posted March 1, 2008 Author Share Posted March 1, 2008 Eagle, do you know if the hard gas lines that goes into the fuel pump mounting flange can be inspected and replaced without removing the tank? Is there enough space? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjbliley Posted March 1, 2008 Share Posted March 1, 2008 You can pull the whole seding unit without pulling the tank. That should enable you to check the hard lines Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooSteeler Posted March 1, 2008 Share Posted March 1, 2008 99ncxj has one for sale in the classifieds...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robfg67 Posted March 1, 2008 Author Share Posted March 1, 2008 Guys, just to be clear, when you say to check the: "hard gas lines go into the fuel pump mounting flange apparently is a vulnerable spot. The lines vibrate or something, and develop a hairline crack where they go through the flange. That's where the leak is often found." Are you referring to the lines from fuel filler assembly on the right side of the image below or at the sending unit side on the left? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted March 1, 2008 Share Posted March 1, 2008 I think hes talking about #21 in the drawing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted March 1, 2008 Share Posted March 1, 2008 I think hes talking about #21 in the drawing. No, he's not. He's talking about the fuel pump assembly in the call-out box at the upper left and lower left of the diagram. The two rubber fuel lines clamp into steel hard lines where they penetrate the fuel pump assembly mounting flange, and it's where those two steel lines go through the flange that the leak often develops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robfg67 Posted March 1, 2008 Author Share Posted March 1, 2008 Here is the latest: I dropped a quilt down and grabbed a strong flashlight to inspect and found no obvious cracks, splits, holes or anything else that would cause fuel to leak. I was able to inspect all four sides of the tank all the way to the top and about 80% of the fuel delivery tubes. Unless you are a midget and/or a contortionist, it is physically impossible to visually inspect the top of the tank and the fuel tube connection and sending unit assembly/connection. Fortunately, there is no skid plate to deal with either, so dropping the tank should be fairly easy. I found a guy on eBay who sells the correct tank (for my Jeep) for $180 plus shipping, so I’ll go to him if necessary. Thanks to all for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted March 1, 2008 Share Posted March 1, 2008 Unless you are a midget and/or a contortionist, it is physically impossible to visually inspect the top of the tank and the fuel tube connection and sending unit assembly/connection. You're looking in the wrong place. The fuel pump/sending unit assembly mounts into the side of the tank through a round opening in the right side of the tank, slightly above the horizontal seam but definitely NOT on the top of the tank. To really inspect it you might need to drop the drive shaft, but you do not need to drop the tank. All you really need to do is pour in enough gasoline to start it dripping, and crawl under to see where it's coming from. I would be amazed if it was coming from the top of the tank. I've heard of that on XJs, but for some reason on MJs the fuel pump flange tubes seem to be much more vulnerable. You will not see a break. The two steel tubes are brazed or soldered into the flange, and it's the brazing or soldering that lets go. The gas seeps out around the perimeter of the two tubes. At least one person fixed it by drying it off, wire brushing around the tubes, and packing it with JB Weld. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robfg67 Posted March 1, 2008 Author Share Posted March 1, 2008 Self doubt is know creeping in Eagle. I am going to take another look right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robfg67 Posted March 1, 2008 Author Share Posted March 1, 2008 I just took a bunch of pics and this is the best one. There is definitely some rust deterioration on the on the flange at about 4 o’clock. The clamps look good and the inlet tubes are rusty but also look intact. I have about 3 gallons of gas in the tank now. If I remove the clamps (to wire brush the inlet tubes and the immediate general area) would fuel leak or pour out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chicofuentes0224 Posted March 1, 2008 Share Posted March 1, 2008 or you could do like the jackass PO did on mine and smother it with roofing tar. J/k I don't recomend it. It didn't work on mine. Point is youre gonna have to fill the sucker again and watch to see where the gas comes out of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robfg67 Posted March 1, 2008 Author Share Posted March 1, 2008 This sounds like a 2-man operation. One guy to fill the tank and another under the truck with goggles. Now, I just need to find a sucker, er I mean volunteer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted March 2, 2008 Share Posted March 2, 2008 If the leak is at the flange, it is not where the rubber hoses clamp to the tubes, it is where tubes go through the flange itself. As Chico commented, you relly need to fill it up again and see where the leak is originating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddzz1 Posted March 2, 2008 Share Posted March 2, 2008 If you look at the pic it looks like there might be a crack on the flange under the black cap looking thing. Unless thats just something against it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djag12 Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 Soryy about the hi-jack but on part #19 the smaller tube..is this the air vent? I think when I filled my tank and had it parked on a side hill with the tank on the low side I was dripping fuel. Is this hard to change out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skimore11 Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 I have the same problem with a leak at the point the tubes go through the plate. Is there a good source for this part? At 3 gallons you would be well below that point. I can get about 12 gallons of gas max before it leaks bad. A fill up puts way too much pressure on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robfg67 Posted March 4, 2008 Author Share Posted March 4, 2008 I plan on not filling the tank more than about a quarter of a tank for the next few weeks. At some point in April, I plan on taking my Jeep off the road to repair the rust spots and repaint the entire truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djag12 Posted March 4, 2008 Share Posted March 4, 2008 Here is a different model. Will this work? http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/detai ... 7072S.html Also, found a place that will rebuild them. http://www.tristarrradiator.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layback209 Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 I had a fuel leak with my truck to. Thought it was the gas tank. When i pulled it the larger diameter fuel line (from the pump) was leaking at the fitting to the metal fuel line. Couldn't see it until i pulled the tank. Well now that i know where to look. Just give the rubber lines a squeeze at the ends (where they mate with the metal lines), if they are leaking fuel will leak out. It was leaking randomly and from different drip spots under the truck. It would only leak if the tank was above half full. Just a heads up. I made the mistake of buying a part MJ and harvesting the tank from it before finding the 1$ fix (cost me 250$ overall). hope that helps Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 Here is a different model. Will this work?http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/detai ... 7072S.html That includes the mounting flange and fuel guage sender, so it would work. Except that your signature indicates that you own an '88, and this part is listed for the '91 & '92. I don't know if they work at the same pressure, and I don't know if the polarity is the same on the guage wiring. (Of course, the wires could be easily reversed -- they're just push-in connectors.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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