layback209

Mabey your exhaust manifold is so badly cracked that your O2 sensor is picking up incorrect O2 levels?

O my goodness :doh: thanks for straighting me out :thumbsup: The angle finder method is brilliant it will at least give me a clue of how to proceed next. I do have a level garage to test this out. I'll put the near perfect rear tires on the front to get best results. And also go through the tape method to get some preliminary starting points. Can't wait till i'm off work tomorrow, i can see some hope

Oh one more thing... not sure this matters but at this point you never know. My passenger side coil has sagged a bit mabey 0.5"-1" from engine torque would be my guess. Is it possible the uneven wait could also amplify this ware. I can't see it being the primary cause but heck if i know :hmm:

There is a possibility the axel is bent, i've never jumped the truck thats what my dirt bike is for lol. But i did crank some rail road tracks that were in terrible shape on a 100km/hr highway a while back (2.5 years). Would the tubes be bent or the frame that holds the ball joints, the axel tubes appear strait (either or would require a new axel just wondering though). The steering linkage appears fine visualy i've always greesed it after an oil change.... I've never cranked anything durring my mild 4x4n adventure to realy mess it up. I think this negative camber is a very high possibility the tires do almost look like the tops tilt inward a bit (very small). But i don't know for sure my glasses skew everything and is most likley the wedge shaped tires amplifying it. I may jack it up and hold a level to the side wall to see. Unless i can think of anything ground breaking my plan of action is 1. Check current alignment with tape measure method as shown above to see where were at (if ok go to 2.) 2. Replace steering linkage 3. Get alingment done and review x-y axis print out for -+ numbers 4. If the above fails Replace axel and hope the replacement isn't fubar as well Thanks for the help thus far :)

Well ever since i got my rig (5 years ago) the front tires have always worn more on the insides (in the fenders) then the outside. Its has gotton so bad that i can't afford to drive it anymore. This is what i've done thus far: Replaced front rotors, pads, calipers and hub assemblies over the past year Replaced all ball joints 9 months ago Had numerus alignments done at reputable places never realy correcting the issue (just a one pop waste of $80) So my fresh 31" cooper stt are wedge shaped worn and cupped to 50% on the inner 4.5"s of threds after 10, 000kms Some cheep street tires i decieded to put on went bald in the same spot after 3500kms :( I realy need my dd back. See the following photos for my tipical ware pattern. Any ideas, thoughts, thinks i can check/measure at home would be greatly appreciated :bowdown: I'm buying this kit tomorrow and installing it this weekend if this doesn't work I may have to trade her in for something drivable :help: http://www.northridge4x4.ca/proddetail.php?prod=CE-9701 Regards,

Well i'm rocking the glass pack right now, sounds meen (kinda like a tractor) but it gets realy loud after a few months. I'm cheep so i went with it but my hearing is begin me to open my pocket up. You know your exhaust is loud when it over powers your $1000 sound system lol. GO flowmaster!!!

Sure is but in think the father son team can squeez a bit more out of that 306. I was reading a bit more on there site adn after they dialed in that engine a bit more they were making 10sec passes a the local 1/4 mile. Unfortunatly snapped the crank. Man that engine sounds insane! You wil have to shoot a vid of that tricked out 4.0L. Love to here what that beast would sound like. Have you had a chance to check out there videos on the web site? I think they are under the events tab 2007 has a few cab view passes on the salt flats. Those mile sign were sure passing fast. I think they had there engine dyno at 7000RPM for 520hp. give you something to go by 460hp at 6200rpm... aprox 168 mph on there mj setup.

Here is a realy cool slat flat comanche. I think this guy is in a different catagory then what your going for. He is rocking a 306 dual 4-barrol chevy with a top speed of 168mph so far! Here is a quick excerpt from the bellow site. C = The engine size/class designation: 306 thru 372 cid (5.01 to 6.1L). 'C' is the largest engine size that can run in the MMP class. M = Modified: engine swap and/or quick change rear end. M = Mini: 1972 and later American and foreign made mid and mini size pickup trucks with full stock bed and unaltered in hight, width or contour with all panels mounted in the original relationship to each other. P = Pickup: Covering of pickup beds with tarps or panels is allowed. The cover must be no higher than the edge of the pickup bed. After market bed caps are allowed but must not allow any aerodynamic advantage. Worth a looky, may see something worth looking into deeper ;) Props to you you have an excellent build going so far can't waight to see some pictures. http://home.comcast.net/~lakeviewcruiser/site/ Check them out they may be able to share some insider info. Looks like a sick rig. Cheers,

I have had great success with felpro-neoprne vc gasket. Its a touch pricy but its worth it less fooling around. they are a metal stamped section coated in neoprene. Designed to be reusable. Just make sure you clean the surfaces well. If your finding your engine is starting to leak oil form every orfice lol. Lucas heavey oil stabilizer is a cheep fix that works. Add one full bottle to approx 4.5L's of oil and your good to go. Should see results in 3 days. Just a few ideas to consider, cheers,

Anyone know how to turn off the o2 sensor dash light on a 91 mj (i have recently replaced the o2 sensor)? My haynes manual claims i need to go to a dealership because the timer "black box" needs a special key in order to resset it. Can this system be resset if i disconnect the battery for 24hours? A completly unrelated question that i'm looking for opionons on would be; I am hearing some excessive clicking comin from the "valve train", it sounds like only one valve lifter assembly is making the extra noise. The "extra" clicking doesn't start when the engine initialy fires up, only when it has been idling for about 45sec-1.5mins. So here is what i am thinking (the engine has 210km and know gunk build up, checked under the valve cover a while back), so a lifter sticking seems unlikely but is still possible (man thats a major repair, well mabey i can get creative with a magnet or something lol). My other thought is mabey the oil pump isnt suppying enough pressure (know the oil level is not low or high its on the sweet spot). Latsly mabey something above the lifter is causing the "extra" clicking. Any ideas on any of the above would be appreciated, cheers,

Its soo shiny! Nice find

Right on, i'll contact ya from work durring next week.

Does anyone know off hand if Motion Offroad can ship MJ lifts to "Alberta Canada" with minimal boarder issues? Is there a Canadian Distributer i can contact? I do a lot of fishing/camping/skiing and the MJ is exccellent at getting me to location, however i do bottom out on the Crown Land roads (my rear Bumber now has a bit of Character lol). I love this truck, and the motion offroad 3" kit is exactly what i need (being a daily driver as well). I just can't seem to find any 4x4 places to order it for me. As a last resort i would be doing an RE super Flex 3.5" kit. I would get a metal shop in Calgary to fab up some custom rear springs for me. But heck i would prefer to just get the Motion off Road kit. I could at least bolt that bad boy on in a weekend. Cheers,

Just South of Calgary, Alberta.

I realy realy wanted to keep it but, well i'm just broke. I can't even aford gas for the mj. :oops: I'm always realy hard on cash the end of the school year. But its all good i start my sweet internship job Monday and that means two weeks till payday :cheers: I do have a nice craftman ft-lb torque wrench which i proudly display in the garage. Cheers,

Sure does. hmm i never considered that, but then again i never opened the gasket box before i got the wrench. Ya thats my week defence lol. I'll have to remeber that for my next vc job, thanx. Cheers,

I used regular automotive tremclad primer. Re-rusted after 1 winter :roll: Buy the good stuff ;) Mine may have rusted because i didn't put the skid plate back on. Man that thing was a pain. The "magic nuts" that the skid plate bolts go in were spinning so had to drill them out to get it off. My back still hurts. i realy wish those were regular nuts that one could get a wrench not those pressure rivit things.

So to get the right torque i did an Azz kinda move. Bought a torque wrench from Canadian tire :Canadaflag: and returned it after i got the vc tightened down. :oops: Thanx for the quick replies With some cleaning an painting. THe hole point of this was to stop my blow by. Replaced the ccv stuff two. Well put 300km on it know leaks and blow buy finggers are crossed.

Sweet thanx. I got some kind of 60$ felpro gasket myself. and 55 in-lbs sounds about right. To bad my torque wrench is half in and in ft-lbs. well 55/12 = 4.6 ft-lbs right. Would i mess stuff up if i went to 5 ft-lbs?

I tryied searching on this site but could not come across what i was looking for. I'm redoing my vc, new ccv stuff, paint and cleaning. just wondering what i should torque the bolts to, too properly seat the new gasket? Is the tightening pattern the same as the cylinder head? Thats the system i used to remove it. Middle out wards. any help would be appreciated. Cheers,

Nice looking mj so far. Thats a sweet order list. Looking forward to seeing pic's of the motion off road lift on the 31" BFG's. :popcorn:

Have someone turn the wheel back and forth while you watch the front end for movement. Make sure your tierod, draglink, etc is straight. Sweet I'll try and do that tomorrow. I will also be booking an alinement appointment as well. Hate to cause more probs by driving it this way. Every time a turn a corner in town the steering seems to walk... well the steering wheel moves left and right while i'm holding it for a turn. If that makes sence. thanx for the help so far

Ok so here is the story. Went skiing on Friday (550km day trip). On the way back I hit a set of rail road tracks going 115km/h on a 100km/h road. Well by the time I noticed there was a trough on the other side of the tracks (road was squashed out by all the big rigs) I couldn't slow down with out being rear ended. :mad: Well it felt like I hit the worst wash board imaginable. Sent the front end oscillating (up and down left and right, something just not good). When that was over the truck had a distinct vibration that could be felt every where. Through the seat, steering wheel..etc. It’s not too bad but I don't like it. Got home and noticed that the alignment on the truck was out. The passenger side tire was toed out 2"+. You know you hit something to hard when you can see the alignment is out. What should all get checked out? What order? Is there some kind of guess and check procedure that mech's follow? I was thinking; -u joints -drive shafts -rims -tires (didn't lose any air) -something’s bent :cry: -bushings Is there any checks I can do at my house? Any help would be appreciated

Oopps i gues i got no right to complain then :) lol. I was a little bumbed about the prices because of the numbers i got off this web site: www.mopar-parts-dealer.com 53030492 $4.50 $0.00 $3.60 TUBE W/FITTING ASSY 53006239 $8.00 $0.00 $6.40 TUBE CCV TO AIR CLEA 53030591 $3.10 $0.00 $2.48 TUBE W/FITTING ASSY 53030726 $11.85 $0.00 $9.48 HARNESS A ASSY - VAC I just checked with Auto Value here and they stock; FEL-PRO and PARTS MASTER/ROL vc gaskets. Any opinions between the brands? I also remeber seeing cork gaskets at Candian Tire hmmm, only a 15min walk from my place. I'll be sure to put some rtv between the gasket and the mateing surfaces to. THANX for all the help, and quick replies.

Well i got my ccv parts from the dealership today (for a 1991 4.0L HO). All ready to install them. I would like to pull my vc off to clean and paint her. My question is, do i need a new gasket or can i use the old one? THe reason i'm asking is the dealership doesn't sell gaskets for the vc. I was told that they were "Intergrated" into the head???? And the part guy then proceded to try and sell me a new vc for 300$. Is there aftermark gaskets i can get from a part place like NAPA. I would like to stay away from the gasket maker in a tube stuff. Any help would be apreciated Cheers, P.S. got totaly ripped off on the ccv parts, but their the only ones who got them. Front ccv fitting 16$ front tube 8$ Rear ccv fitting 18$ rear tubes 28$ total 65$ plus tax o ya and they wanted to charge me 79$ for the new higher flow manifold fitting (2000 xj). For that price i'll try and make the old one work.