87 Comanche Bucket-O-Bolts - son's first car

[Smash6]

About 3 years ago my brother-in-law revived a Comanche, finding it somewhere (maybe a field) and he managed to get it drive-able, but that's about it. I showed interest and he asked, "why do you want that bucket of bolts?!" We decided it would make a great project for my son's first car, so my boy and I jumped on a plane and took a long flight, picked up the keys, and drove 3 days home. She made it.

 

Since then, we haven't had time to fix nearly as much as we'd hoped. The biggest fix was getting the trash BA10 out and swapping in an AX-15 and NP231 from a YJ. Of course there's been a lot of small repairs along the way. We've also been accomplishing Cruiser54 tips.

 

Updated 11/2/25

 

Current focus areas:

 

1. The HVAC is stuck on full-heat and defrost. I haven't diagnosed it at all. The vacuum system on the passenger side of the jeep is a mess and there are broken and open lines everywhere. I need to simplify it, then repair it.

 

2. The interior needs to be ripped out and redone to include welding in new floor pans. The dash is shattered, the lights in the instrument cluster don't work, the stereo has no memory...there's a lot!

 

I'll follow this post with pics and will try to keep this thread updated as we continue to build.

 

Parts to gather:

-Raybuck seat cover and foam

-Dash pad

-Floor pans - ordered

-Sound deadening

-Trim screws

-Flooring (vinyl or carpet...)

-Driver door check - ordered

-Driver window crank - ordered

-Courtesy lights

-Seat belts

-HVAC control unit - ordered

-Door mirrors - ordered

 

 

[Smash6]

Here a few pics

[fiatslug87]

Nice father and son project! Does the RENIX monitor show the O2 sensor readings swing from about 0.2 to 4.8 constantly? That’s what should happen, I’ve had issues with after market O2 sensors. Check resistance between A&B on the sensor, should be 5-7Ω.

 

Post the VIN in the registry to get a build sheet.

[Smash6]

The sensor is swinging and I’m going closed to open loop as I’d expect.
 

Tomorrow I’ll post what I’m getting off the REM. 

 

Thanks for the registry tip, I’ll figure that out!

[eaglescout526]

Thats a unique decal kit. Actually works well with that metallic garnet like color.

[Pete M]

love those stripes!! 

[Smash6]

1 hour ago, eaglescout526 said:

Thats a unique decal kit. Actually works well with that metallic garnet like color.

They’re painted on and pretty crooked. But if you squint it’s mint!

[Smash6]

Here’s a video of the stumbling and backfiring. I hold the throttle steady throughout but as soon as I give it more and the revs rise, it clears up and she’s running great again. 

[Smash6]

My son got some wrenching time on the Jeep. 
 

We installed a new headlight harness with relays, new LED headlights from Amazon, and new headlight bezels. We also installed a new TPS. 

 

Driving at night is safe now, even though the gauge cluster lights don’t work yet. 
 

We did had an incident tonight where the clutch pedal came off the master cylinder arm and some fancy driving got us home (thankfully!). It’s fixed and driving again. Turns out the cotter pin came out somehow and the arm walked off the pedal assembly. I'm embarrassed. 
 

We are still fighting the stumbling issue. I started a new thread to focus on that problem. Once we solve that, the interior gets ripped out. 

[Smash6]

I started another thread about the stumbling issue and a phenomenal member, ohm, pointed us towards the distributor. We replaced it and indexed it using Cruiser's writeup and the Jeep runs amazing. 

 

There's still a few motor things. The IAC died, the TPS isn't quite right, and lots of seals to replace (this thing leaks oil like nothing I've ever owned). But for now, she runs and shifts. 

 

Next is getting the 4wd back operational and the teardown of the interior.

[Smash6]

Tonight I put a Napa steering gear box in and new power steering lines. The steering is a little tighter, has a better feel, makes less noise, and it should stop one of the many fluid leaks. 
 

the steering still sucks. The upper track bar mount is moving like crazy in the mount so that’s next and I think it’ll be close to steering properly. Close. 

[Smash6]

New track bar and drag link end at the pitman arm were installed today and the steering is so much better. There’s still room for improvement, but I’m very happy. The Jeep’s enjoyable to drive now! 

[Smash6]

Last night we started on the interior. Every bolt I removed I got more frustrated with the previous “repairs”. 
 

1. The stereo harness was just chopped and done so really far back in the harness. 
 

2. The HVAC control module is broken. It can’t move the cable and something caused the blower switch connector to melt. 
 

3. The driver door needs a new hinge spring. Minor, I hope. 
 

4. The floor has some nifty speed holes. The driver side has been poorly patched before. The passenger side isn’t as bad. I need to do some cleaning and grinding to see where the good metal starts. 
 

I'm pretty intimidated about replacing the floor pans. At some point, I have to dive in head first. 

[Pete M]

floors are looking a bit rough there  

[Smash6]

Nah. Just some POR15 and it’ll be good as new!

 

I ordered KeyParts floor boards. I sanded the rear half of the cab a bit and that rust is merely surface. I got to bare metal very quickly. The driver’s side was so badly patched before it made the situation worse. This won’t be an easy fix. 

[ThatJeepGuy]

7 hours ago, Smash6 said:

 

 

This looks to be that classic "layer over the cap" method, shame.

 

I dig the progress you guys are making though. I too am a bit of a sucker for the squinty mint stripes.  Good looking truck!

[Eagle_SX4]

10 hours ago, Smash6 said:

Nah. Just some POR15 and it’ll be good as new!

 

I ordered KeyParts floor boards. I sanded the rear half of the cab a bit and that rust is merely surface. I got to bare metal very quickly. The driver’s side was so badly patched before it made the situation worse. This won’t be an easy fix. 

A picture from the bottom side would definitely help to see how bad this rust really is. It is hard to tell but it looks like the floor support was cut off next to the rocker support and you should be able to see the frame through the floor. However I don't see the frame.

[Smash6]

I haven't taken any pictures recently, but I ripped the driver's side floor out and the unibody frame is solid. The cap was annihilated though. The previous floor patch just went right over the old rust just making everything so much worse. 

[Smash6]

It has taken too many hours to get to this point. The spot welds suck and the PO’s patch work made it more difficult. It’s nearly ready for POR-15 and weld-thru primer and then I’ll start welding and sealing.