Gjeep Posted February 28 Author Share Posted February 28 Got the upholstery cleaned up yesterday and letting it dry in the sun over the next couple days. This near 40 year old upholstery was for the most part spotless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gjeep Posted February 28 Author Share Posted February 28 Can’t say enough good things about @H3ADBANG4L1F3and the HVAC box seals he’ll be selling here soon. I lost count how many times he shipped back and forth getting these seals dialed just right. (And for those who haven’t seen the separate thread on this topic, he’ll have all the variation seals/ years available once production starts.) Today I received the heater core seal modeled after the last rev of the first gen XJ (that ran ’94-’96 in production.) Here’s some photo’s of the HVAC box and seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Mistress Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 Awesome news, I know you both worked hard to get seals to fit "Just Right" So 94-96 they had best designed seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gjeep Posted February 28 Author Share Posted February 28 The first rev was more encasing, meaning the sides all around covered inward about 1/2" and was made from a rubbery foam material - not as friendly to aftermarket heater core designs/ shapes. It was shaped/ molded specifically for the Mopar units. Reproducing this design would be much much more difficult. These have been out of production for a very long time; and about half of those installed from the factory were glued in; and the other half not (making those reusable). This '91 MJ I'm currently working on was the first I've had where this seal was glued in. So I had to toss it with the original heater core. The second gen FACTORY Mopar seal was made of a very crappy low density foam. Junk. I have several NOS as the design is good but the factory quality left much to be desired. I knew some day 20 years back when I bough these spares, I'd duplicate it in a better foam. Lucky for me, a fellow CC'er did so before I had to. The material that H3ADBANG4L1F3 is top notch and will survive well for the long haul. And it fit around both my NOS Mopar heater core and the aftermarket (Modine) core I'm using in this MJ. Perfect fit and top quality. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gjeep Posted March 1 Author Share Posted March 1 Today was the day – installing the HVAC box. First pass was rough. I couldn’t get it to seat where it needed to be, so I pulled it back out to think about things. The cowl seal needed to be ‘broken in’. I removed it from the box and compressed it all around for a good minute. Then I coated the upper metal of the cab cowl with dishwashing soap all around and did the same on the top surround of the cowl seal itself. It worked! The HVAC box and seal slid right into place with zero effort. Had it in and secured in 5 mins. Success! Time to attach hoses, button up the AC lines and charge the system. Here are some pics of the seals in place/ at work. Again, top notch, perfect fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gjeep Posted March 3 Author Share Posted March 3 The ’94.5-’96 XJ r134a set up is in place and ready to be charged. Lots going on this side of the block – and that’s with me having reduced clutter a bit (heater valve delete). It’s be fun getting the oil filter out with the AC lines, charcoal canister, and auto trans lines down the bottom. (My ’95 XJ had this same everything setup… cluttered. Without the auto trans lines it isn’t bad, but this MJ’s got them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gjeep Posted March 5 Author Share Posted March 5 It’s amazing how many needles can fit and stay hidden behind the windshield framing. Vacuumed that mess out and then decided to do the same inside the cowl area. Some, but no where near as much. I did find that at some point one of the brackets spot welds must have broken loose and it was welded back together. Though it’s a low milage unit and bushings are in great shape, it’s being replaced with NOS. Got the rear diff covered up and filled with Lucas 75W-90 synthetic gear oil. Stainless steel bolts like all the rest of the Jeeps in the family. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gjeep Posted March 7 Author Share Posted March 7 Similar set up to my other build with all stainless and a turn-down pipe. Only difference is the flange on the downpipe to cat that came with the first gen Borla header. Next up, getting the Metric Ton’s on, drum brake job, and I forget what else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted March 7 Share Posted March 7 1 hour ago, Gjeep said: Similar set up to my other build with all stainless and a turn-down pipe. Only difference is the flange on the downpipe to cat that came with the first gen Borla header. Next up, getting the Metric Ton’s on, drum brake job, and I forget what else. Looking great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gjeep Posted March 11 Author Share Posted March 11 Two thumbs up to S&S Bumper Repair in So Cal for straightening my factory step bumper. Like new. I’ll paint it satin black. Entire time without bumper was 9 days. Incredible turn-around time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gjeep Posted March 13 Author Share Posted March 13 Metric Ton springs on with XJ shackles – got me a whole 3” of lift. A bit more than I was aiming for, but 1” steel lowering blocks will soon find their way in. Should land me about right. Rear brakes up next... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle_SX4 Posted March 13 Share Posted March 13 1 hour ago, Gjeep said: got me a whole 3” of lift. I am curious what is the distance between the top of the axle tube and frame? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gjeep Posted March 13 Author Share Posted March 13 10 1/4" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle_SX4 Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 17 minutes ago, Gjeep said: 10 1/4" Stock is supposed to be 9" +- 1/2" You are only 3/4" to 1-1/4" higher than stock. It will probably settle down to within stock height. Pic from information service note 14E. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiatslug87 Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 Why does that picture have a SOA configuration if it’s an MJ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 48 minutes ago, fiatslug87 said: Why does that picture have a SOA configuration if it’s an MJ? I suspect it might be a reused XJ diagram. There’s a rear sway bar too, plus the shock mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle_SX4 Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 1 hour ago, fiatslug87 said: Why does that picture have a SOA configuration if it’s an MJ? I agree with @89 MJ it is XJ diagram. I have found several typos in the factory service manuals while reading them. This is the first pic that has been wrong though. Here is the title of the I.S. Note. June 1986 edition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 I can say from my experience that those springs do not settle much. They are simply out of spec for stock replacements. But they are excellent lift springs . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gjeep Posted March 15 Author Share Posted March 15 Yep, 1/2" settle is about all that happens if running a camper shell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gjeep Posted March 16 Author Share Posted March 16 Trial run of the Tiger Tools u-joint remover/ installer I recently purchased – and it worked great. Previous owner had installed Spicer greaseable joints, but I went with the non-greaseable. Also decided it was a good time to replace the transmission output seal while the drive shaft was out. Had a change to paint the rear bumper satin black and it looks like new again. NOS end caps, bumper pads, and license plate lights will round-out that refresh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gjeep Posted March 16 Author Share Posted March 16 I surprise myself when consider looking past pulling the drums. They’re just a pain to deal with. But always glad when I do look as often times I find that repair IS needed… These drums were stuck on as the adjusters were put on backwards/ dialed too far out with shoes well glazed and a couple of broken tension springs. No doubt I’ll feel the additional horsepower now that brakes aren't dragging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salvagedcircuit Posted March 17 Share Posted March 17 Nice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gjeep Posted March 18 Author Share Posted March 18 Some MJ rarity arrived today – true Metric Ton u-bolt plates/ reinforcements. Been looking for a set of these forever. Also, the 1” steel lowering blocks to bring the a$$ end down a bit. Krustyballer’s hitch was mounted up without issue – a much appreciated product. Lastly, and I’m sure this would pain the previous owner to know… I removed all the reflector decals he placed up and down the driver and passenger door jambs; and all the white reflectors he took the time to cut up in ½” strips and placed around each under hood prop hole. G-o-n-e. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Mistress Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 On 3/17/2025 at 7:57 PM, Gjeep said: Some MJ rarity arrived today – true Metric Ton u-bolt plates/ reinforcements. Been looking for a set of these forever. Also, the 1” steel lowering blocks to bring the a$$ end down a bit. Learned something, BEEFY looking ... parts peculiar MJ D44 U bolt plates. Gotta be rarest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gjeep Posted March 20 Author Share Posted March 20 Getting there… 1” lowering blocks got me to the stance I was looking for – 1.25” higher in the rear after I jumped up/down in the bed for 3-4 mins. Rear suspension torqued to spec. Rear bumper in place as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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