Please help! Control arm choices/options

[Airsuperiority]

Hey guys,

I know this has been discussed previously but I wanted to ask for an updated thread. I have a nice pair of turbines I would like to throw on. I have a 3 inch lift, 31 10.5 15 BFGs and 4.10 gearing (would love to stick with the 31s). Does anyone have the specific link for the wj controls arms? Do I even need them? My front axle is from a TJ I am pretty sure but the lower control arms I currently have are oem MJ. Thanks!

[Smokeyyank]

WJ arms are all the same really. I run crown ones on my WJ. They've held up fine. Would suggest against MOOG arms. At 31s I'd look at some adjustable ones. 

[ghetdjc320]

The factory control arms are an “elegant” design. Able to flex and be light weight. But at 3” and with larger tires tire clearance and CA angles become somewhat of an issue. IMO the WJ arms don’t flex as well as they simply were not designed the same. I’d go with just some adjustable control arms with good joints so you can get your alignment back in spec. Many good options: Core, Metal Cloak and Currie (RockJock) all come to mind. But, if you could get away with adjusting your wheel stops or possibly even running a high quality wheel spacer to clear those 31’s on stock control arms, that may also be a viable solution. WJ arms do have their applications though

[gogmorgo]

WJ is a ‘99 to ‘04 Grand Cherokee. Grab a year in the middle of the range and look up lower control arms like you would any other replacement part if you’re wanting to buy new. Or pull them from a junkyard or something if you can find a good used set. 

But if you’re buying new control arms anyway, 3” is pushing the limit of what you want to run on stock length arms. WJ control arms are the exact same length as stock. They may have a bit of a curve to them that is a little helpful for tire clearance, but the big advantage is really that they don’t have a horizontal lip sticking out to grab your tread blocks. Any aftermarket tubular control arm will do the same.

There are probably also some NVH and quality advantages over some of the aftermarket arms, but the stock length arms means you’ll also be screwing with suspension and steering geometry in ways that will negate any NVH improvements. 

[Pete M]

doesn't Rustys have a 3" lift control arm that has a bend in it for clearance of the tire?  at least I think it was rustys. 

[OldSch88L]

At 3" lift and 31's, I tried WJ arms and it still rubbed. However, I had 15X8 Ravine wheels, so different width and offset. Also, from experience, at 3" lift, WJ arms are too short contrary to whatever chart says. My wheels were set back in my front fenders and my caster angle was off. So I guess it's a combination of a little bit of everything. Personally, I'd use WJ arms at 2" or less of lift.

[Eagle_SX4]

Core 4x4 WJ arms are a direct bolt in. I have them on my truck. They include spacers to fit the wider mounts of the WJ but you don't need them if you put them on a Comanche. And they have the bend in them for tire clearance.

[watchamakalit]

I'll second core 4x4 adjustable arms. Why settle for control arms that are "close"?  Adjustable arms are that way for a reason. Made a big difference in ride and handling in my truck when I ditched wj arms and went adjustable. Plus all the suspension geometry can be set correctly.

[Airsuperiority]

thank you everyone for your tips! I will look into the core adjustables! hope everyone had a merry christmas!