WranglerMangler Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 That will definitely impede air flow! Be sure to do the Cruiser54 ground upgrade while your there too. Makes a big difference in fan performance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MariaManche Posted February 8 Author Share Posted February 8 1 hour ago, jeff351 said: mine looked just like that. I posted it a year or so back! And yes, mouse nests are pretty smelly Did you have any wiring damage from the mice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff351 Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 9 hours ago, MariaManche said: Did you have any wiring damage from the mice? Very minimal, luckily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MariaManche Posted February 8 Author Share Posted February 8 11 hours ago, WranglerMangler said: That will definitely impede air flow! Be sure to do the Cruiser54 ground upgrade while your there too. Makes a big difference in fan performance I thought that upgrade by Cruiser54 was for Renix only? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WranglerMangler Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 11 hours ago, MariaManche said: 22 hours ago, WranglerMangler said: I thought that upgrade by Cruiser54 was for Renix only? Think it’s “mostly” Renix tips. All grounding upgrades apply to all MJs. I do to as much as possible from his list to my HOs, seems to make the trucks much happier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MariaManche Posted February 20 Author Share Posted February 20 Still working on getting the dash back together after deep cleaning and fixing wiring issues. I am dragging another piece of the puzzle home today. Ford 8.8, limited slip, disc brakes, 3.73. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MariaManche Posted February 21 Author Share Posted February 21 I put together a parts list of what I need for the 8.8 swap. I will also need to re-gear the front dana 30 to 3.73. Does anyone of recommendations on 3.73 ratio ring and pinion for the Dana 30? rear axle swap 8.8 New rotors/pads XJ leaf shackle 1" spacers 1280 lb leafs Diff cover leaf/shock mount kit yoke adapter Dana 30 3.73 ring/pinion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 I put Yukon parts in my Eagle. I don't have too many miles on them, but I have been very happy with them, for what its worth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watchamakalit Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 I'll second Yukon. I used them in my mj, and my CJ (I haven't driven the CJ yet since the swap). I have several thousand on the MJ gears and have no complaints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WranglerMangler Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 I’ve also had good luck with Yukon gears and axle shafts. I have a set of very beat on D44s with Yukon R&P + Rear shafts that I’ve never had any problems with. (35” tires) My friend spun his Yukon pinion and broke teeth in a D30 front with 36” tires, so they do have their limitations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MariaManche Posted March 15 Author Share Posted March 15 Comanche Update I should have taken more pictures of the process but I completely dissembled the dash to clean and fix wiring issues. Most of the wiring was in good shape but some had chew marks exposing the conductive copper. I used liquid electrical tape to fix most of these, but for one I had to cut out the bad and solder/heat-shrink. Blower motor was re-installed after deep cleaning that area of the engine bay. Painted my fuse box metal bracket and got the wiper fluid and puke box reservoirs looking like brand new. On my first test drive, I turned on the AC and the motor blew strong briefly and then shut off. I am guessing I blew a fuse but I have not dove into that yet. I drove the Comanche for about 80 miles and made note of action items to fix. There is an extremely annoying rattle that I need to locate and it still smells terrible even after all my cleaning efforts. I am going to try an ozone machine off of amazon to fix this now that I think all the mouse remains are gone. It is extremely nice having the original radio working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MariaManche Posted May 8 Author Share Posted May 8 Comanche Update This has to be the last mouse nest...... There is basically no where else for one to hide. While I was taking out the wiper motor and wiper arms, I noticed there was a lot of slop in the arms. This makes me think that this might be the culprit for the very annoying rattle noise behind the dash. I plan to replace the wiper arm bushings and try to correct the slop before reinstalling. I have been taking the Comanche out to National Forest for some turkey hunting this spring. I do not want it wasting away in the garage like it lived its previous life. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MariaManche Posted July 31 Author Share Posted July 31 Nothing exciting happening on the MJ. I did install new struts on the camper shell back glass. And found an old license plate I forgot I had. Registered in 1988. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salvagedcircuit Posted July 31 Share Posted July 31 3 hours ago, MariaManche said: And found an old license plate I forgot I had. Registered in 1988. Nice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Mistress Posted August 3 Share Posted August 3 Wow a nice red 92 ! keep up good work ! detail king sells an enzyme that eats bacteria of urine, vomit etc. if you haven’t already bought gears, I would recommend 4:10’s or even 4:56 if going stay with 35” tire. Lots of gear -vs- rpm calculator’s online. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MariaManche Posted August 4 Author Share Posted August 4 On 8/3/2024 at 12:26 AM, Red Mistress said: Wow a nice red 92 ! keep up good work ! detail king sells an enzyme that eats bacteria of urine, vomit etc. if you haven’t already bought gears, I would recommend 4:10’s or even 4:56 if going stay with 35” tire. Lots of gear -vs- rpm calculator’s online. Thanks! I’m going to look up detail king Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MariaManche Posted August 4 Author Share Posted August 4 Per Pete’s advice, I dug a little further to find where the rust causing water was coming from….. found more rust. Just got in some C2C floor panels to help with the patches. I don’t think I need to do a complete floor install. anyone have advice on removing the rubber sealant goo that covers the floor board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff351 Posted August 5 Share Posted August 5 I used a set of wood chisels to get that stuff off. If you are lucky, most of it is hardened and comes off somewhat easy. It gets messy when it has the consistency of chewing gum on a hot sidewalk. Then its time to break out the acetone, wire brush and brake parts cleaner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salvagedcircuit Posted August 5 Share Posted August 5 I used a cup wire wheel on a grinder, but yeah it makes an absolute mess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GonzoTheGreat Posted August 5 Share Posted August 5 I used a chisel where it was more brittle, and wire wheels for the rest. It was messy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Awesome Posted August 6 Share Posted August 6 I used an air hammer with a chisel tip and that gets almost all of it out with little effort. You will need to use a wirewheel on the remnants. Use a respirator, the dust gets really nasty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MariaManche Posted August 27 Author Share Posted August 27 Thanks for all the advice! Floor work continues... This BLAIR spot weld cutter is helping a lot! unfortunately, I broke it, but the company is sending me a new one for free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MariaManche Posted September 3 Author Share Posted September 3 Can anyone tell me how to remove this stud? It holding up my removal of the top uniframe support. I have seen pictures of it out and in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salvagedcircuit Posted September 3 Share Posted September 3 25 minutes ago, MariaManche said: Can anyone tell me how to remove this stud? It holding up my removal of the top uniframe support. I have seen pictures of it out and in. That is an important stud that holds in the seat. To remove it, apply some PB blaster, grab a map torch, heat it, apply some vise grips and twist. It should hopefully come out. If it snaps (which mine did) you'll have to weld some nuts to whatever bit is left and use an extended length wrench to get it out. It took 2 weldments to get that stud out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MariaManche Posted September 4 Author Share Posted September 4 6 hours ago, Salvagedcircuit said: That is an important stud that holds in the seat. To remove it, apply some PB blaster, grab a map torch, heat it, apply some vise grips and twist. It should hopefully come out. If it snaps (which mine did) you'll have to weld some nuts to whatever bit is left and use an extended length wrench to get it out. It took 2 weldments to get that stud out. Thanks for the advice! I cleaned up the stud with a wire brush on a die grinder and sprayed a liberal amount of Kroil on the top and bottom side. I’ll see if she breaks tomorrow after work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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