robfg67 Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 The transmission is leaking gear lubricant from the bolt that is directly accross from the oil pan drain plug. It appears to be a 13MM bolt head. The bolt has a 13MM head, is about 1/2 inch long, a pointed tip, and it cannot be tightened. I backed the bolt off and there were some metal shavings around it. I have two questions! Does this sound like the correct bolt-I would think that the bolt would have a flat or butt end on it and not a pointed tip. Also, would thread lock or something similar applied to the bolt allow it to be tightened to a degree where I can get the drop leak stopped? Lastly, if it needs to be tapped, does anyone know what size tap I would need? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offroader461 Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 I'm kinda lost...can you take a pic of where its leaking from?? if its the bolt I'm thinking of thats there to hold on the flywheel shield...i don't even have a bolt in there...sounds more like a front seal on the input of the trans is leaking... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robfg67 Posted December 13, 2007 Author Share Posted December 13, 2007 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offroader461 Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 yea mine doesnt even have a bolt there...thats just to hold the shield on to protect the clutch and flywheel...honestly sound more like a front seal on the trans....are you sure its gear fluid...mine was dripping from there too and when i replaced the rear main seal it stopped Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robfg67 Posted December 14, 2007 Author Share Posted December 14, 2007 How involved is it to replace the rear main seal? I guess if I am asking the question (and have never done it before) it is probably over my head! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offroader461 Posted December 14, 2007 Share Posted December 14, 2007 well mine was simple... drained the oil, removed the starter(disconnect battery first!), then drop the oil pan, remove the main cap and replace the seal...its a 2 piece and i used a wood punch to remove the upper portion...just don't nick that crank or you will have some problems...then put it all back together.... i just followed my Haynes and it went smoothly..got it my first try then tackled all the other leaks such as Valve cover, and Oil filter o-rings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robfg67 Posted December 14, 2007 Author Share Posted December 14, 2007 Thanks, this sounds like my next project! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robfg67 Posted December 14, 2007 Author Share Posted December 14, 2007 Is a nail punch the same thing asa wood punch? Where did you buy your seal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted December 14, 2007 Share Posted December 14, 2007 Is a nail punch the same thing asa wood punch? Where did you buy your seal? No a nail punch is made of metal. you need something thats softer than the crank, ie wood, plastic, or brass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted December 14, 2007 Share Posted December 14, 2007 Is a nail punch the same thing asa wood punch? Where did you buy your seal? No a nail punch is made of metal. you need something thats softer than the crank, ie wood, plastic, or brass. napa, oreilly's, advance... any of em when buying oil pan gaskets get the one for a 95 cherokee 4.0 (it'll be a one peice gasket that is MUCH easier to deal with and make seal up.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pathkiller Posted December 15, 2007 Share Posted December 15, 2007 No offense, but from the nature of your question I think the rear main seal is beyond your skill level. It can be a tricky job and you should have the correct tools to do it right (do you have a torque wrench?). If you decide to try it, get a repair manual that shows photos and step by step instructions and allow yourself plenty of time for the job. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted December 15, 2007 Share Posted December 15, 2007 It's not uncommon for the valve cover gasket to be leaking down the back of the engine and look like a leaky rear main seal. You might want to start with that one since it's way easier. :D Also, it took me 5 tries to get the rear main seal to stop leaking. Plenty of stuff can go wrong. :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted December 16, 2007 Share Posted December 16, 2007 Oring from the oil filter to block adapter is another leaky place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robfg67 Posted December 16, 2007 Author Share Posted December 16, 2007 Thanks for the input-I am definitely a novice when it comes to these types of repairs. I will clean the old oil off the bottom of the engine and transmission first. This should help me more easily identify the source of the leak. This is an odd leak because it does not leak every day. I can go 3 days between leaking and then it will drop 2-3 ounces on the garage floor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted December 16, 2007 Share Posted December 16, 2007 If the fluid appears to be a more clear looking fluid leaking (like gear oil) it may be the slave cylinder leaking. That is my problem right now as I have to keep adding brake fluid to the master cylinder every 2-3 days :roll: . That is getting fixed tomorrow as it is getting a new clutch, slave cylinder, rear main, tranny mount and oil pan gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
500 MJ Posted December 16, 2007 Share Posted December 16, 2007 Oring from the oil filter to block adapter is another leaky place. X2, check this out first. A set of o-rings,(which you have to keep so you can take them in for sizing reference and buy them from the "bulk" box, only ran me $1.37 and about an hours worth of work including the drive to the parts store...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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