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Won't stay running after AX 15 swap


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Of course.

Harmless bull snakes aka gopher snakes. 

Rule of thumb is if they act pissy, leave them alone or just scoot them out of the road.

If not pissy, pick em up!!

Can you imagine how difficult it is to steer a vehicle with one of those guys wrapped around your arm on the way home?

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In other news, the 4x4 shop finished the driveshaft. Needed to remove about 1" due to the AX-15 and transfer case being slightly longer. Came back looking good. I would have been happy with getting the rusted driveshaft back, but they replaced the U-joints, cleaned it up, and painted it. It will be the nicest thing on the Comanche. Course I had to pay for those extras...

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  • 2 weeks later...

My sons did the work, but here's the report. Took the week off to work on the Comanche with my sons. They figured this out yesterday.

 

Replaced the CPS with no change. Just installing the cheap, poorly constructed CPS was an ordeal...

 

Purchased and was prepared to install a new ignition cylinder since the key worked intermittently. Took the steering column apart and adjusted the previously installed ignition switch and that solved that issue.

 

Found that jumping a relay solved the issue of getting the fuel pump to run when the key was in the on position. Ended up permanently jumping the relay. So the fuel pump now runs whenever the key is in the on position. 

 

Bottom line, back to having a running Comanche!

 

 

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With this setup it looks like your running Fuel Pump Motor current and anything else on Fusible Link G, through the IGN SW. Might be OK, but then again, it might not. Check Splice_E (Engine Control Harness).

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  • 2 years later...

Dusting off this oldie. Last week I was driving the MJ and my boot hooked on a wire and pulled it out cutting off the fuel supply. When I rolled to a stop I found the wire in the first picture dangling at my feet. Immediately figuring this was a jury rigged I jammed this blade into the fuse panel in the "BATT" slot which got me home. Had to pull it again once I got home of course to keep it from draining the battery.

 

Haven't been driving it since, but today I got under the dash and 1) tried to get it back to usable and 2) figure out what was going on. This may be our problem dating all the way back to the start of this post.

 

Digging around, I found that this orange wire from the first photo is jumpered from a harness above the fuse panel (see the second photo - sorry it's blurry)

 

For today I just fixed it well enough to work and stuck the spade connector at the end of the orange wire into the rear wiper slot. So the fuel pump runs continuously when the key is in the on position, which is how it was before my boot toe snagged the wire.

 

Seems that this is a hack fix that was maybe meant to bypass the emergency fuel shut off?

 

Will appreciate some suggestions on how to fix this properly.

 

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6 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said:

So the fuel sending unit wire for the pump got hooked and ripped? 

Yes, the orangeish jumper wire in the first photo snagged and was pulled out. That wire comes from the cut orange wire in the second photo. That "Y" leads to the spade connector in the first photo. The crimp connectors and shrink tube connectors make it appear to be a hack job. 

 

You are saying the spade connector should plug in under the kick-plate on the side wall by the hood release latch?

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