Steering Box Wizards Come In Here--UPDATE IN NEW POST

[AZJeff]

THIS IS A LONG POST, BUT I HAVE TO GIVE YOU GUYS ALL THE DETAILS SO I CAN GET GOOD INPUT FROM THE TEAM.

 

FIRST, SOME BACKGROUND:

About 2 years ago, I installed a remanufactured steering box from Rock Auto (AC-Delco branded), to replace the OE box that the PO had trashed by gross misadjustments.  All was well with the replacement for about a year, until I noticed a crack in the frame radiating out from the front/upper mounting bolt for the box on the outside of the frame.  To address this, I did the following:

 

1.   I removed the box, welded in a doubler plate on the top of the frame rail above the box.  (There was a small older crack that had been previously repaired poorly).  

2.  I welded in custom made 1 inch diameter steel tubular spacer that goes across the inside of the frame where the upper front bolt was located.  This replaced the failed sheet metal spacer the Jeep spot welded in from the factory.

3.  I welded in a 2 inch wide doubler plate on the outside of the frame where the upper front bolt goes that extends 5 inches forward and back of that hole.  This was to reinforce the area where the bolt hole was cracked.

4.  I added a reinforcement bracket from 1.5 inch angle that attaches to the front crossmember from side to side to further stiffen the crossment and tie the two frame rails better at the front end.

5.  I added in a pair of the OEM "tow hook reinforcement" angle brackets that tie the front side of the front crossmember to the "horns" of the frame rails where the bumper mounts.

6.  I replaced the die cast aluminum steering box spacer with a welded steel type.

 

I then added in a RockHard bumper, and modified the driver's side mounting arm so that it extends past the lower two steering gear mounting bolts.  (This required longer bolts for the steering gear box, so I got some grade 8 bolts and hardened washers to attach the box back to the frame.)

 

So when my steering box is bolted up, it has an added layer of steel on the outside of the frame, as well as the benefit of the steel spacer between the box and the frame, and all of the holes have proper reinforcement inside the frame "box" to keep it from collapsing now.  In addition, the bumper makes the front two 'horns' of the frame rails very rigidly connected.

 

THE PROBLEM:

All was good with my repairs and improvements until about 2 months ago.  At that time, I started noticing that there was a "creaking" noise in the front end, but only when I turned slowly LEFT from center, and only when the vehicle was warmed up.  From cold, there was no noise.  The sound was not heard at anything except parking lot speeds, and the vehicle steers and tracks very normally.

 

MY EXAMINATION

I did a bunch of visual examination with everything still installed, and the creaking seemed to be coming from the steering box proper.  (Track bar and it's mount are both good JKS parts.)  The drag link end at the steering box is new, and without play.

 

I then removed the steering box, and cleaned the frame thoroughly, and inspected with a bright flashlight all four sides of the frame for cracks, and found nothing.  I checked the steering box proper for smooth operation on the bench, and found nothing. 

 

WHERE IT STANDS NOW.

I reinstalled everything, and replaced both power steering hoses, since they were both leaking.   (I used Edelmann brand hoses.)

 

Now the creak is more noticeable than ever, and the brand new high pressure hose is leaking where it enters the steering box. (And I did use a new o-ring when I installed it!)  The creak is DEFINITELY right around the steering box, and I can feel a slight vibration when the creak occurs if I place my hand on the box or the frame adjacent to the box.

 

ONE LAST THING:

When I have my wife turn the steering wheel from lock to lock with the engine on (and axle on jack stands), the steering box attempts to twist the frame when the drag link reaches the end of it's travel when turning left.  The knuckle hits the stop bolt, but the steering gear still can move a bit further, and the power assist tries to pull the drag link further, and in doing so, is twisting the entire frame slightly.

 

I am at my wits end.   So I need some input from experts here.

 

1.   Why would a new hose leak on the fitting at the box?  (Crack in steering box through threaded hole for fitting?)

2.  Why is the steering box still trying to move when the knuckle hits the stop bolt?  I cannot imagine the box twisting the frame was part of the design intent of the XJ/MJ platform.

3.  And what is making the creaking sound?

 

 

[cruiser54]

Here's a possibility on a creaking sound in that area.

 

The track bar mounting bracket at the left frame rail can move if the bolts aren't real tight. .

BTW, the factory torque spec was too low. Hope this helps. 

[AZJeff]

I don't think it's a track bar issue.   I have an aftermarket bracket from Rubicon Express, and I used a long 1/2" drive breaker bar with a "torque multiplier" tube slipped over the handle to tighten the mounting bolts.  They are WELL over 100 ft-lbs now.

 

[Eagle]

18 hours ago, AZJeff said:

ONE LAST THING:

When I have my wife turn the steering wheel from lock to lock with the engine on (and axle on jack stands), the steering box attempts to twist the frame when the drag link reaches the end of it's travel when turning left.  The knuckle hits the stop bolt, but the steering gear still can move a bit further, and the power assist tries to pull the drag link further, and in doing so, is twisting the entire frame slightly.

 

2.  Why is the steering box still trying to move when the knuckle hits the stop bolt?  I cannot imagine the box twisting the frame was part of the design intent of the XJ/MJ platform.

 

 

The steering stop stops the steering travel before the internal limits of the box are reached in order to prevent damage to the box. The simple answer is: when you hit the stops, don't try to turn any farther.

[AZJeff]

3 hours ago, Eagle said:

 

The steering stop stops the steering travel before the internal limits of the box are reached in order to prevent damage to the box. The simple answer is: when you hit the stops, don't try to turn any farther.

Hmm....that is sort of what I would expect.  But the input shaft will turn further than the stop on left turns, but not on right turns.   Yet, from what I can determine, the stop screws on the knuckles are both even.  So I wonder if the box is misassembled?  (It is a reman, as I noted earlier.)

 

The one thing I am still pondering is why the box has started leaking.  Initial in-car inspection seemed to suggest a leak at the high pressure hose into the box.   I removed the box, and hosed it down with brake-cleaner.  (Purging the oil on the bench is one VERY messy task, as you can imagine.)   I inspected everything, and saw nothing obvious.   Even after I installed new hoses and o-rings, the box is leaking around the high pressure port.   No leaks on the pitman shaft, nor on the input shaft.   I am thinking the box has something wonky inside it causing the leak.

[Andy in Pa]

Assuming the steering box is good (and honestly I would replace it since you can't get it to stop leaking at this point) there are some very stout steering box bracing kits out there.  I would recommend looking at www.Ironman4x4fab.com steering box brace.  I just put one of these on my daughters MJ, and honestly there is no way the steering box CAN move at all at this point.  It can be tough to put on if the truck has been hit or tweaked in the front at all.  I think Andy the owner actually has a video of the install on the website right now.  If you have creaks you can't find, then I highly recommend this kit.  

[AZJeff]

5 hours ago, Andy in Pa said:

Assuming the steering box is good (and honestly I would replace it since you can't get it to stop leaking at this point) there are some very stout steering box bracing kits out there.  I would recommend looking at www.Ironman4x4fab.com steering box brace.  I just put one of these on my daughters MJ, and honestly there is no way the steering box CAN move at all at this point.  It can be tough to put on if the truck has been hit or tweaked in the front at all.  I think Andy the owner actually has a video of the install on the website right now.  If you have creaks you can't find, then I highly recommend this kit.  

Thanks, I will investigate them.

 

[ghetdjc320]

13 hours ago, Andy in Pa said:

Assuming the steering box is good (and honestly I would replace it since you can't get it to stop leaking at this point) there are some very stout steering box bracing kits out there.  I would recommend looking at www.Ironman4x4fab.com steering box brace.  I just put one of these on my daughters MJ, and honestly there is no way the steering box CAN move at all at this point.  It can be tough to put on if the truck has been hit or tweaked in the front at all.  I think Andy the owner actually has a video of the install on the website right now.  If you have creaks you can't find, then I highly recommend this kit.  

X2

 

I have this kit along with their track bar system with cross brace. Very high quality parts and it will eliminate any play.

[Jesse J]

I won an MORE steering brace at the takeover and I am super excited to put it on the jeep. Seems like a quality product

[gogmorgo]

I won’t profess to be an expert on the Saginaw box by any means, but the “creaking” noise could be an internal hydraulic leak.
If it was assembled wrong, I think it would be noticeable. You’d have a lot more travel from centre in one direction than the other. There’s only three teeth on the sector shaft, so being out by a tooth is a big deal. I would think any other assembly errors would most likely lead to the box binding up, or losing power assist.

[knever3]

If you have more travel in one direction than another your steering wheel can be removed and put on wherever center is.  There is no alignment spline for it.  If your steering linkage was adjusted to your steering wheel placement then that can be resolved.  I hear you have a power assist ram if I read your post correctly?  If that is the case you have way more force than the factory intended anyway which would exacerbate the problem.  Center the steering between turns then look at your wheel in relation.   

[AZJeff]

Here is a follow up to my steering box issues, for those of you who are interested.

 

The remanufactured box I installed in my MJ 30 months ago was defective.  Unfortunately, the warranty from Rock Auto was for 24 months.

 

I purchased a NEW box (ouch), and I installed that, along with designing and fabricating a steering box brace similar to, but slightly simpler than, the one offered by Ironman4x4Fab.com

 

The end result is that the Jeep steers like a new vehicle.  It's smooth and sensitive, and best of all, no creaking/groaning sounds!